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Thread: Oil Application
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19th June 2011, 10:45 PM #1
Oil Application
My son has been struggling of late to apply an oiled finish to musical instruments. He has been applying Scandinavian Danish oil to Ironbark.
He tried brushes and various cloths including "lint free." All ended up with either streaks or small flecks of lint.
He has finally solved the problem. He bought a synthetic chamois leather from Repco. He uses a small piece (100 x 75) folded in half and wipes the oil on. No streaks; no lint particles. He couldn't remember the exact price, but said it was on special around $5.
He has always followed a policy of my tools are his tools and it appears this extends to the use of my computer and the forums. He saw that some others were having similar problems and asked me to pass this on.
I know that he could have registered and posted in his own right, but I already have to book computer time on a roster basis. I am unwilling to condone further useage.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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20th June 2011, 04:12 AM #2
Hey, thanks for the tip Paul. I don't know if Danish oil is such a good choice for musical instruments, it is a softer finish which will mark easily, and is not meant to be handled often. A better choice would have been Pollyurathne gloss, which goes very hard & shiny.
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20th June 2011, 10:56 AM #3
Pariss
I understand your comment and you are quite right. Simon manufactures up-market didgeridoos and initially he used botecote which is a super hard two pack used primarily in boat building.
However he wanted a more natural look and in this quest had settled with the scandinavian danish oil, which is a combination of oil and varnish. It is not so hard and durable as the two pack, but has a really beautiful warm look to it. It is still more resilient than straight oil, which if not for durability considerations would be his first choice.
Simon has just finished a couple more didges and I will get some pix to post. They are impressive, but I am seriously biased.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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20th June 2011, 12:16 PM #4
Thanks for the tip Paul.
I have found some cloth to be less than ideal too. I mostly use old tea towls and the more washed out the better.
Just as important as the cloth is a dust free place to let it dry. Most times my shed is no good and it gets done on the back deck.
Regards
John
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20th June 2011, 01:24 PM #5
Orraloon
That was exactly it, so-called lint free. Dusty environment was the other issue.
Pariss
When Simon read the posts he pointed out that he originally used the polyurethane gloss over the botecote. Now he is using the scandinavian danish oil over the botecote. Sorry for the misleading information.
Incidentally, he also tried real chamois, but is was nowhere as good as the synthetic product and more expensive.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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20th June 2011, 10:36 PM #6
Hey Paul. Looking forward to the Didgeridoo pics. I also like Danish oil, I installed a new hardwood front door and instead of using a polyurethane finish, I went with Feast Watsons Danish oil. Gave it 6 Coates, and it looks amazing, almost 3D!. I'm on a traditional finish kick at the moment, using Shellac flakes and rubbing the finish out, then several Coates of Traditional Wax. I have just finished a replica Tambour clock in Red Tulip Oak, the end finish is like glass, and the colour of the wood looks amazing.
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21st June 2011, 07:36 AM #7
That's a good tip. I have used Danish Oil as a finish and not have any issues as what your son had. I do not have a place to finish the projects in the garage so I take them inside the house front veranda.
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21st June 2011, 09:44 AM #8
Christos
Although in sunny QLD, we are 200Km inland and it is cold this time of year; Too cold for satisfactory finishing so much to our disgust these 2m long didges are brought into the house to be finished!
On top of that Simon works out of a shipping container with all the dust and shavings associated with the hollowing process. Not the best finishing environment.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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21st June 2011, 08:51 PM #9
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22nd June 2011, 06:53 PM #10
Well, here you are the latest in the didge offering as promised. Sorry Christos, Simon refers to them by this so often that I have regressed into the same way of speaking.
He also lapses into the vernacular when the manufacturing process lets him down, but I am doing my best to resist that trait. It is difficult when he says he learnt it from me.
He has a couple more didges almost finished and when complete I will place a thread on the musical intruments forum. Perhaps the best aspect of this particular instrument is the sound which is a deep and vibrant resonance.
This one is 1800mm long and 150mm wide at the bell end.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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22nd June 2011, 07:09 PM #11
Certainly brings out the grain.
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24th June 2011, 09:27 PM #12
I have posted a thread on the music forum with pix of a few didges for those who are interested.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f98/wo...ridoos-137258/
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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24th June 2011, 11:41 PM #13
New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- Ballarat, VIC
- Posts
- 2
Bushmiller!
Thanks heaps for sharing that trick, I just went out and got a synthetic chamois from Repco and hopefully will be able to try it this weekend.
Those didgeridoos look great, I love the big knots left as is, the wood looks amazing.
Regards
Jason
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