Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default Timbermate and sanding sealer

    I am painting 38mm blocks of pine 200 x 200, with lots of end grain, and want to eventually end up with a glossy white finish.

    I have been reading Neil's Polisher's handbook, and it recommends using Timbermate to fill the pine, so intend making a slurry and applying it all over each block. But it is not cheap

    Would I still need sanding sealer after applying Timbermate, before applying a primer coat?

    PS Went to Mitre 10 the other day, asked at the counter where they kept their Timbermate, and was directed to the far corner of the shop where all their timber was kept
    regards,

    Dengy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <wompatibility> <wreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <wseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </wompatibility> <wrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</wrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Depending on your blocks' intended purpose and likely subjection to handling and abrasion, you might be better off building up a thin layer of gesso on the blocks similar to the hard smooth base required for gilding on. Gesso is as cheap as it gets and very easy to apply and smooth.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Thanks Woodwould, but I don't think that would be tough enough. the blocks are being used by kids as pegboards, on tables, floors etc.

    Does anyone know if sanding sealer will fill the end grain of radiata pine, or should I use Timbermate, then apply sanding sealer?
    regards,

    Dengy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    When gilding, gesso is traditionally made with rabbitskin glue, however, for your purposes Jill, ordinary animal glue will more than suffice. Cover the dry glue with an equal weight of water and when it's been absorbed, heat it and thin it in the order of one part glue to ten of water. Add sufficient whiting to make a substance akin to thin cream.

    Brush 3-5 coats of gesso onto the wood and smooth with very fine abrasive paper. This will produce a thin, baby-bottom-smooth and resilient surface which you can then paint over.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default

    this forum is amazing! the things you learn

    I have never heard of gesso before, so will now look in to it. Can you buy it off the shelf, or do you have to make it like WW indicates above?
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JillB View Post
    this forum is amazing! the things you learn

    I have never heard of gesso before, so will now look in to it. Can you buy it off the shelf, or do you have to make it like WW indicates above?
    You can buy cold 'synthetic' gesso (acrylic, or some such horrid stuff) which shares only its colour and no other properties with true gesso. I think it's intended for artists to treat canvasses with and should not be used for the task in hand.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    75
    Posts
    9,665

    Default

    Jill - Look up gesso in the index of the book. there's a whole section devoted to it and its uses, including use as a grain filler, for gilding, and decorative finishes. There are 2 gesso's used in the book one made with pva which can be used as a tough durable finish in its own right and hide glue gesso as described by Woodwould.

    Cheers - Neil

Similar Threads

  1. sanding sealer
    By chris casey in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 13th October 2008, 09:48 AM
  2. sanding sealer qns
    By tyabb wonder in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 8th October 2005, 04:36 PM
  3. Sanding Sealer or Grain Sealer
    By Strungout in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th October 2004, 12:03 PM
  4. Sanding Sealer
    By Trench in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 8th September 2004, 08:36 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •