![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 4 of 4
-
31st October 2011, 08:14 PM #1
New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 1
How to finish a kitchen benchtop (Marri) To oil or not to oil ??
Hi Fellow Woodworkers,
I am new to the world of woodworking and would really appreciate some help with my current project. I am in the final stages of a kitchen renovation and I need to finish off the top and sides to an island bench so a cabinetmaker can start on the cupboards/drawers. The benchtop and sides are to be made from 2 long marri slabs which will be joined and have mitred cuts on the edges to form a waterfall effect on each side. I have spoken with a number of people with regard to how the marri should be finished off and I get different answers from everyone I speak to. The reno is to prepare for the birth of our first child so it is important to my wife and I that we use a product which is non toxic as it will primarily be used for food preparation. We would also like a finish which is water and if possible heat resistant. We were leaning towards an oil finish such as Organoil Hard Burnishing oil but some forum posters have suggested Organoil will give a dull finish, will stain easily and need quite a lot of maintenance. I have heard some good things about Sikkens and Feast Watson floor finishes but I'm concerned about the toxicity.
Can anyone suggest a product/method which is non toxic but still provide a durable and impressive finish (low sheen / satin preferably) ?
Thanks.
-
4th November 2011, 11:46 AM #2
Most finishes are foodsafe once they are dry. By the sounds of it you need a plastic finish if you are going to be preparing food etc on the top. So polyurethane, or wipe on polyurethane, or 2 part poly etc should do the job. U-Beaut have a Hard Shellac that would also do the job but the poly may be a bit easier to use if you have no prior finishing experience.
I would avoid most oils and waxes for bench-tops as these in the main require some regular maintenance.
Hope this is of some little help.
Cheers - Neil
-
4th November 2011, 01:19 PM #3
New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- winston hills, NSW
- Posts
- 1
theres a few food grade products on the market. cabots do a very good one for around $100 a litre.
-
4th November 2011, 08:35 PM #4
The Livos lady
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 206
Bench finish
Sorry Neil I beg to differ. Whilst oils do require maintenance, it is easy to do, if and when necessary.
The Livos Kunos oil is the one that Neil Scobie was demonstrating at the recent Working with Wood shows. (The countertop oil is heat resistant to 50 degrees). It is plant based and certified food safe. It is also interesting to note that many synthetic finishes still continue to off gas even when the coating has dried. With the natural finishes, one needs to allow the waxes and resins to harden and cure. If you are just building the bench, then it is the ideal time to do it. Maverickhouse, It’s available in Perth or Fremantle.Livos Australia
<O</O
Similar Threads
-
Finish advice - beech ply kitchen benchtop
By WortGames in forum FINISHINGReplies: 7Last Post: 25th December 2007, 11:03 AM -
finish for kitchen benchtop
By Ren in forum FINISHINGReplies: 2Last Post: 22nd January 2003, 07:19 PM -
Kitchen and benchtop finish??
By Rod Smith in forum FINISHINGReplies: 0Last Post: 5th July 1999, 09:37 PM