![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 10 of 10
-
8th May 2005, 10:44 PM #1
Havago
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Bonalbo NSW
- Posts
- 4
Render over particleboard flooring?
I've been asked to turn a spare bedroom into a bathroom. The flooring is yellowtongue and the owner wants a door -less shower. This will mean some rendering to create a slope before tiling.
Can anyone tell me if concrete rendering over yellowtongue would be possible or successful. I'd imagine lots of Bondcrete in the render would help.
Should the floor be waterproofed before rendering?
Should I take out the floor in the shower area and box up and lay a concrete pad (there's about 300mm clearance under the floor)
Any ideas??
-
8th May 2005, 10:52 PM #2
take out the floor in the shower area and replace it with 19mm comporessed cement sheet.
-
8th May 2005, 10:52 PM #3
Hammer Head
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 191
It is done a lot in project homes (2nd storey) where the P/B flooring is waterproofed then a screed bed followed by tiles installed. Just make sure u follow the instructions for the waterroofing and install sufficent angles to door ways and have enough fall to the shower waste and the floor waste.
The screed bed is just sand and cement mixed dry, consulant your local floor tiler for the idea ratios.
-
8th May 2005, 11:09 PM #4
The echnidna's suggestion is the best way to start, but it is also the most expensive option.
It is common practice to lay directly over particle board. First you must waterproof before the cement based bed is placed. Within the cementbased bed you add reinforcement in the form of a stainless steel mesh (not concrete reo).
The cement bed is a must because you need to create a fall to the waste pipe.
Now to be really thorough, you can waterproof the cement based bed as well. This method works and is within the Australian standards.
The waterproofing can be done by yourself if you follow the manufacturers instructions which must comply with the Aust standards but waterproofers aren't that expensive and they give long guarantees for their work, some even lifetime. Remember, water can do wonderful things to framing timbers.
But if you get your falls wrong, like out the door, then all the waterproofing in the world wont help you. So a good tiler will do the cement bed properly. Just a tip on the cement bed, dont try to make the cement based bed runny like mortar, make it dry and pat it down.
Hope this helps
Good luck
-
8th May 2005, 11:58 PM #5
It used to be quite common to see galv bird or chook wire used as reo rather than expensive stainless, or is that no longer kosha?
-
9th May 2005, 12:10 AM #6
Originally Posted by johnc
-
9th May 2005, 12:13 AM #7
By the way Tarty, dont you have to be a licenced builder to do that sort of work? Or is this a love job for a mate, or the owner you speak of, your partner etc.
-
9th May 2005, 08:48 AM #8
Havago
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Bonalbo NSW
- Posts
- 4
Thanks blokes - that's about what I suspected and yes, Boban it is a love job - an in-kind job for a helpful relative!
-
9th May 2005, 01:07 PM #9
New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Greta NSW 2334
- Posts
- 4
Originally Posted by Tarty
-
9th May 2005, 11:02 PM #10
reo standards
I looked it up in the standard AS 3958.1 - Guide to Installation of ceramic tiles.
"welded wire mesh... mesh size of 50 x 50mm.. not less than 2.5mm diameter. 'chicken wire... should not be used in place of reinforcement' ... should be galvanised ..."
I took out the boring stuff, can't cut and paste the pdf :mad:
Hope this helps
Pulse
by the way the 50 by 50 is hard to get, James hardie suggest 75 by 75 in the manual for hardipanel flooring