Results 16 to 30 of 53
-
2nd August 2012, 06:51 PM #16Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Alright, I'm nearly there, only few more questions:
Brushes ? What sort of brushes should I use? What sort of quality? Would a 2 inch brush be too big ?
-
3rd August 2012, 09:20 AM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 53
A nice soft one. and the best quality brushes you can afford! But dont fly to Siberia in search of a sable to use,...you probably dont need to go to that level!
I have used a 2 inch brush before, and got good results. You may need to rub it down with 0000 grade steel wool between coats to remove any flaws or excessive build up. Take it slow and dont try and apply too much or too many coats at once.
-
3rd August 2012, 03:02 PM #18Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Vielen Dank Chief012 . I purchased a 2 inch purdy brush today, which seem to be of good quality (nice and soft). The next step is to order the white shellac (can only get it over the internet/U-beaut). But I'm not in a hurry, still have to do some cleaning/sanding on the cupboard before I can apply the shellac. Is there a trick to 'extend' the drying time of the metho/shellac mixture(adding something) to it) ?
-
3rd August 2012, 08:07 PM #19Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Ahh, just read that nylon brushes are not recommended for shellac.
Hmm, the brush I bought is a nylon/polyester blend (Purdy 2" XL-Sprig). Any thoughts ?
-
3rd August 2012, 08:53 PM #20
The speccy grain you're seeing there is medullary rays from the quartersawn cut, not fiddleback figure. Very nice Silky.
-
3rd August 2012, 11:19 PM #21Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 49
i would have thought that using a rubber with simple straight strokes might be the best approach. Will save having to think about brush stroke marks.
-
5th August 2012, 02:07 PM #22Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Rubbing, using a pad, might be a bit difficult, considering the groves, curves ect.(see photo). Not sure myself what's the best approach.
-
5th August 2012, 02:09 PM #23Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Thanks mic-d for your comment. Interesting, didn't know that.
-
6th August 2012, 10:45 AM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 53
Considering the size of the wardrobe it would not be a quick job however I would use a "wad" or rubber to apply the shellac. It would be a ok on the curves and grooves, and there has been furniture finished for centuries with this method.
There are a few ways to achieve a similar result, depends which one you are comfortable with.
I dont know of any way to extend the drying time. My experience is that the weaker the mixture, ie more metho, the easier it is to apply as it is thinner and less chance of uneven build up. Hope this helps
-
7th August 2012, 04:38 PM #25Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Thanks Chief012. What is a 'wad' or a rubber. Is there a difference between them ?
-
7th August 2012, 05:31 PM #26Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 53
Wad or rubber is the same thing, basically it's the device that applies the shellac to the furniture. I just did a quick google and this is a reasonable summation:
"A very good one is from a piece of cotton t-shirt or similar material and a good healthy wad of gauze. Wad the gauze into a ball about the size of a walnut and put it inside the t-shirt material and fold the sides and corners up to make a nice handle. The pad is savable and reusable as long as it's kept sealed in a jar with a tight lid. If it gets left out and dries it should be thrown away though and a new pad made."
-
8th August 2012, 11:16 AM #27Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
Ahh, excellent, thank you Chief012. Now, waiting for the white shellac to arrive and then off it goes...rub-rub, pad-pad
-
8th August 2012, 12:28 PM #28Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 53
Photos photos photos!
-
8th August 2012, 05:42 PM #29Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 29
I certainly will.
BTW did you fill the pores and grain of the wood with pumice powder after the first application of shellac ? Perhaps it depends on the sort of wood..... silky oak doesn't appear very porous and might not this sort of 'pre treatment'.
-
8th August 2012, 05:57 PM #30Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 53
Excellent!
I have never used pumice as I have never done what I would consider to be "French polishing" I have only ever applied shellac and then wax polished it or applied shellac and a wipe on polly over the top. One day I would like to learn though!
Good luck
Similar Threads
-
Restoration - Old Silky Oak Desk
By stephenoutram in forum RESTORATIONReplies: 2Last Post: 25th April 2012, 04:29 PM -
Antique? Wardrobe/Dresser Restoration
By young 'un in forum RESTORATIONReplies: 4Last Post: 4th September 2011, 10:30 PM -
Silky Oak Wardrobe Restoration Question
By Earthling#44-9a in forum RESTORATIONReplies: 8Last Post: 12th July 2010, 09:47 PM -
silky oak table restoration WIP
By nick_b00 in forum FINISHINGReplies: 9Last Post: 13th June 2007, 09:04 AM -
latest silky oak restoration
By womble in forum FINISHINGReplies: 13Last Post: 20th March 2006, 08:04 PM
Bookmarks