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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    australia
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    Post Red gum slab coffee table finish

    Hi

    Hust wondering what would be the best finish for a redgum coffee table. What would be the best brand/type for the finish.
    Cheers pezza

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    depends on what your after High gloss, satin or natural

    High gloss either resin or Wipe on Polly or similar maybe even spray it

    Satin plenty choice there

    Natural Rustins Danish Oil or a friction polish.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
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    What wheelin said.....in my backyard, I've used all of the above and much prefer rustins danish oil as it brings out the color and grain of redgum and also very easy to apply. With 4 coats you achieve a natural hand rubbed finish with a lustre that doesn't look like plastic.


    Cheers, Evan
    Last edited by Evan Pavlidis; 2nd January 2010 at 05:36 AM. Reason: made an addition

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    For a good finish, sand till 1200, applying sanding sealer to raise the nap at 400, 800 & 1200. Hand rub the oil of your choice, let dry for 24 hours, sand lightly, repeat another two times, leave for a week, then sparingly hand apply Minwax Wipe on poly, 3 coats, leaving 24 - 48 hours between each coat.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    For a good finish, sand till 1200, applying sanding sealer to raise the nap at 400, 800 & 1200. Hand rub the oil of your choice, let dry for 24 hours, sand lightly, repeat another two times, leave for a week, then sparingly hand apply Minwax Wipe on poly, 3 coats, leaving 24 - 48 hours between each coat.
    now where have I heard that before

    Nice table top Pat you have been busy since you got home even lawns are mowed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    adelaide
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    to Pat: hey Pat, this is my first post so please forgive me if i haven't followed any etiquette, i'm making a redgum slab coffee table for best mate's wedding present and i've been fanatically researching how to finish it; with no satisfaction until i saw yours which is exactly how i want mine to look. however; i've already sanded to 600 without using any fillers or wetting, should i go back down to 400 or will doing it now at 600 do? did the oil darken the colour of the redgum at all? i can show you some pictures if your interested.
    -cheers sam

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by sam1234 View Post
    to Pat: hey Pat, this is my first post so please forgive me if i haven't followed any etiquette, i'm making a redgum slab coffee table for best mate's wedding present and i've been fanatically researching how to finish it; with no satisfaction until i saw yours which is exactly how i want mine to look. however; i've already sanded to 600 without using any fillers or wetting, should i go back down to 400 or will doing it now at 600 do? did the oil darken the colour of the redgum at all? i can show you some pictures if your interested.
    -cheers sam
    Sam welcome and no you haven't broken any etiquette you saw something you needed an answer to.

    If you have sanded to 600 I'd apply the sanding sealer and see how much Nap rises wet sand with what ever you happy with and then wet sand down to the 1200 as Pat has stated. Oil will darken the Red Gum for sure.

    What finish are you going to use??

    Photos we love them.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
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    Hello Sam, As Ray said, no breaches of etiquette in asking questions. No need to go back down the grade. At 600 is should start to feel smooth, the sanding sealer will raise a nap, you can feel the difference. After letting the SS dry for the allotted time (on the bottle - Ubeaut's recommended time is 10 minutes - wander off to annoy the dog/missus/kids

    The higher grades are really for a polished look, thus the careful application of the oil. Yes it will darken the RedGum, a more "wet" look. I use Organoil Danish Oil. If you have any scrapes, sand thru the grades and apply the oil to see if you like the look. I'm lucky as I have done a couple of coffee table out of Redgum and turned a bit too, so I know the "look" I and the recipients like.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    adelaide
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    thanks guys, i planed the two cut sides since my last post so i'll have to sand them down anyways, i will add SS before moving to 800. here are some pics of the slab and of the frame i have in mind, the frame is all recycled jarrah. how do i go about sanding this jarrah? should i go about it the same way i sand the slab with SS and wet sanding etc? by wet sanding is that just dipping sand paper in bucket of water while sanding? or wet down the timber itself?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sam1234 View Post
    thanks guys, i planed the two cut sides since my last post so i'll have to sand them down anyways, i will add SS before moving to 800. here are some pics of the slab and of the frame i have in mind, the frame is all recycled jarrah. how do i go about sanding this jarrah? should i go about it the same way i sand the slab with SS and wet sanding etc? by wet sanding is that just dipping sand paper in bucket of water while sanding? or wet down the timber itself?

    You can wet sand with water but Nap will be like a porcupine so water use the Sanding Sealer and wet sand with it you can use orbital or random sander and try use either no-clog or wet n dry paper.

    The Jarrah either random sander or hand sand again use SS but you only go down to 400 maybe 600 depending on what look your after all wet sanding using Danish oil.

    Nice wood by the way

    added If those cracks are loose anywhere or you think they will open up more you can use epoxy mixed with sawdust or add some black colouring and fill them.

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