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  1. #1
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    Jun 2005
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    melbourne
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    Question two pac finish and stain

    Hi
    Does any one know if you can apply a two pac finish on a stained piece of timber? I have asked 6 people with wood work experience. 4 told me it will work, 2 said it wont work due to the two pac lifting up the stain from the timber. Ive asked someone that actually works in the paint shop and they said you cant but then i get people saying they have tried it with fantastic results!

    Can someone please put an end to this argument?

    cheers

    joseph

  2. #2
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    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    If you apply a sealer coat of shellac over the stain and let it cure the 2 pac should be quite ok over the shellac.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  3. #3
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    Jun 2005
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    melbourne
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    Hi Bob,
    so just a normal clear sealer will do the job? after that i can apply the two pac finish?
    cheers

  4. #4
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    Use shellac as the sealer and apply 2pac over it.
    Orange shellac mau alter the stain color slightly if its a light color.
    White shellac is water clear.
    I usually use orange shellac as it gives a traditional french polish type patina to the finish.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #5
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    Feb 2005
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    Hi Joseph,

    2-pac clear Polyurethane is fine over spirit and turp's based stains. You can even add a little stain to the 2-pac for toning. Just make sure to leave the recommended time for the stain to dry before applying your finish. I even steer way clear of sealer's for clear coat's because they impart a cloudy hue to the colour of the stain, or the natural colours of the timber. I have just done what you are talking about recently, see here..
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=17095
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
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    Brisbane, Qld.
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    579

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    From a professional perspective, theres no worries at all mate!

    Though it does depend on what type of stain your using and application technique of the finish. But then just about all finish's will pull the stain if applied by rag and sometimes brush (dependant on skill).

    So having done this basically on a daily routine for over 10yrs I think you'll be alright. I was using NGR stain with Acid Cat laquers and also poly-u's etc.

    If using 2-pac theres no need to use shellac as a sealer, waste of time in my opinion and so is using sanding sealer dependant on the timber species. Most sanding sealers are just the top coat with talc (more to it chemically though, I think) added to aid in sanding and grainfilling properties.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    75
    Posts
    9,670

    Default

    Use water dye with no problem. It will change the colour of the timber without muddying the grain and when dry is 100% compatible with any finish that's not water based.

    If using shellac as a base use dewaxed white shellac as the wax in regular shellac can cause problems and down the track may even allow the finish to delaminate. Regular shellac will also darken the stain quite considerably as echidna said.

    Listen to Shane, the voice of experience when it comes to the 2 pac stuff.

    Cheers - Neil

  8. #8
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    Feb 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane Watson
    From a professional perspective, theres no worries at all mate!

    Though it does depend on what type of stain your using and application technique of the finish. But then just about all finish's will pull the stain if applied by rag and sometimes brush (dependant on skill).

    So having done this basically on a daily routine for over 10yrs I think you'll be alright. I was using NGR stain with Acid Cat laquers and also poly-u's etc.

    If using 2-pac theres no need to use shellac as a sealer, waste of time in my opinion and so is using sanding sealer dependant on the timber species. Most sanding sealers are just the top coat with talc (more to it chemically though, I think) added to aid in sanding and grainfilling properties.
    Bang on Shane! I once saw a job that was European Beech veneer, that was to be finished with Full gloss Mirotone 2-pac poly. About 3 coat's of sealer was applied, and when sanding back for smooth grain-filled finish.....oops, too far and through to veneer in a few small patches. Nothing was thought of it until final gloss coat's were applied and big clear patch's appeared, due to the milky sealer being removed......very ugly!
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    39

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    Thanks for the help guys I think i will do what Shane mentioned and not apply a sealer. Most people i know say its a waste of time.

    Thanks again

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