Perforated paper tape vs fibreglass tape for plasterboard jointing

[Harry72]

Dont use that mesh tape it is crap, ask any plasterer/flusher.
Come to my house and I'll show you mesh V's paper... currently doing my whole house now(well I was until I had an operation done on my lower back...) I started using mesh, then a plasterer mate came around and laughed at me for using it. He showed me how to apply the paper tape(its easy... very)and that stuff hasnt cracked yet, all the meshed area's will have to be scraped out and redone because every millimeter of it has cracked!(the G/rock is glued directly to solid brick and its still cracked)
Barry, Mick is right you should have used basecoat 45, topcoat is just that it fills sanding marks and very slight imperfections!

[princhester]

Thanks all.

[JDub]

Sorry to dig out this old thread all.....



but Im about to embark on my first crack (pun intended) at plastering.

I am filling in a doorway and also removing a dividing archway.



From what I understand mesh tape is easier to use but paper tape is stronger.

Any tips/instructions on how to use the paper tape effectively? :eek:



Cheers

Joel

[BrisBen]

Joel

The real key with paper tape is bedding it in. Most mudslingers (plasterers) run a thickish layer of basecoat with a 4 inch knife over the join then bed the tape in. Once it is in place they will run the knife over it again, smoothing it into the join and removing the excess mud - but it will take a bit of practice, if the tape bubbles - rip it up and start again - if you hit paper tape when you are sanding it makes a bit of a mess.

If you are going to do a bit of plastering buy decent broadknives (or trowels if you are more comfortable with them) - keep away from the plastic stuff, plaster is abrasive and you will lose the edge on them quickly. Carbon steel is easier to use for a starter as the mud sticks to them a bit better, but clean them well and spray with cooking spray when you have cleaned them to store. Mud will slide off the stainless ones a bit to easily for the uninitiated.

Final word, start with smaller tools and work wider on joins - say 4 inch first coat, 6 inch second, 8 inch final, a butt join of this type should really be about 400mm wide when finished pre sanding. On thicker in the middle then feather the edges each coat. CSR have a pre mixed multi purpose compound that will probably make it a little easier for you.

hope this helps

BrisBen

[Jacksin]

Not wanting to stir the pot further but---

Looking at a DIY gyprock installation guide put out by CSR Gyprock that I recently picked up, I see they recomend Gyprock 'easytape' which is the meshed type with built in adhesive.

I think where I went wrong with paper tape was after spreading jointing compound on the joint and running the tape over it so the excess compound squeezed out, I tried to load more compound onto the joint before allowing the tape to dry, ending up with bubbles here and there.

I have always been wanting to try the mesh to avoid problems, but if its not as strong-----
Jack

[Harry72]

And it will crack at the slightest movement of your house...
The paper tape is easy to use, the way I been do it.
Slop on a decent amount of mix(stiff), I cut the lenght before starting. Line the start up using your finger pushing in the centre of the tape, holding the tape out from the wall with your right hand(im RH'ed)with you arm streched out, this will help you keep it lined up. Using your LH fingers in the centre of the tape walk along the lenght of the wall pushing only the tape centre into the mix.
Then using a 4" plaster/broad knife from the start push the rest of the tape in the mix using a sliding action along the lenght, dont put too much pressure on it or you'll squeeze out to much mix and end up with excess/stretched tape bubbles.
Once thats done while its still wet slop on the main fill coat.

[JDub]

Thanks for the detailed explanations guys, that will really help me out.....

Do you think the internal corner plastering tools are worthwhile or are you better off just using the broadknives for the internal corners?

With the external corners I assume there is no special tools etc needed when using the metal beeding edges, just use the broadknives and feather the outside as with the other joins......?

Thanks again,

If it works I will post some before and after pics

Joel

[princhester]

I've now finished (sort of, read on) my plastering job. It went well in some areas, but in others the compound in the joints seemed to swell when I painted so that it is now slightly raised and a bit ugly. I'm trying to work up the necessary head of steam to sand it all off and repaint.

JDub, I found the internal thingy of limited if any use. I found you could do the very corner itself OK, but you needed to use an ordinary knife to smooth out from there.

[johnc]

The internal thingy is pretty useless in the plastic version as it tends to deform in use and wears quickly, however there is a stainless version which is OK. I use it to load on the material, clean (feather) the edges with a plasters trowel and use the internal angle tool to give a nice clean line at the finish, a gentle swipe down the full length seems to give a tidy result. To be honest you can keep the broad knives and plastic of any kind I've stuck to a plasters trowel, paint scrapper, small tool and internal angle tool, but then I'm no plasterer so perhaps what I don't know doesn't hurt. I've noticed some plasterers run the paper up the corners before applying plaster and then trowel over the top with base coat, and then the final top coats later, its what I've done and no cracking but am I just lucky? Or is this a case of not reading the instructions again before jumping in feet first, Dohh.

[BrisBen]

A lot of guys will "flat tape" internal angles on the side that doesn't run through the wall - so that the only wall that gets the plaster is the wall that runs at right angles to a perimeter wall for example, remember to sheet the perimeter walls first so they butt right up to the studs. A clean cut sheet butting up to another sheet in some circumstances may only need a little "no more gaps" or similar, giving it a little room for building movement.