Jarrah finish for indoors - some advice please

[deldridg]

Hi again folks,

thank you for your help on an earlier finishing matter. Now I have a new one as I try to climb the learning curve.

I'm just completing a Jarrah lamp stand (see Aust Woodsmith no. 27) and wonder how best to treat it to achieve a low gloss deep Jarrah finish. Of course I'm not interested in staining, but want it to be protected and natural (that's the best way I can think of to describe what I'm trying to achieve!).

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave E (Sydney)

[KevinB]

I've found that some finishes give jarrah a dull, lifeless appearance.

But I've found a way to give it a warm, rich lustre for which this timber is famed.

What I do after fine sanding is to use a cabinet scraper or fine steel wool for that extra smooth surface.

Then I coat the job with sanding sealer. Jarrah has coarse pores and the sealer fills these admirably. Another going over with the steel wool and we're ready to start the final coating.

You'll need some polyurethane varnish and some lint-free cloth. I use Chux wipes from the kitchen.

Take one piece of cloth and dip a corner of it in the varnish and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky to the touch. Then use it to wipe down the job. This picks up all the sanding dust and gritty bits. Then look at the tack rag. The amount of gunk gathered will pass all belief.

Use a fresh piece of cloth to apply a coat of varnish. Don't use a paint brush because the varnish tends to gather in globules on the job.

Observe the drying times on the label.

Then another rendering with the steel wool, another clean up with the tack rag and another wiped on coat of varnish.

By now your jarrah will show colours and have a richness that you will like very much.

[deldridg]

Hi Kevin,

wow - sounds exciting. It also sounds like a lot of work, especially on this project which has a gazallion small parts to it. Hmmm - I wonder what's planned for this Sat?

Again many thanks - I'm gradually coming around to the whole finishing part of a project being as exciting as the initial build. Otherwise I'm going to have a garage full of almost complete projects!

Cheers,
David

[AUSSIE]

Hi Kevin,

wow - sounds exciting. It also sounds like a lot of work, especially on this project which has a gazallion small parts to it. Hmmm - I wonder what's planned for this Sat?

Again many thanks - I'm gradually coming around to the whole finishing part of a project being as exciting as the initial build. Otherwise I'm going to have a garage full of almost complete projects!

Cheers,
David

We want pics

[Tex B]

I've had quite good success using Minwax Wipe on Poly on jarrah. Follow the directions. Put on four coats - amazing the imrovement between coats 3 and 4.

You can leave it at that. If you want more shine, use 0000 steel wool to apply a coat of wax (buff off), then another coat or two of wax applied with a soft cloth (and buff off).

Whatever you do, I strongly suggest finishing an offcut piece first to make sure it's what you're after.

Tex

[Wongo]

What Tex said.

I suggest 1 coat of sealer, 2 coats of Satin wipe-on poly and polish it with a coat of wax.

[Pete L]

One of my favourite woods.
I like to use a sanding sealer by brush - to seal the grain.
Then I shellac by brush and rub down with 0000 steel wool. I repeat this two or three times and then finish with Liberon Black Bison clear wax rubbed in initially with 0000 steel wool and then by cloth. The beauty of this finish is that it can always be repeated again in years to come. It gives a lovely, natural and soft finish.

[paul k]

Hi kevin all of the above , thought i would throw another one in , Sand to 340 with radom orbital sander , two coats feast and watson proofseal sanding between coats, finshing off with feast and watson fine buffing oil two coats will give a beautifull sheen , rub in the buffing oil with a green synthetic pad . Easy to repair , maintain with feast and watson floor and furniture polish . It does not darken the timber and brings out the grain , always try on a piece of scrap first to see if you like .

paul , k

[KevinB]

One of my favourite woods.
I like to use a sanding sealer by brush - to seal the grain.
Then I shellac by brush and rub down with 0000 steel wool. I repeat this two or three times and then finish with Liberon Black Bison clear wax rubbed in initially with 0000 steel wool and then by cloth. The beauty of this finish is that it can always be repeated again in years to come. It gives a lovely, natural and soft finish.

Hi Pete,

I am interested in what you are saying.

What shellac do you use? I mean do you buy flakes and mix with meths? Do you use a mix you buy off a hardware merchant's shelf?

And where do you buy Liberon Black Bison wax?

I'd like to try your method on some jarrah I have on hand because I have a project in jarrah planned for next year.

Regards,

Kevin.

[KevinB]

Hi kevin all of the above , thought i would throw another one in , Sand to 340 with radom orbital sander , two coats feast and watson proofseal sanding between coats, finshing off with feast and watson fine buffing oil two coats will give a beautifull sheen , rub in the buffing oil with a green synthetic pad . Easy to repair , maintain with feast and watson floor and furniture polish . It does not darken the timber and brings out the grain , always try on a piece of scrap first to see if you like .

paul , k

Hi Paul,

I am interested in your method. Our local Bunnings has metres of Feast and Watson products displayed so I reckon they'll have the items you recommend.

One question though, you say ' rub in the buffing oil with a green synthetic pad'.

Paul, what is a green synthetic pad?

I'm anxious to have my work in jarrah finished to a high standard and I intend using your method on a piece of flat material to see if it's the way to go.

Regards,

Kevin.

[KevinB]

What Tex said.

I suggest 1 coat of sealer, 2 coats of Satin wipe-on poly and polish it with a coat of wax.

Thanks Tex,

I never thought about putting wax on polyurethane.

As you can see, some people have come up with some good ideas on jarrah finishing and I have printed them off so I can try each of them.

Thanks again for your interest Tex.

Regards,

KevinB

[paul k]

Hi kevin , synthetic pads are nylon pads and they come in differant grades , course through to fine , the colours range from green to white as far as i know . The green ones that i purchase are very similar to the green scouring pads you buy at woolworthes , Its a habit i have got into with any oils regardless of it being sealed or not sealed timber , burnishing the oil in using friction it works for me . You will have to let us know how it all goes and maybe some pics

cheers

paul ,k

[Pete L]

Kevin,

I like Rustins sanding sealer but it is difficult to obtain so more recently I have used U-Beaut. It works well. I use a ready made shellac, again U-Beaut. You should be able to purchase in Perth or see the sponsor site above this thread.

Liberon Black Bison Paste Wax Clear is a UK product. I used to be able to purchase in Melbourne and now I can't. I have found it again and purchased recently from The Wood Works Book and Tool Co in Sydney. It is their item number C7140. Look it up at www.thewoodworks.com.au

Liberon has a great smell, dries quite hard in 30 minutes or less and it is a very easy application. Despite the name it is a light yellowish colour. I don't do much wood turning and I find that this wax is easy to apply to flat surfaces and does not rely on friction.

Peter