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Thread: CI edge build up
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31st January 2012, 05:27 AM #1Senior Member
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31st January 2012, 07:23 AM #2
It's a pitty you are in Syd. If you were closer I could metal spray it for you. It might be worth asking your local welding suppliers who has Metal Spray facilities in your area, It's not the cheapest thing to get done, But by far the best option for the job at hand.. If you have an Oxt/Acet rig you might consider getting a metal spray starter kit and doing it yourself, Especially if you have similar work from time to time as the metal powder dosn't go off. Hope this helps.
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31st January 2012, 08:23 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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If it only retains the o-ring and the riveted on scale, I'd be machining out the broken section down to the level of the bottom, outside flat surface, and then I'd make a mild steel repair piece and fix it in place with small countersunk screws tapped into the side of the pocket under the scale. Seal it with locktite when you install it for the last time. This way you won't be putting any heat into it, damaging the paint, possibly warping the casting etc and you won't have a big machining job to re finish it.
bollie7
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31st January 2012, 09:50 AM #4Dave J Guest
+1 on what Bollie said
There is already one taped hole there to use as it could hold both on.
Was it like this or was it an accident?
Dave
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31st January 2012, 10:13 AM #5Distracted Member
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Bill, do you have the pieces? If so could they be glued? If there's no force on it you might get away with it. Superglue or epoxy. If you can get it clean enough.
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31st January 2012, 08:44 PM #6Senior Member
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Originally Posted by matthew_g
Originally Posted by bollie7
Originally Posted by Dave J
Originally Posted by Bryan
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31st January 2012, 10:00 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Have you considered building it up with Devcon or similar.
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31st January 2012, 10:09 PM #8
Hi Hunch,
I've never tried this, but don't see why it wouldn't work....
Fill it with molten aluminium, you would need to insert a steel strip into the O-ring groove and clamp another steel strip on the outside of the curve. Then clamp a couple of small steel pieces between the strips so that you form a cavity to pour into, with a bit of extra height to allow for shrinkage.
The amount of alumiunium needed looks like it would be fairly small, you can melt small amounts of aluminium in a steel cooking pot with a gas flame.
Drill a few small holes into the cast iron to provide a "key" of sorts.
Paint it green.
Regards
Ray
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31st January 2012, 10:17 PM #9
You could also try what Ray suggested using soft solder. Tinning the CI isn't exactly easy but doable.
Joe
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1st February 2012, 07:03 AM #10Senior Member
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Appears the edge piece is still there after all, impression I get, it's pretty well useless/deformed.
Originally Posted by pipeclay
Originally Posted by RayG
Originally Posted by jhovel
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions all, probably have to decide in the next couple of days whether to proceed, of course the item is located on the opposite end of the country for my usual shipper and ground transport will surely run a few hundred coast to coast. Anyone have a car container guy doing NY to Sydney?
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1st February 2012, 08:24 AM #11Distracted Member
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You could screw the scale back on and use the bugger. What's the worst that can happen? Snag the O-ring? Would it be hard to replace?
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1st February 2012, 10:19 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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I'd start with JB weld. Only to keep swarf off the O ring. If it doesnt work you are no worse off than you are now. Once you start adding heat you may start having other problems. You be able to cut a piece of bronze to fit and epoxy it in place as it doesnt seem to have to do anything other than just sit there. If you felt like making a new scale you could add a ring of steel under the scale to support the repair.
Stuart
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1st February 2012, 11:24 AM #13Dave J Guest
I have been using this stuff called quick steel. It's available for both aluminium and steel so get the right one and you cut a piece off and knead it. It has like a grey outer and a black centre and kneading it mixes it together. The local auto parts where I buy it from, his son races motor bikes and one race he broke a lever and they never had a spare, so he made the end up out of this stuff and he finished the day. He said he still has that lever at home, LOL
If you flatten out the scale and reattach it, this would give extra strength to hold the quick steel in. It can be shaped with a sharp knife while drying (around 15 minutes) and can be sanded after that.
Dave
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1st February 2012, 04:27 PM #14Senior Member
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Originally Posted by Bryan
Can't see it snagging anything really, looks like it rides in a mating groove on the opposite side too - and other than undoing a few shcs and hefting the thing, pretty straightforward I'd think. Swarf's ability to reach the inaccessible as mentioned by Stuart below, probably the only concern.
Originally Posted by Stustoys
Originally Posted by Dave J
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