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Thread: QCTP Holder Storage
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24th July 2010, 02:33 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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QCTP Holder Storage
I have just made a storage rack for my QCTP tool holders and thought others may be interested. I thought about this for quite a while, trying to figure out the simplest and neatest solution,,,,I'm not sure I have succeeded yet....
I acquired an old computer desk from work, recently and I think I will mount the stand on top of it, so its at a comfortable height to reach the tools. I can also make up dividers on the lower levels to keep all my other tool kits, etc.
I've collected a few pics from the net, showing what others have done( to get some ideas) but none have really grabbed me.
Does anyone else have any different solutions to this problem?
I was leaning towards making small wooden dovetails to hold the holders but that seemed to much work. One long half dovetail, on its side, was another possibility.
Anyway here's a couple of pics.
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24th July 2010, 03:22 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Mine is quite rough but effective and runs out at less than $20.
I use 40x3 flat bar and 12x3 flat bar.
Drill a hole in the 40,counter sink to take screw.
Weld a piece of the 12x3 45mm lng to the bottom edge of the 40x3.
I cut the 40x3 at 45lmm lng.
I cut both pieces at the same time.
Mount the L shaped bracket to a bit of ply with a suitable packer behind it to give clearance for the holder to be inserted and removed easily( I use a 8mm nut)Last edited by pipeclay; 24th July 2010 at 07:53 PM. Reason: add pictures
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24th July 2010, 06:59 PM #3
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24th July 2010, 09:24 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Nice one pipeclay.
My way took a fair bit of work, with lots of cuts on the table saw. It would have been alot harder and less neat, without one of those.
Less chance of your tool holders falling as well, with your method.
Any other ways out there?
Sterob
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26th July 2010, 01:20 AM #5Senior Member
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here is mine no welding just cut some pins and drill some holes also lets you fit maximum no holders into a small area
cheers
harty
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26th July 2010, 11:30 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Nice one Harty. I did think of using that method, but didn't end up going that way.
There is certainly no way the holder could fall, but the method I used, there is.
Sterob
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31st July 2010, 08:40 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Harty's method
I decided to to try your method Harty's and see how it goes.
Less chance of the tools falling with your idea. I had a small incident when I tried mine.....
I thought I'd see how it goes sitting on the back splash plate, as all the tools would be in easy reach. If the weight proves too much I might have to wall mount it.
It sits snugly on the top ridge but if it proves unstable I can put a couple of tek screws in the back if need be.
I just have to cut the dowels, knock them in and give it a coat of sealer and varnish.
Sterob
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31st July 2010, 09:41 PM #8Dave J Guest
Here is mine after I moved my lathe, nothing special just a shelf under the cupboard and a board for chuck keys. I haven't got around to making more holders yet. I am not paying the new price of $76 each for them, so I only have 6 at the moment.
It some times gets a pain changing tools over, and if I had of been on the internet back when I bought this tool post from H&F, I would have bought one of the ones from the US and a heap of tool holders for the same $500 price I paid for this one.
If you have a look at the chuck keys in the picture you will see the handles and shaft sleeves I made up for them, I also put 3 grooves for the 3 jaw one and 4 grooves for the 4 jaw one to make it easier to grab the right one. The collar on the bottom is pressed on and the sleeves are free to spin, It saves the key spinning in your hand when reversing the jaws.
I also made up an extended camlock key to save bashing my knuckles on the top of the gearbox when changing chucks.
Dave
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31st July 2010, 11:36 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for even more ideas of things to make guys.
What sort of steel did you make your chuck key form Dave? Would M/S do? or case hardened M/S?
Both my 3 and 4 jaws have the same sized key, I find this helps me dial in the 4 jaw quickly. With the dial gauge at center height at the front, check run out and with a key at the front and one at the back, undo one as you do the other up. easy. I told a fitter mate of mine about this and he thinks I am crazy, but it works for me, maybe I just need more practice with one key?
Stuart
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1st August 2010, 12:56 AM #10Dave J Guest
Hi Stuart, good to see someone getting ideas out of the postings.
For the camlock key, just mild steel, it has held up so far. It will damage the key before the the hardened camlock socket, so no harm will be done.
When I turned it down on the lathe, I tapered the end then recessed it down for the key. It was one of them days I couldn't be bothered setting it up in the mill so I filed the square key into it. It didn't take long to do and it's good therapy.lol
I heated it up and dunked it in motor oil when I finished it to stop it rusting.
I took a few more pictures of both keys for you. The 3 and 4 jaw ones are the standard keys modified.
I have heard of people using 2 keys and I the on Bobs CNC Cookbook site he has a picture of a 1 piece dual key that is spring loaded.
I had always used 1 key myself, after roughly centering it, I do it up 1 by 1 progressively getting tighter and centering it that way.
Dave