VFD manual

[morrisman]

Hi

The VFD has arrived . I need a circuit diagram and or manual for it

Are these available on-line ?

Mike

[Stustoys]

Hi Mike,
Which VSD did you get?

Stuart

[morrisman]

Hi Mike,
Which VSD did you get?

Stuart

Hello Stuart

It's the same one that Dave has and some of you guys use . The cheapie . I think you have one too ?

Mike

[Stustoys]

I think you have one too ?

Nope... I have four .

It didnt come with a manual? I have four, you're welcome to one but I'd email the seller first and see if you missed out.
There are manuals online for them. There was a thread not long ago about it. Ray and a few others were working on it while I was reading about it on my phone. I'll try to find it.

Stuart

Edit here you go https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/hu...el-pot-147356/. (The manual posts are on the last couple of pages)

[morrisman]

Ok I have found it

Many thanks

Mike

[Dave J]

I was going to say there should have been one in the box.
Change the setting off 400hz as they come standard set at that.

Dave

[Dave J]

Here is a picture of the wiring.


Attachment 199170



Going off what Ray told me
set
PD003 to 10
PD004 to 50
PD005 to 50
PD073 to 50

You press the program button then the up down buttons to get into the number. When your doing it use the >> button to move it across to make another number flash so you can change it instead of waiting. I had to push hard on my button to make it work.

Once you get it hooked up and running you can play with other settings, it's really simple once you get used to it.

Dave

[morrisman]

OK dave , I will print that out at the library and pin it to the wall


I'm having some difficulty locating a suitable motor with a 19mm shaft . They all seem to be available with a 24mm shaft but my DM45 machine for some odd reason has a 19mm drive in the gearbox input . One place quoted $150 to machine the 24mm shaft down to 19mm

I might have to look at machining up a new 24mm gearbox input fitting myself , it has a internal keyway in it though

BTW the 240 single phase here is taken from a transformer on the post which has 22KV lines on it . I think its 2 phase at the post . My AC theory is rather basic but I will sort it out .

Mike

[Dave J]

Once you input those numbers they wont need doing again as it's stored in the memory.
With the motor shaft, can you turn it down yourself and put the key way back in while the mill still has the 240v motor in it?

You could have the gear out when machining it on the lathe for test fitting, then put it back in for the key.

Dave

[.RC.]

I must be special because mine came with a manual...

[morrisman]

Once you input those numbers they wont need doing again as it's stored in the memory.
With the motor shaft, can you turn it down yourself and put the key way back in while the mill still has the 240v motor in it?

You could have the gear out when machining it on the lathe for test fitting, then put it back in for the key.

Dave

Yes I was thinking about turning the shaft down myself . But the 3 ph motor is a bulky thing. And would I have to pull the 3 ph motor apart in order to turn the shaft down ?

Would the Sheraton tailstock support the whole armature OK ? I don't have a fixed steady at the moment .

Mike

Mike

[Dave J]

Hi Mike,
You would have to take the motor apart to do it. I would use a dead centre to do it as they are more accurate than most cheaper live centres.
Once you get the motor apart you will find the armature is not that big or heavy.

It doesn't take much to take the motor apart, just put a texta mark on the motor and end caps so you know where they go back. Then see if it will fit in your lathe, once you set it up see if it runs true off the centre drilled hole in the end, if not you can always put it back together again and go the other way about it.
Sometimes the centre drilled holes get knocked about from rough handling at the factory. If it runs true it should be easy to machine.

Dave

[morrisman]

Hi Mike,
You would have to take the motor apart to do it. I would use a dead centre to do it as they are more accurate than most cheaper live centres.
Once you get the motor apart you will find the armature is not that big or heavy.

It doesn't take much to take the motor apart, just put a texta mark on the motor and end caps so you know where they go back. Then see if it will fit in your lathe, once you set it up see if it runs true off the centre drilled hole in the end, if not you can always put it back together again and go the other way about it.
Sometimes the centre drilled holes get knocked about from rough handling at the factory. If it runs true it should be easy to machine.

Dave

Thanks for the advice .

Yes I was thinking along the same lines .

If there is no centre already in the shaft . Would it be possible to accurately drill a centre in the shaft in the DM 45 mill drill ?

mike

[Dave J]

I think you will find there will be a centre drilled hole in it, but if not I don't like you chances of getting it perfectly accurate in the mill. It would really need to be done in a lathe. With a mill even if you dial in the shaft spot on under the quill, you have things like the quill could move over a little, the column could flex, the set up could move a little, etc, where in a lathe the job is held firmly in the chuck or steady and with it spinning the it helps to centre the drill as well. You still need you tailstock/steady set up on centre.

If it was a belt drive a very small amount of run out could be tolerated, but being geared drive you would need it running perfectly true. I think it will have one, so cross that bridge if and when you need to.

With the gear, check to see how true it runs on the original motor. If it doesn't run real true this could be some of your vibration troubles, so boring it instead would help fix that problem. Otherwise you will just be moving the trouble to the new motor.

To check a gear use a feeler gauge or something similar between your dial indicator tip and the gear, clamped onto something, this will save the dial indicator tip having to actually touch the teeth.

Dave