New windows double glazed

[auscab]

Ive got a kitchen renovation to do.
First thing is some new awning windows are needed and I'm going have a go at making the new frame of one and altering the second one by filling in the bottom half then cover that with plaster and weatherboard. And hopefully fit new double glazed panes to the new and altered parts. If that is a good way to go. Otherwise a new unit will be made so both are new.

Whats the best to go with on the double glazing for cold Vic winters. Is 4mm glass with 6 mm gap good? 4 6 4?
One mate was saying 6 6 6. Another says 4 6 4. 4 6 4 will be easiest for me to fit if using the old frames on the tall one.

The window on the right needs replacing with a taller one to match the height of the left window.
The one on the left can possibly be filled in on the lower section and two new DG Panes added.
IMG_7971a.jpg


Outside view.
That right lower section could be filled with a beam under it for support and framing to take plaster and weatherboards? Or take the whole thing out and replace?
IMG_7985.jpg IMG_7986.jpg

Any recommendations?

Thanks . Rob

[Optimark]

This is something that has been on our minds for the last 37 years in our house. My wife is German and everything over there is double, or in the case of family in the alpine areas, triple glazed.

Last week I was cycling past a house in the next street, where the windows of the entire house were being replaced with something I didn't know existed. A local to me business is manufacturing their windows at Moorabbin Airport, possibly under licence from a German company. Speaking to the installer they were using 6mm glass with a 16mm centre gap filled with Argon.

The material, from what I could glean from their website, appears to be a combined aluminium/plastic, which they call aluplast frames. But that is just a guess. The rellies in Germany pretty much all use 6mm glass these days.

These aluplast windows appear slightly bulky, but the way they were installing them into that brick veneer house was interesting. They were pulling back and sealing everything around the windows with an expanding foam product, which they held a board over until it stopped expanding; removed the board then applied the removed material. The installer mentioned that he was of the opinion that using an expanding insulation product around the entire window frame (or at least where possible) really enhances the sealability of these windows.

https://winplex.com.au/project/awning-window-sunlight/

Mick.

[ErrolFlynn]

Expensive items. I can understand your interest in making your own.

I bought a small second-hand one (maybe about 600 x 600) for an anticipated job a bit down the line. I was surprised at how heavy it was. I fancy that a particularly sturdy window opener might be required if it was to be an awning window.

I’ve heard of a 12 mm air gap, and as noted above, sometimes wider. Your 4 or 6 mm may be a bit narrow.

Make sure you seal them well. Moisture that gets between the panes that’s impossible to remove may be annoying. They might end up looking like your bathroom windows. I’ve also seen dead insects getting stuck in the air gap. You wonder how that happens. Presumably, that doesn’t happen with the commercially available panes – sealed carefully in a dry environment.

You might also like to think about the hinges on the window. Are they in good condition? Will they be able to cope with all that extra weight?