Finshing issues

[back yarder]

Hi all,
i have finished off the table top (Red Gum) and an not fully happy with the finsih
I used organoil and then the EEE polish wax
Dry sand 80 120 180 240 320 400 then wet sand with oil + 400 600 1500 all on ROS
then EEE buffed with festool felt then lambs wool
the finsih is not bad but not as deep as I thought it would be.
have I missed something?
your thoughts would be great.

[RufflyRustic]

Hi Back Yarder,

You'll need to put one more finish on to really complete it. This is because EEE is not a finish.

The last step is a wax finish eg UBeaut's Traditional Wax.

You'll find that the EEE finish by itself will dull after a while, whereas the Trad Wax will keep the shine better.

Cheers
Wendy

[rsser]

Yep. And with DO at least, burnishing oil too, put on a couple of generous wash coats, wiping & allowing to dry after each, before wet sanding.

[back yarder]

can i go over the top of the eee with more oil or do i need to just go with the finishing wax

[rsser]

The EEE will have left wax on the surface which likely will resist further oil penetration.

I think this is one for Neil, the guru.

Failing that, Ruffly's right. A coat and buff with Trad Wax will give you a sheen and some more protection. D*mn good stuff.

[astrid]

how many coats of oil did you use and what is organoil
I havent used redgum but the usual way to finish timber is sand raw timber, seal with single coat of shellac, buff back with 400 grit, apply 2-3 coats of oil lightly buffing between coat and let each coat dry at least 24 hrs more in cold weather or if useing a natural oil.
then apply thin coat wax, let dry and buff off

hope this helps
astrid

[rsser]

Astrid, Organoil is an Oz maker of timber finishes ... with an 'organic' or 'natural' selling point.

They have a new Danish Oil product (favorably reviewed in a recent AWR) which I'm now trying out on my woodturnings.

I've used their Burnishing Oil in the past, got good results with wet sanding but didn't like the way it raised the grain after a couple of weeks.

(Like all finishing products, its important to follow their instructions carefully).

IMHO if you go for an oil finish, all other things equal, you start with a soaking wash or two and go from there.

[back yarder]

once dry sanding was finished with 400 (this was also wet down between grit changes with damp rag and moistened to stand up the fibres, then dried and then sanded before moving up to next grade).
1 coat of oil sit for 3 hours and then a 2nd coat and wait 15 mins and then start with the ROS while still wet
slurry is worked up and into the grains then wipped down and onto the next grid paper then allowed to dry for 24 hours then on with the EEE wax.
thats whats on the can.

[rsser]

Goodo.

Well give her a waxing and a buff and she how she comes up.

[rsser]

PS ... those are longish waits given the DO I'm used to. You may have some build up. Try a thorough rub down with 0000 steel wool to remove any deposits and then do the wax thing.

[LGS]

Hi All,

Backyarder, what Organoil was it? Hard Burnishing or Interior finish? In my experience, neither will give you a deeper colour, no matter how many coats you use. And after about 14 days it will look dull. A quick run over with 1500g or higher and then EEE and then Trad wax will give you a lustre but no more depth in the colour. As Wendy says, you need to finish with the wax, but the colour and finish should be fairly apparent before you apply the EEE cream.
I have found Danish oil dulls the finisha nd actually removes some apparent grain during processing. I have the proof for this and witnesses as well. I therefore don't use this. Perhaps if you remove the EEE by using a high grit and then refinish. If you want depth and clarity as well as a darker colour, then use either Wattyl Scandinavian oil or Feast and Watson China wood oil. You will get a high finish with the Wattyl and a softer finish with the Feast Watson.
IMHO, the gap from 600 1500 is too large. I would suggest using at least an 800g and probably a 1200g as well. In finishing what you get out is directly proportional to the work you put in. Follow the method suggested by Lignum and you will get what you're after.
Incidentally, I don't see any real value is sander/sealing Red Gum as it's just such a dense timber.

Regards,

Rob

[back yarder]

hard burnishing oil
followed the intructions on the can
might try the Busy Bee wax i have at home with some 0000 steel wool then a hand buff
the satin shine is nice with the light on it but the depth and the colour is a bit lighter than I was expecting

[Cruzi]

Busy Bee wax has too much beeswax in it, it never really cures, especially in warmer areas, the Ubueat Trad Wax or Feast Watson Pure Carunba Wax are better options

[back yarder]

bought some organoil wax polish and some gilly stephens wax with carunba mix if this stuff doesn't produce the desired look I might try some of that wipe on poly
cheers

[ubeaut]

Boy talk about making a rod for your back.

For starters you should probably have left the HB oil for at least a couple of weeks before applying anything. All you are doing is stopping it from curing properly. By applying more and more wax it won't get a lot better and no way will you ever get poly to stick to it.

allowed to dry for 24 hours then on with the EEE wax.
thats whats on the can.

Sorry, but what can is that on? Not any that I know of. Certainly not ours and I'd bet my life it ain't on the Organoil can.

Could be wrong but if it is it's definitely news to me. The closest thing to anything that might work will be the Gilly Stevens Carnauba wax. You're wasting you time with anything else unless it's our Traditional Wax.

Cheers - Neil