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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
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    117

    Question Cut & polish lacquer

    I've lacquered (Mirotone pre-cat 60%) two red cedar small tables and want to "deplasticise" the look a bit. May have put the last coat (of 3) on a tad thick. Any suggestions on methods and materials would be appreciated. I've tried Danish wax (not oil) applied vigorously with 0000 steel wool but a little bit more cutting and a higher finish would be better. Admin suggested U-Beaut EEE in a separate thread -- anyone had experience with this?
    Rusty

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
    Age
    45
    Posts
    171

    Default

    Yes!

    If your finish is really thick, you may want to start with some 2000 odd grit Wet Dry paper (and a little water).

    Other than that, I have recently use EEE and the 75mm swansdown mop on a coffee table that I finished with Rustins Plastic Coating (it was early days, and I figured coffee tables get heaps of abuse, I wanted that sucker indestructible. Still, I'm not sorry I did it).

    The finish didn't flow as well as I wanted so after all this time I used the EEE on it (bought it at the WW show).

    Worked a treat, shines very nicely now, which helps you to look through the finish and see the timber, helping you to not notice the finish.

    Based on the theroy (sp) that a matt finsh is simply "fuzzy" on top.
    The higher the gloss, the more light going through the finish.

    BTW EEE won't smooth out bumps.


    Ben.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
    Posts
    117

    Default Swansdown mop

    What's a Swansdown mop Ben? Is it essential to use that as well?
    Rusty

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
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    45
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    171

    Default

    It's basicly a buffer, the name "mop" is a little confusing.

    Have a look here then go to "Swansdown Mop" near the bottom of the list.

    You don't have to use a mop, but it sure makes it easier.

    I put mine on the drill.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Thanks Ben. I'll probably use EEE or something similar + elbow grease.
    Rusty

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1

    Default

    G'day.

    I was talking to a Mirotone distributor yesterday & he says to just put a coat of the 30% over the top of what you have.

    He reckones you can put Mirotone on top of Mirotone on top of Mirotone & it all bonds together as one coat & if the last coat is too shiny or not shiny enough, put another coat over it in a higher or lower gloss & it will fix it.
    He says you can put gloss over matt & it will be gloss or matt over gloss & it will be matt.

    Try it, all you have to loose (save) is elbow grease.
    Last edited by Cliff Rogers; 10th December 2004 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Fix spelling
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    Cliff's suggestion is the most practical one.
    Most commercial furniture is finished with 30%.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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