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Thread: Wood Hardener

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Default Wood Hardener

    Hi,
    I'm looking for some wood hardener to go onto some small patches of wet rot. I've cured the leak but need something to firm up the surface prior to filling and painting. HAs anyone used or know about any types and where to get them?
    Thanks Guys & Gals
    Help ma boab, the bairns goat it awe wrang!

  2. #2
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    Hootsman,

    Will the repair be visible or hidden?

    What sizes are the spoilt timber that you are trying to fix?

    Wall? Floor? Structural?

    Across boards or a single piece?
    - Wood Borer

  3. #3
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    It's small patches on a window sill that need toughening up.
    Help ma boab, the bairns goat it awe wrang!

  4. #4
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    try what i think is called " turbo's builders bog" or something like that. Any good hardware store will have. Once set you can saw, carve, screw, nail etc with it. should do the trick

  5. #5
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    My missus firms up my wood bits, no worrys.


    Al

  6. #6

    Default

    First thing would be to apply an antifungal agent and let it thourghly dry for a few days. Then I'd mix up some fast curing epoxy and thin it down with acetone and paint it onto the affected area. Thin it down enough so that it will easily be absorbed by the wood and apply lots. Once fully cured I would sand and fill voids with automotive bondo.

  7. #7
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    Mathew is close to my solution, but WRONG regarding the epoxy!

    If you haven't killed the damp, I'd back the epoxy treatment, except that polyester won't stick to it so "Bondo" won't work!

    If using epoxy, DON'T dilute it with acetone, use the proprietry diluent for the brand of epoxy, and a timber preservative additive. All major manufacturer's have them, my experience is with BoatCrafts' TPRD (timber preservative reactive diluant). Having said all that, I think it's overkill.

    IF YOU HAVE KILLED THE LEAK :

    Dig out all the soft stuff!

    Killing the fungus is a "by the book" treatment. IF you have truly killed the leak, AND you have dug out all the soft timber, you PROBABLY won't have a problem.

    Fill with "Builder's Bog" (made by the Plastibond mob and sold in hardware stores). This is a purpose built version of car bog (Bondo), and cheaper last time I did the comparison.

    Cheers,

    P

  8. #8
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    I think what midge is saying ( very kindly ) that you can't relably "harden up" rotted wood you need to grind it out & fill it with something after killing the rot.
    I'd certainly second the motion.
    An other option is to cut out sections with a chisel or whatever & glue in small sections of timber shaped to fit.
    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman
    I think what midge is saying ( very kindly ) that you can't relably "harden up" rotted wood you need to grind it out & fill it with something after killing the rot.
    I'd certainly second the motion.
    An other option is to cut out sections with a chisel or whatever & glue in small sections of timber shaped to fit.
    cheers
    Hmmm... I can't for the life of me work out what I was saying either, but it was something like that!

    And glueing in the timber bit is soooo woodworky too Soundy!!

    Cheers,

    P

  10. #10
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    Dec 2004
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    Talking

    Hmm,
    All sound advice guys. There appears to be no fungus, growth or spores just soft wood. I've dug most of it out. The reason I was asking about hardener was that in the collins DIY manual (my new bible since becoming a home owner) goes through the process of wet rot and recommends using said hardener on the wood. It doesnt name a brand though. I thought of going to bunnies and asking for some wood hardener but feared I would be sent to a newsagent or servo
    Help ma boab, the bairns goat it awe wrang!

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