JessEm Rout-R-Lift (PART 1 of 2)

[Shedhand]

New Product Review
Jessem Rout-R-Lift
Attachment 120216
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

Disclaimer: I have no commercial relationship in or financial interest with the companies mentioned in this review other than being a customer.

Overview

My JessEm Route-R-Lifts were provided by Northwood Tools who also filled our recent Great Bessey Buy order.

I have been wanting to buy 2 router lifts for some time but was put off by the high price of the Woodpecker UniLIFT at $615 per unit (Professional Woodworkers Supplies price from their website). If I only wanted one, that would be my first choice. However, I opted for the cheaper JessEm at $399 per unit giving me 2 for only a little more than the price of 1.


The main reason I wanted to install router lifts in my custom built table is that I was tired of contorting my already stuffed body when going under the table to make adjustments in height of my routers and fiddling around to find the on/off switches. Additionally, my main interest is box making with dovetails and finger joints using my Gifkins Jig (one router for tails and the other for the pins). So getting the two routers at precisely the same height to make these joints was a painstaking process with lots of potential for error.

The two units arrived, well packed in one box, in my hands via Australia Post ePost, 4 days after ordering on Northwoods Online Store (Brisbane to Tasmania Country Area).

All invoiced components were received, apart from a 2nd Router Table Safety switch which was back-ordered and notified prior to purchase.

The JessEm Rout-R-Lift is an American/Canadian made product and probably competes with the Woodpecker UniLIFT Router Lifter. Both units are made of high grade aluminium (cast in the case of the UniLIFT) with steel riser posts. The UniLIFT is chain driven with 4 steel riser posts while the JessEm is rubber belt (fibre reinforced and notched) driven on two 1” diameter steel riser posts.
Attachment 120208 Reinforced Rubber Lift Drive Belt
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

The riser posts on the UniLIFT are set opposed to each other to prevent racking while the Rout-R-Lift has two adjacent posts with the whole support mechanism for the router cantilevered off these two posts.
Attachment 120207 Lifter Post detail
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

It is VERY rigid and I could see no discernible flexing , even when I put pressure on the cantilevered router mounting plate. I've never used the UniLIFT so can't attest to which machine adjusts better. The Jessum has a full 63mm of lift while the UniLIFT claims 95mm of lift.

Both allow above table height adjustment and bit changing.

The UniLIFT comes with a few more insert rings as standard (Aluminium) while the Rout-R-Lift comes with only one lock-in insert (precision phenolic) with others available costing extra (kit of three other hole diameters plus a blank for $45).
Attachment 120213 Optional Precision Phenolic Inserts
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

I also received two JessEm Feather-boards as a bonus, valued at around $40 per.
Attachment 120212 JessEm Feather Board
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

The JessEm came with all screws and Allen keys needed to fit the components together except those screws necessary to mount the routers on the base plates. Unfortunately, I lost the originals from my 2 Triton MOF001's a long time ago so had to source some more (1/4” x12mm UNC) from a local Engineering shop at 20 cents each.

My router table is home-made and I originally had my 2 Tritons mounted side by side directly in the table top, which is made from 19mm MDF sandwiched between 3 sheets (2 on the bottom and 1 on the top) of 3mm matt white Lamipanel. This provides a rigid and slick working surface so some modifications were necessary before I could mount the JessEms. Overall table top thickness is therefore 28mm allowing plenty of thickness to rout the top to accommodate the JessEm main plate which is 1/4” thick.

For people without the patience to mark out the precise sized cut-outs for the unit, Northwood also stock a template for that purpose (also manufactured by JessEm) of CNC machined MDF material for $29.95.
Attachment 120214 JessEm Rout-R-Lift CNC MDF Cout-out template
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]
A bit expensive to my mind for a piece of MDF. It would be cheap as chips to make and could easily be included as part of the kit.

The first step was to put the components together according to the accompanying very clear instructions – a first for me as instructions are usually translated from Chinese to English by a Chinese person (no insult intended Wongo ) and are quickly consigned to the waste paper bin.

A number of the flat-head countersunk Allen screws for attaching the levelling bars were too short (a common manufacturing fault in any screw) but there are half a dozen spares in each kit so that was no real biggie. It took about an hour to put both kits together.

The router base plate is made to suit about 20 different brands of routers, all of which are listed in the manual. Once the the original base plate is removed from the router, the “male” sub-plate is bolted on so it can be rotated in the “female” mounting plate to allow the easiest access to speed adjustment, on/off switch and dust connection.
Attachment 120215 Router Base Plate pre-drilled for 20 Router Brands
[Source: Northwood Tools Web Site]

Attachment 120210 Bottom view of lifter plate fitted to the Triton
Attachment 120219 Top view of lifter plate fitted to the Triton
Attachment 120218 Both Tritons fitted to lifter plates
Attachment 120220 Base plate bolted to main plate
Attachment 120221 Undertable view showing cantilever
Attachment 120222 Fully assembled units

Once the routers are mounted in the Rout-R-Lift they are a fairly heavy unit. So, in retrospect, I should have routed the table top before I fitted the routers to the lifters as you have to take the units out of the table a few times while adjusting the levellers (apparently, with the UniLIFT, levelling can be done with the unit in place).

The next step was to mark out my table top to rout the cut-outs for the units. This is a 2 stage process when dealing with a custom built table. I used the JessEm main plate itself to mark out the size needed. There are 2 rigid steel rails to which the Lifter top is bolted and a smaller sized cut-out is required to accommodate the router AND lifter mechanism with clearance for the mounting rails. I then set my router to cut the the remainder of the cut-out to the depth required to accommodate the main router plate and the levelling rails – 12mm deep x 20mm wide overall. For my freehand router – a Festo OF900 – my cutout guide rails were set back from the marked lines at 57mm which gave me a snug fit for the lifter main plate.

I then inserted both units into the table and I put the lifter winders in the holes (no fiddly jiggling to get in in the hole – just slipped in and out) in the top plate to test that everything rose and fell smoothly – which it did – and declared myself satisfied with the job so far.
Attachment 120209 The completed Router Lift installation.

The next task was to adjust the levelling bars which is done by the tightening of a number of grub screws 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time to chieve leveleing with the table top. This required the removal of the units from the table a couple of times – tedious but necessary – but didn't take long and was very easy. Again, it would be better to do all the marking and cutting of the table and levelling of the Rout-R-Lift plate BEFORE mounting the router in the lifters.

I then installed the TWS 1 Router Table Safety Cut-out switch (Emergency stop) for the first machine and will install the other when it arrives. These come with a 1.5 metre cord which is plenty.


The Rout-R-Lift in use.

I'll post a second review as Part 2 when I've used it which will be during this weekend.

Overall, this is an impressive looking unit. Its very sturdy and you don't have to be an engineering prodigy to put it all together.

The instructions are clear and concise with warnings on usage including that the user NOT use a cordless (or otherwise) drill to raise and lower the lift (voids the warranty).

Hope this is useful.

Sheddie

PS: I am very satisfied with Northwood (Colin's) service.

FOOTNOTE: Having had the Triton routers in mothballs for over 12 months I'd forgotten what the dusty connection on them looked like. It turns out that the Festool C22 dusty hose connector fits perfectly in the Triton dust outlet. Bonus. Will have to get another hose for the second router.

[fubar]

nice review will wait for pics

[Tisorp]

Thanks for the review Shedhand. I await the field trial report with interest.
Given the significant price difference between the Jessem and the UniLIFT I will be most interested to learn,after you have had an opportunity to use the Jessem(s), whether you believe there are any potential advantages of the the more expensive lift.


Cheers, Jeff

[Fencepost2]

Thanks Shedhand, very informative, and a model for reviews from the perspective of the do-it-yourselfer.

[Groggy]

Wow, nice setup Sheddie

[Shedhand]

Thanks for the review Shedhand. I await the field trial report with interest.
Given the significant price difference between the Jessem and the UniLIFT I will be most interested to learn,after you have had an opportunity to use the Jessem(s), whether you believe there are any potential advantages of the the more expensive lift.


Cheers, Jeff

Hey Jeff, thanks mate. As I say in the review, I haven't used the Woodpecker UniLift (I have seen one - at the Deloraine Men's shed) and I can only conjecture that the only 2 advantages the UniLift would have is that it has four riser posts (claimed to stop any racking) and a chain drive rather than rubber belt. My view is the UniLift is probably over-engineered for the average woodworker and therefore a bit pricey. In my case it was a choice of buying the UniLift and having to change bits constantly when doing dovetail joints or buying the two JessEms and not having to worry about that. Once my two routers are set up I can work without breaking concentration.
Mind you if I had the money I probably would have bought the UniLift instead.
I'm yet to fire up the unit to test it but will give them a workout over the next couple of days and report my conclusions.
Cheers
Mike

[Shedhand]

Wow, nice setup Sheddie

Thanks mate, I like it.

[Afro Boy]

A number of the flat-head countersunk Allen screws for attaching the levelling bars were too short (a common manufacturing fault in any screw) but there are half a dozen spares in each kit so that was no real biggie. It took about an hour to put both kits together.

Great review Shedhand. I just purchased one of these and had the same issue with the screws for the levelling bars. I want to mention that Colin was fantastic in helping me out and getting me a new set of screws shipped promptly.

Cheers,
Af.

[Mike Wingate]

I have been using one of these for a while. A faultless product. You will get greater consistency if you use a digital height gauge to set and check bit height from job to job.

[Shedhand]

Great review Shedhand. I just purchased one of these and had the same issue with the screws for the levelling bars. I want to mention that Colin was fantastic in helping me out and getting me a new set of screws shipped promptly.

Cheers,
Af.

Ahh! Prolly why he put extras in my shipment...and yeah, have to agree on Colin's excellent service. He could teach Myer a few things. I hope he gets a lot of business through the forum. Good service always wins.
Cheers
Mike

[Shedhand]

I have been using one of these for a while. A faultless product. You will get greater consistency if you use a digital height gauge to set and check bit height from job to job.

Yes! I'm looking at that. Pennies are a bit tight and I need 2.

[Wongdai]

Thanks. I love a good review. Well done.

[Mike Wingate]

Buy a cheap digital vernier. Chop off the top arm and fix in a block. No cost and use above the table and elsewhere.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...2/PICT0156.jpg

[rsser]

Neat idea.

[Shedhand]

Buy a cheap digital vernier. Chop off the top arm and fix in a block. No cost and use above the table and elsewhere.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...2/PICT0156.jpg

I had that very idea after I posted my last comment. Got a digital Vernier and will do just that. Great idea.