weatherboard edges

[DaveInOz]

What do you use on the corners to cover where weatherboards meet?

Dave.
who has only lived in dbl brick and just built a weatherbord cubby house.

[barnsey]

Traditionally there is a stop mounted at the corner and the weather boards are butted up to it. It's size is greater than the thickest overlap dimension.

Hope that helps

[Kev Y.]

usually I think a piece of rectangular hard wood is used to cover the edges.

The hardwood is nailed to the corner and the weatherboards are butted up to it AFTER they have been painted with a suitable primer.

[silentC]

Like this:

[DaveInOz]

oops

I pre-made the sides and then joined them, already clad.
I guess I'll go for an L shaped metal strip to cover my sins.... The joys of just making it up as you go along
oh dear .......

thank you all for your explanations - excellent pic silent, very illuminating

[johnmc]

However, if you've already put up your weatherboards you could use some hardwood external angle to cover the join.

[Kev Y.]

I would be careful with the metal strip idea. you could get condensation forming resulting in the promotion of rot in the end grain.

[silentC]

Just make sure you seal the endgrain first and because of the sharp edges, for a kids cubby I'd go for 50x50 PVC angle.

[DaveInOz]

I'll get this eventually guys don't give up on me

Okay scrap the metal angle strip and replace it with external angle hardwood strip.
Never seen them, where do I get them, are they single piece or just 2 pieces butt joined at 90°

Oohh PVC angle sounds good too - where does that live?

[johnmc]

I think you can buy hardwood external angles from your local timber yard, but they are easy to make too.

From 50mm square stock, rebate out 38mm on your table saw leaving you a 12mm thick by 50mm square L shaped strip.

[jackiew]

being the totally sad soul that I am I spent yesterday evening reading the BRANZ good timber cladding practise guide. Its amazing what you find in your local library - you might be lucky and find that your library has it too.

From memory ( you'd think I'd be able to remember something for less than 24 hrs wouldn't you ) there are about 6 acceptable ways to join weatherboard walls - all with pros and cons. Where your pre-fabricated walls join are the weatherboards mitred together or do they butt up against each other ?

[DaveInOz]

The weatherboards end in the same vicinity but don't actually touch, if they were a little longer they would mitre. I only aimed to get them close enough assuming I would put a corner covering on.

For a perfectionist in some things I'm such a hack at others

[jackiew]

ok ... went home at lunchtime and grabbed the guide to good timber cladding practice ....

under the picture for mitres ... we have "requires high skill level" - difficult to rectify if mitres open up after construction .. which from your comments is where we're at now.

next picture shows mitres plus soakers which appear to be little metal corner pieces. These can't be used on rusticated profiles ( by deduction from the many photos this means that the boards aren't just wedge shaped , instead each one has a tongue at the top and a cut out at the bottom. The cut out on the upper board sits on the tongue of the lower board. So if you've got a rusticated profile you can't use soakers.

next option is to have an L shaped corner piece and the boards on each side butt up against the corner piece ( they aren't tucked behind it).

next option is to have a proprietary corner mould - this looks like an L shaped corner piece but has another square piece sitting in the L - so it has little arms that stick out. the boards but against the square and their edge is hidden by the arms.

both these risk the end grain of the boards being exposed.

next option is a boxed corner. This is a make your own L shape out of two bits of vertical board. you need to cut a vertical weather groove in each piece from top to bottom to allow penetrating water to drain down to the bottom. There will be gaps due to the profile of the board and these should be plugged by either fitting scribers (bevelled boards ) or plugs (rusticated boards).

In all cases it is suggested that you put flashing behind the weatherboards at the corner with the vertical edge of the flashing folded over towards the corner.

this is a bugger to explain but I haven't got a scanner available

I'd go for the L shaped strip - cut vertical weather grooves (6mm x6mm is suggested) in it first closest to the edge of the strip away from the corner and if you haven't already nailed it all together fit vertical flashing between the frame and the board.

hopefully you aren't too confused by this reply!!

[silentC]

It'll be the best built kid's cubby house in the street

[jackiew]

maybe the kid will want to sleep out in it - you'd want it to be water-tight .... especially if there is any chance of having to spend the night in it yourself. I've known at least one neighbour be locked out by his wife ... I reckon he would have paid good money to sleep in someone's nice dry cubby house