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Thread: Finishing a chopping board?
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22nd October 2012, 09:17 PM #16
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22nd October 2012, 09:59 PM #17
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- Mosgiel New Zealand
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I have one made of rimu 13yrs old its had a couple of resands and a good coat of canola oil rice brand is ok as well dont use an oil like olive as it can go rancid and taint the food ,U beaut food safe should be ok. In my opinion i woulnt fill it get another piece and make somthing ellse with the cracked piece but thats just me
Cheers Ian
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5th November 2012, 01:55 PM #18
Member
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- Jul 2008
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- Melbourne
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Be aware that detergent will disperse oil quite effectively so if you coat your board with parafin oil or similar you can expect it to disappear after washing it in the sink. And you will need to wash your board if you are using it to chop meat. I have used parafin oil and it is safe and looks good, but only until you wash the board! I don't bother with the oil now now and the board looks fine. It is a chopping board so cuts and marks are to be expected, and you can naturally expect any finish you have applied to be degraded accordingly.
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5th November 2012, 05:23 PM #19
I had found a US uni did some tests and they basically found mineral oil or paraffin oil kills the timbers natural antibacterial properties. It is posted on the forums somewhere here.
Cheers
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23rd December 2012, 06:10 AM #20
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- Dec 2008
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- Atlantic, Iowa, USA
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Cabot 8099 Tung Oi
Does anyone know if Cabot 8099 tung oil is food safe. I have just been requested to make a cheese board for Christmas Eve.
I have a scrap of walnut to start with.
Thanks,
Nigel.
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23rd December 2012, 07:52 AM #21
Hi
Nigel and welcome,
So it's the 22nd December there right?
You would be better to use a product which says "Pure Tung Oil" or "Pure China Wood Oil."
Liberon make pure Tung Oil. You would be best to dilute it down 1:2 with White spirits then apply.
If you can use this method, you will have a dry food safe oiled surface by 12/24.
If you just apply it then let it dry, it may not be food safe come Christmas eve. In this situation, it needs at least 48 hours to cure and become food safe.
Regards and Happy Holidays,
Rob
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26th December 2012, 01:47 PM #22
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- Mount druitt
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I don't know what equipment you have in your shed,but if you have a router can you cut out the cracked section out say with a square trench cut bit, and then cut a piece from one of the slabs that are cracked all the way through,if you cut it a bit oversize you could sand it to a tight fit and glue it into place.You may be able to fit it in such a way that it would be a highlight
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27th December 2012, 10:53 AM #23
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foodsafe finishes.
Hello,
The foodsafe finish - woodwipe - is a citrus and nut oil base. If people have nut allergies it could be a problem.
Having said that it is really good. The health safe finish is paraffin oil (medical standard) bought for a few dollars
at your local chemist. Sometimes referred to as mineral oil. About every 6 months or so I touch up our chopping boards and wooden utensils with it.
It is a fail safe and does not have the pungent smell of woodwipe. The problem with Tung Oil is that you have to make sure that it is
100% pure. If it has additives then maybe it isnt foodsafe. Drillit.
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3rd January 2013, 11:25 PM #24
There are many alternatives form nothing upwards
I've been making cutting boards and cheese plates for some years and the better they look at the start the more the receiver/buyer wants them to stay that way. Doing nothing is a good option and the board will age gracefully with use.
If you or the owner want the board to continue to look good and be safe there are some simple rules/options. Never cut meat on the same board as anything else. Sterilise the board from time to time by washing in warm soapy water then apply a layer of salt, rub it in and leave it for a while. Rinse the salt out. Leave to completely dry before use.
I always oil my boards. I have used Woodwipe mentioned elsewhere - its good (except for the nut issue). Howards sells "Butchers Block Oil" - also good. I now use Kunos Oil,a available from Natural eco paints, oils & products, healthy choice to acrylic & polyurethane - Livos Australia or if you live in or near Canberra they sell it in small jars at the Bungendore Woodworks. Easy to use and completely food safe and can add a shine to the new bord that other oils will not match. Mineral oil is also good, from your chemist or from U-beut. Not expensive and is safe.
The one thing I do tell my customers is not to re-oil with any vegetable/olive oil except grapeseed oil. My research cautioned that these oils can become rancid over time.
Never had a complaint.
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4th January 2013, 09:52 AM #25
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- shoalhaven n.s.w
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hi all I do a few chopping boards this is what I use gluing titebond with the blue label as its food safe and butchers block conditioner as its meat safe, and food safe plus on wooden spoons
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