downlights

[Ashore]

Put a new kitchen in 8 yrs ago 6 downlights in ceeling and 3 under benchtops
benchtop ones are 19mm thick with transformers on top of cupboard Have only blown 3 of ceiling lamps in 8 yrs
Only traps I found by asking around were
Good venterlation around transformers (two story homes appear to suffer with down lights on lower floor) and mount them verticle from the bottom
Always use sealed lamps ie with cover over lens the open ones are cheeper but dont last
Dont fit them too high "Cathederal celings as in the better fittings you need to un screw them with screwdriver if you can't get at them from above can be un-nerving 20 foot up on top of a ladder"
Buy good quality




He who dies with the most toys is nonetheless dead.

[doug1]

Cassandra you can get very small compact flouresant lammpsto suit down light fittings standard lamps (ES, BC ,SBC, candle etc) these dont have the heat load of halogen but give the light output,these lamps I have only seen at specialist lighting shops to date. They are very small. Also the small flouro lamps (8W, 13W) may also be better for cupboard use than a spot light.

[kiwigeo]

We found in hot weather the transformers would switch-off with the heat overload cutoff and take 15 minutes to cool down and come back on..... again the newer more expensive models are more stable.

If a halogen is flicking off during hot weather it pays to check that there isnt ceiling insulation lying over the transformer...had two halogens in my dining room doing just this. Moved insulation clear of the transformers and the problem was solved.

Agree with you on the stability of the more expensive models...

[Metung]

Another quirk of 12v downlights - I had some 240v halogens that were hopless and replaced them with 12v, electronic transformer ones, 2 globes off each transformer. The rest of the house has 12v, ironcore transformer, downlights. Anyway SWMBO turned the telly on and complained about snowy reception. Turned the new lights off and the problem diapeared. "##!!" I thought to myself, I'm going to have to replace them again. The channel was changed from 2 to one of the commercial channels later on and there was no problem. Checked all the other channels and they were OK too. SWMBO said that she could put up with the interference on 2 so I'm off the hook and I wouldn't trade her in for quids.

[Iain]

Metung, before you give up here are three options so you can receive ABC 2.
#1. Get a digital set top box.
#2. Replace what is probably crap coax with RG6 Quad shield including flylead from wall to TV.
#3. Get a flylead with a ferrite sleeve either end.
Work from #3 to #1 as this is the cheapest order.
ABC digital is Channel 6 and employs a completely different technology to analogue TV, you cannot get interference.
50Hz radiation is a common problem with low end TV reception, we had the same problem with 3 phase radiation and went digital to overcome the problem.
Feel sorry for the poor buggers in Mt Gambier who still have channel 0.

[soundman]

If you are getting interfeerance on channel 2 it is likely to be comming from a swithmode (electronic) transformer. Particularly if it looks more like rain than snow ( big dots regular pattern).
Change to old style iron core transformers should solve the problem.
Saw this sort of thing a couple of times when I was in the antenna business. Actual 50Hz wont touch ch2 or any other TV reception there has to be some other nastyness involved, like a switchmode supply, arcing contact or similar.
Yess ch2 is more prone to 50Hz "related" nasties. Chase the nasties.

cheers

[hogradys]

Hi everyone,
Love your forum. I have 8 downlights installed in a combined lounge/dining/ kitchen with 12ft ceilings. I built the place 10 years ago and my first downlight has failed. I thought it would be simple to change but no. The lights are flush with the ceiling (ie no raised areas to twist). The 3 kitchen lights have had their protective glass broken but the lounge lights remain covered. All have separate transformers and no dimmers. I recently installed insulation in the roof and have left room around the transformers and lights for ventilation.
I cannot work out how to change the lamp. The housing containing the bulb appears to be bigger than the circular rim. I can push the bulb housing up (appears to be spring loaded). The existing bulb is a 12V/50W/36deg. I can't twist anything as there are no "grip" areas. Sorry for not knowing the terminology. Please help as I'm thinking of clling a sparky and geting them all ripped out after reading some of the posts on this thread.
Regards,
Ho

[Master Splinter]

Trivia time for downlight people...

That buzzing sound you hear from transformers is magnetostriction - the slight change in length of the iron laminations as they become magnetised. It's a 100Hz hum.

At least wood doesn't change size that quickly.

[baltic]

Hi all,
what a big thread, got lots of ideas and took on board lots of advise. I would like to share with you my lights that I installed with the help of a qualified sparky,
I decided to use down lights on a trapeze line, three runs, a total of 24 lights, that lights a 55 square meter area. I think they work well, all fitted with dimmers. Each trapeze is juiced up with a 400 watt transformer.

I also installed quality "stainless steel up lights", and yes they have expensive $25/LED glob lights in them, so as not to burn your toes!!
I hope that it will not be a full time job changing bulbs!!

Cheers,
Gary.