![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: Abbey French Polish and Spray
-
13th December 2009, 03:02 PM #1
New Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Diddillibah qld
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 3
Abbey French Polish and Spray
Gday - my name is Dave. I am a french polisher who was trained properly in the trade longer ago than I like to admit.
I have my own boutique antique restoration and french polishing business located just north of Brisbane on Qld's Sunshine Coast - servicing North Brisbane to Gympie.
I have many years of experience with antiques and modern fiurniture.
I am happy to answer any questions about troubles with your treasured items, or furniture you may want to buy and have restored - most happy to share my expertise with no obligation.
You can contact me via email if you wish as well - abbeyspray at live.com
Or look for me on facebook - Abbey French Polish and Spray.
-
5th January 2010, 04:08 AM #2
Abbey French Polish and Spray
Thanks for offering advice.
I have an Old English Oak table probably 100 years old by now. It is dry looking but in OK condition. (Not painted). I wish to make it look polished but am not really a good finisher. I had in mind to use a wipe on finish, but if you could direct me to something better that would be appreciated.
ThanksDon't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive. :angel::angel:
-
5th January 2010, 08:27 AM #3
New Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Diddillibah qld
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 3
easy finish
You can apply orange shellac to the surface using cottonwool wraped in pure cotton cloth [old is better ]make this about the size of your palm. Dip into mixed shellac and squeeze out excess then going with the grain of the timber apply a single coat until the whole surface is covered.You can apply as many coats as you like as long as the one before is dry (5 mins )until you have the finish you desire You can give a light sand between coats .Leave over night and then apply bees wax with a fine steel wool (000)with the grain this will give you a very smooth finish
Abbeyfrench polish
ps make sure cotten wool is kept inside cotton rag completly
-
5th January 2010, 11:30 AM #4
To: Dave- Abbey French Polish and Spray
Great news, i'll follow your advice - seems rather simple but books on this are a little confusing for the novice. For your info the table is rather plain. It has straight skinny tapering legs, each having rusty old fashion wheels. The top is flat and worth being nice.
Thanks muchly.Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive. :angel::angel:
-
5th January 2010, 01:40 PM #5
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Hobart
- Posts
- 410
Jabba that is the beauty with the use of shellacing (French Polishing), it is actually quite straight forward, even if shrouded in Mystery. The key to it is that it is a simple product to work with, and provides once completed, a finish that looks and feels right for old/antique wood and to my mind being a natural finish is perfect, unlike plasticky polyeurethane.
But perhaps I am just biased, as I only restore antiques, and old timbers for enjoyment and as a part of restoring my colonial properties joinery.
To add one further piece of advice to that of Abbey's, you can also use a paint brush for the hard to reach corners etc, but need to be careful with "water marks" or brush marks forming, though these can be normally sanded back. The other thing I was taught actually was to use a figure of 8 motion when coating large flat surfaces, but yes as Abbey says do follow the grain.
Like pines, cedar, and other timbers, English Oak will come up a real treat with this finish. Enjoy the project. Dave
-
5th January 2010, 03:38 PM #6
Hi Dave
Very thoughtful of you to provide additional info...............cheers
JabbaDon't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive. :angel::angel:
-
5th January 2010, 04:00 PM #7
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Hobart
- Posts
- 410
Hey jabba you are most welcome and if you know how to post a pic on this forum (for I can't seem to re-size my photos), would enjoy seeing a pic of the table, before/after.
Sometime in the future I too need to re-polish my wife's English Oak writing beauru, which also looks dry, but for the moment I have plenty of other projects to keep me occupied when not at work etc.
-
5th January 2010, 04:20 PM #8
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Mango Hill
- Age
- 87
- Posts
- 0
-------------------
A good resizing program is called PIXresizer and is free!
PIXresizer freeware download - PIXresizer is a photo resizing program. - Best Freeware Download
Colin.
-
5th January 2010, 07:36 PM #9
Thanks to both Horsecrofft 88 & Chippy 71 for your response & interest
.
I like a freebie so will look into a photovery soon.
P.S. It's 38-39 degrees (cel) daily here in Perth & going into the 40's soon. I will put this off until it cools down to at least body temp.
regards
JabbaguttDon't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive. :angel::angel:
-
6th January 2010, 09:08 AM #10
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Hobart
- Posts
- 410
Thanks Colin (Chippy), I will have to download it and try it out. Great to know.
Jabba, man that is far too hot. We recently had a day (yes just one not a week) of 38-40 degrees down here in Hobart and it was far to hot to do anything. Stayed indoors away from the sun until it cooled off a little, so I can well understand you not being too keen to get cracking on with the restoration job etc !!
-
19th January 2010, 12:29 PM #11
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 0
I have an old art deco clock that I want to restore. I am doing fine with the mechanics but the case has crazing and cracks in the finish. My best estimate is that this clock was made in the 1930's and is finished in what looks like to be french polish.
I was wondering what the best approach would be to restore the case. I was thinking perhaps a light sanding of 1200 g or higher to smooth the surface and then apply shellac. Does that make sense?
-
22nd January 2010, 07:40 AM #12
Hi TP1
It shows on my screen that you have not yet been provided with a reply. I left it for a while waiting for the experts to help first. I am new to woodworking, and should remain silent on your clock restoration project. But, I hope I can help by suggesting the following book. One of our members (patron Saint actually) sells them. Go to his website to check if it is still available @ U-Beaut Polishes - HOME PAGE
Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive. :angel::angel:
Similar Threads
-
French Polish
By hap97 in forum RESTORATIONReplies: 0Last Post: 25th March 2009, 06:04 PM -
French polish and oil
By prav in forum FINISHINGReplies: 1Last Post: 3rd September 2008, 08:44 AM -
French Polish
By 46150 in forum FINISHINGReplies: 3Last Post: 23rd July 2008, 11:55 AM -
A little help with french polish
By joseph84 in forum FINISHINGReplies: 7Last Post: 13th March 2006, 07:23 PM -
French Polish - Again!
By Asquared in forum FINISHINGReplies: 4Last Post: 6th January 2001, 02:00 AM