![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 12 of 12
-
31st October 2010, 04:29 PM #1
Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 77
Acrylic primer not adhering to painted surface - what am I doing wrong?
I have obtained a family heirloom by way of a small kids buffet, which I am in the process of restoring for my daughter. I've sanded it back, applied putty where necessary, sanded the hell out of it and as I'm going to use a Dulux enamel paint to finish the buffet, I had a look at the Dulux can, to see which primer to use. It specified that I use a Dulux acrylic primer/undercoat but that priming was not necessary if paint was in ok condition. The paint was in ok condition in most places, but as I did a fair bit of filling, I decided to prime the whole thing. Well, the bloody primer hasn't stuck and is peeling off!!!
What have I done wrong? I thought applying the primer over the old paint would be a sure fire way to make the new paint stick. Should I have used another sort of primer instead? And how do I now remove the primer that's peeling (other than peeling it all off bit by bit)? I'm not that big a fan of using paint stripper, as I'm pregnant, but if I have to, I can always get my husband to do it (even if I do think he won't do the job as well as I will).
Here's hoping someone out there can help me. Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Lotte
-
31st October 2010, 10:30 PM #2
sawduster
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Townsville Qld
- Posts
- 29
It sounds like an oil or something similar is blocking the primer from penetrating the wood and causing it to lift when it dries. Might need a was down with some sugar soap or similar.
I make sawdust with powertools.
-
31st October 2010, 10:37 PM #3
There is a line, oil over water but never water over oil. You can get a prep product that will provide a good key. One of the three in one undercoats should do it. Go to your local paint shop they will be able to give you what you need.
-
1st November 2010, 08:56 AM #4
Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 77
Thanks so much for the help guys. I have some ESP on hand - should I use that?
In the meantime, does anyone know how to remove the primer?
Regards,
Lotte
-
1st November 2010, 09:03 AM #5
-
1st November 2010, 11:40 AM #6
Paint stripper might be easiest, failing that sandpaper. I'd use stripper then prep-lock
-
1st November 2010, 02:08 PM #7
Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 77
Thanks heaps for the advice. I guess I'll strip the thing and start over again, this time with some of that Zinsser stuff. Looks like all my work was a giant waste of time. I was actually originally going to use an oil based primer, but my father in law said I HAD to use acrylic, hence I went with his suggestion and the suggestion on the paint can. Yay!!
Cheers,
Lotte
-
5th November 2010, 09:36 AM #8
He who turns good wood into saw dust
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Innisfail. NQ
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 29
Hi Lotte,
Personally I prefer to use oil base paints on timber as it seems to key to the surface better and the enamel dries much harder - read more durable than acrylic. The oil also helps seal/preserve the timber as well. In fact, I usually add a bit extra linseed oil to the primer, particularly if the timber is very old and dry.
Acrylic seems to do a better job on the plasterboard/render/hardiflex/MDF/ synthetic type materials.
Just my 2/- 's worth
Bushy
-
6th November 2010, 09:11 AM #9
Like a lot of furniture this piece may have been cleaned with Mr Sheen or some other silicon based cleaner and there are a few of them around. If so then it's likely that enen stripping right back to bare timber may not do the job.
If it still doesn't stick properly a coat of dewaxed shellac should seal the yucky stuff into the timber and allow the paint to work.
-
6th November 2010, 11:50 AM #10
Shellack; universal primer - everything seems to stick to it.
If stripping is ness. try Citrusnstrip (TM) or any other of the citrus oil based strippers made from the rinds of oranges, lemons, limes. This stuff is almost edible! - works just as well as the amonium choride horror liquid stripper.
Someone mentioned silicone. Could be the core of your non-sticking problem.
Good luckI'm both dyslexic and paranoid. I keep thinking I'm following someone.
-
7th November 2010, 09:45 AM #11
He who turns good wood into saw dust
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Innisfail. NQ
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 29
Lotte, I am impressed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First time I have ever heard of a daughter-in-law listening to, let alone doing as a father-in-law suggests)
One of kind girl.
Best wishes from us to you for the safe and happy event
Bushy n Spud
-
8th November 2010, 10:08 PM #12
Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 77
Thank you everyone! It's still sitting as I contemplate what to do next. I think I'll do the citristrip and start all over again. It's on the front deck and I'd REALLY like to get it off and finished ASAP so that we can have the deck back, but motivation is hard to come by at the moment
)
Haha, thanks! My father in law is good chap, hence I do generally listen to him, unless he's baiting me
Cheers,
Lotte
Similar Threads
-
filling mortar lines? already painted surface
By Reno RSS Feed in forum BRICKWORK, CONCRETING, PAVING, RENDERING, etcReplies: 0Last Post: 5th April 2009, 03:00 AM -
Clear on top of painted surface
By reidy in forum FINISHINGReplies: 2Last Post: 22nd August 2008, 03:27 PM