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Thread: Sap bleeding through Danish Oil
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12th November 2009, 04:40 PM #1
Hewer of wood
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Sap bleeding through Danish Oil
Brains trust got any ideas to sort this one?
Deodar bowls; treated with a wash coat of shellac and then 3 coats of DO. Rustins.
After a few days sap bleeds through from the late growth rings.
I can remove it by wiping with White Spirits (the solvent in Rustins) and recoating but it happens again.
The bowls are food utility items so whatever finish finishes the problem off can't be a surface one.Cheers, Ern
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13th November 2009, 12:13 PM #2
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gooday Ern,
have the same issue with himalayan cedar; I roughed out the blanks in April 09 and they've been oozing resin inside the bowls like it's going out fashion. Last month I cracked the sh#t big time and scrubbed them down hard with a stiff brush and heaps of acetone. It worked ok and took the resin a while to dry. The rough blanks are no longer sticky to the touch but I'm going to wait longer before I tackle them.
If they continue to release resin I'm going to use them by taking up demolition bowling; bloody PITA timber it is.
Cheers, EvanLast edited by Evan Pavlidis; 13th November 2009 at 12:14 PM. Reason: typo error; demolition not demoltion
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13th November 2009, 12:27 PM #3
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A gift that keeps on giving
Thanks for reporting that. Throws up some ideas.
This stuff wasn't sticky til the finish went on, so maybe the solvent is doing the damage.Cheers, Ern
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13th November 2009, 12:36 PM #4
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No worries mate,
If you decide to go with acetone you're going to need heaps and work quickly as you're aware of its quick drying. I poured small amounts in the bowl and scrubbed like a madman until there was no acetone left and repeated the same the following day and now playing the waiting game to see if the resin shows its ugliness again.
Evan
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13th November 2009, 12:40 PM #5
Hewer of wood
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Ah, OK.
No point in pinching the daughter's nail polish remover bottle then.
Any case, there's several coats of DO to make things complicated.Cheers, Ern
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13th November 2009, 04:33 PM #6
I reckon you could be waiting a VERY long time Ern
. My old man used to cut that stuff into slivers and drill a hole in one end so people could slip it over a coat hanger to keep the moths away. Theory is that the resin/gas keeps flowing for YEARS longer than camphor
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13th November 2009, 05:11 PM #7
Hewer of wood
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Yoiks!
They're commissioned utility bowls; client has already waited for the roughouts to dry. Darnit.Cheers, Ern
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17th November 2009, 05:42 PM #8
i'm not familar with this paticular wood ern-but when i get this problem i gently heat the offending area to help release the sap- then let it cool and repeat until no more ooze's out then seal with shellac and finish
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17th November 2009, 06:20 PM #9
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Thanks for the tip Cornucopia.
Cheers, Ern
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18th November 2009, 08:54 AM #10
Any timber with high aromatics probably shouldn't be used for food bowls. Bleeding as above is one good reason, tainting of food is another and as with almost anything with high aromatics..... it probably isn't good for you.
Your best possible solution is to wash it down with meths then coatit heavily with Hard Shellac which will stick to almost anything, is food safe when cured and has a resistance to lots of the staining etc. It should also lock in all the nasty stuff..... But no guarantees.
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18th November 2009, 09:06 AM #11
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Thanks for the tip, and the warning, Neil.
As for the smell, yes, I'd posted a query a while back about this. Most of it is gone now, like Camphor Laurel.
My bottle of hard shellac has been demoted to sanding sealer. Time to get some more; darn good stuff it is.Cheers, Ern
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21st November 2009, 12:45 PM #12
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what is a good finish for redgum to make it shinny
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25th November 2009, 09:12 PM #13
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Ryan,
Welcome to the forum.
Most finishes will give redgum a bit of a shine.
What is the piece and what's it going to be used for?
Just remember that careful sanding is half the game. Sand up to at least 400 grit, preferably higher.
.......
Hit the bowls today with the meths. Several times.
Not hard to get woozy on that stuff. Outside next time.
Two coats of hard shellac so far, diluted 1:1, cutting back with steel wool and a light sand. Will need another one or two.
Bit hard to paint it on evenly. So ordered one of those brushes from the US that Neil recommended a couple of years ago.
Fingers crossed.Cheers, Ern
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25th November 2009, 09:50 PM #14
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A friend made a table out of Cedrus deodara it leaked resin though estopol for a couple of years. I have seen other Cedar that hasn't leaked at all. I cut some studs from Pinus radiata that some nong had cut the top off they were leaking till I put plaster over them.
If you search this you will find a t least 2 threads discusing Cedar leaking.
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1st December 2009, 06:22 AM #15
Hewer of wood
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Neil's solution looks like a winner.
4 coats; has sat for 4 days with no bleeding so far.Cheers, Ern
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