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Thread: Help - Tassie Oak
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21st May 2005, 05:07 PM #1
Help - Tassie Oak
I have finished 'building' a tassie oak step stool, and am about to start applying the finish. I was going to use a hand rubbed tung oil finish, rubbing with 0000 between coats, but I seem to remember reading somewhere that steel wool will leave small amounts of metal in the grain of tassie oak, which will spoil the finish, is this true ?
I have tried searching the forum, but have not been able to find any reference to this.
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21st May 2005, 06:19 PM #2
Soren,
When you open the ubeaut home page next, click on the products link.
Under the link to traditional wax read the part titled "Raw Timber 2".
This is about wax but mentions using steel wool on open pored timber, I hope it helps.
Jack."There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it's all dark."
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21st May 2005, 06:32 PM #3
Why not try the wipe-on poly Don used on his ? Looks great, and is very hardy, which you'll need since it's going to get stepped on.
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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21st May 2005, 07:11 PM #4
Poly
Will most likely use some poly after the tung oil has done its trick
Thanks Jack, read it, but I am sure I have read somewhere else that the steel wool actually leaves small bits of metal in the pores, and that these bits of metal eventually rust spoiling the finish, but I am not sure if that is true.
I think I better stick to a 3M scourer between coats
thanks again
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21st May 2005, 07:40 PM #5
Soren,
You don't use steel wool on raw surfaces or between coats of water based finishes. Once the surface has been oiled it should be okay to use the steelwool however the scourer is just as good.
Peter.
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21st May 2005, 09:35 PM #6
Thanks Peter
I've got the 0000 so I might give it a try on a test piece, after a couple of coats of tung oil, and see how it turns out, before tackling the stepping stool.
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21st May 2005, 09:41 PM #7
Remember ther is a difference between the domestic scourers and the commercial "graded" scothcbrites.
The commercial ones are bigger & cheaper if you buy them in the right place.
The domestic ones still work.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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25th May 2005, 04:07 PM #8
Make sure that the steel wool is free of any oil which won't do any good to your surface.
Some steel wools are sold specifically for your purpose. Lee Valley may show it in their cataloge.
If there is any porosity in the grain the steel wool will penetrate and catch in the grain and small pieces of the wool will remain.Keep flying until every bit falls off.
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26th May 2005, 02:43 PM #9
Yes, Tassie Oak is coarse grained often and you will leave steel wool behind. Why not use 800 or 1200 W&D?
Cheers, Ern
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26th May 2005, 05:20 PM #10Originally Posted by rsser
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26th May 2005, 10:08 PM #11
Sturdee nailed it Soren, I think the main concern with bits left behind is when trapped under water based finishes.
Not a problem with oil AFAIK.
Good luck..............cheers................Sean, hopefully the good oil
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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