finishing a jarrah side table

[Redback]

I am close to completing the construction of a coffee table made out of Jarrah.

I have absolutely no idea on the best way to finish it.

My other less important projects I have just slapped danish oil on, but they were for around the shed of sort of training projects that where disposable (ie i did a crap job!). This piece actually looks pretty good, so I want to finish it properly.

Could anyone recommend steps and products needed to make this look like a piece I can be proud of?

thanks

RB

[Gumby]

It depends entirely on how youwant it to look. I suggest a visit to ubeaut.com.au and check out Traditional Wax. I've just done a small picture frame in jarrah and used Trad wax to get a nice finish which isn't glossy (which I prefer). I think you should get a copy of Neil's book and maybe a few products to start with. Say, Trad wax, EEE Polish and some Hard Shellac will get you going. Internet ordering is easy and delivery always very prompt.

You could also use Organ Oil's Hard Burishing oil which wears well too.

If you want glossy and hard wearing, then you can get some Minwax Wipe-On Poly at Bunnings for around $30. That's a nice finish in gloss but I haven't tried the low sheen.

Personally, I think a low sheen looks best.

In the Woodwork Pics forum, there's a hall table just been finished by Baz - cheick it out. (Using mainly Ubeaut stuff)

[JB]

Lacquer, polyurethane, estapol etc give full protection from liquid spills (water, alcohol, etc). Shellac, oils, waxes don't, but look less like a plastic coating. Your first decision is whether full protecton is a priority. Is it?

[Chesand]

I have used Organoil on a Jarrah coffee table and was very pleased with the result. My daughter was also impressed and claimed ownership very quickly.
It is important to follow their directions correctly

[Richardwoodhead]

Like the others have said, you need to decide if you like gloss or satin or flat type finishes (gloss & satin show off the jarrah wood grain / flat finishes don't). Then whether you want protection from wet and hot things. Coffee tables can take a hammering. The oils will tend to be flatter, and not water / heat resistant. You can get satin lacquers that enhance the grain, AND are hard wearing, heat & wet resistant (and definitely don't look like a plastic coating). You can also get oil / polyurethane mixes that give a satin & hard wearing finish. There are LOTS of choices. Get Neils book on furniture finishing..

Good luck,

Richard

[Redback]

OK, I have Neils book...

Basically I want a soft warm look and feel to the timber. I don't want a glossy plastic look....

I am thinking I will do the brush on a thin coat of hard shellac followed by a coat of traditional wax and see how that turns out.

In Neils book, he mentions that if you don't have a spary gun and compressor you can use a vacuum and a spray bottle....

Can someone expand on this or have any pics?

cheers

RB

[Gumby]

I am thinking I will do the brush on a thin coat of hard shellac followed by a coat of traditional wax and see how that turns out.

RB

I wouldn't brush it on. Use a pad (soft cloth bunched up is fine) and make sure you dilute it 50% with metho. Otherwise you won't get a smooth finish because it dries almost instantly.

[Redback]

well i bought an artists mop today, so I will give that a go on a test bit to see how it goes....

I just read on ubeauts site that he recommends that you put a coat of normal shellac on the raw timber first...not hard shellac...

Any particular reason why this is so?

[Gumby]

well i bought an artists mop today, so I will give that a go on a test bit to see how it goes....

I just read on ubeauts site that he recommends that you put a coat of normal shellac on the raw timber first...not hard shellac...

Any particular reason why this is so?

Not sure but i haven't ever done that. No doubt Neil will fill you in when he reads this.

[Richardwoodhead]

I'm interested to see the finished product. Please post some pics.

Thanks,

Richard

[Slavo]

I just read on ubeauts site that he recommends that you put a coat of normal shellac on the raw timber first...not hard shellac...

Any particular reason why this is so?

I think Neil recommends to put a coat or two of de-waxed white shellac on under the hard shellac. apparently they have similar chemistry and so have similar expansion/contraction rates. If you put normal shellac under hard shellac the differences in movement may cause the finish to craze. Thats what I've been told anyway.

[Redback]

Ok, job is finished. pics posted in the pics section....

btw, I misnamed this post, its not a coffee table as such, its really a side table...