Beading versus putty for windows

[Compleat Repeat]

G'day all. I have a pair of timber french doors with timber fixed panels on each side (i.e. 2 fixed outer panels, 2 doors in the middle). Each of the four has a smaller lower glass panel (approx 600 mm square), and larger upper glass panel. I'm thinking of replacing the lower glass panels, which are 70s standard clear, non-plate, 3mm (? not sure about thickness, but done in the 70s) with tinted plate Safety glass, 6mm.
The existing glass is fixed in the side panels with a timber mould; the rebate is maybe 25mm deep; the glass in the door panels are puttied, with a rebate of maybe 10mm deep.
Here's the question: Can I, or should I, finish both doors and side glass panels with a timber bead, or should I stick with putty for the doors? This question is partly about effort and my sh*t puttying skills, as well as using silicon both sides of the glass from preference. Yes, it may mean a protruding bead on the windows.
Cheers

[r3nov8or]

I'll be using silicone and timber mould soon on some double hung windows soon, that are reasonably well protected by eaves, basically due to my own crap puttying skills.

Are yours protected by eaves? If not, possibly better to putty unless you'll pay attention to the timber maintenance ongoing

[Compleat Repeat]

Yeah to the eaves, about 1500mm overhang, so OK on that score. Pretty fierce morning sun impact April-October, but at least accessible for repainting.
Cheers

[mic-d]

Timber bead would be ok. Puttying is a useful skill to learn and it doesn't take very long to get an acceptable level, just you will be slower than the professionals. There are some good primers on YT. I use this product rather than silicone for a glazing compound if beading. It is acrylic and accepts paint on any accidental smearing whereas silicone will not. I would leave the putty if it's in good condition or just replace any loose areas. I can tell you how to get the putty out, but it's a slow process if the putty is really sound.
https://adheseal.com.au/products/allflex-101

[Compleat Repeat]

Thanks mic-d. Is the Allflex for the rebate-glass join? Even if using putty I'd use silicon rather than putty as bedding material normally.

[mic-d]

yes that's right

[Compleat Repeat]

Finally got around to all this, and use a mix of puttying and beading to match the existing. Puttying was fine, but the beading awful. How on earth do you cut an accurate mitre on an essentially triangular bead, such that the joins mate neatly? I hacked a lotta beading and got results.

[mic-d]

Finally got around to all this, and use a mix of puttying and beading to match the existing. Puttying was fine, but the beading awful. How on earth do you cut an accurate mitre on an essentially triangular bead, such that the joins mate neatly? I hacked a lotta beading and got results.

I use a guillotine but you could use a mitre box or a scms but you need to use a sacrificial fence so the end is always supported. The bead should be a right angle triangle and it rests on the sides that form the 90º angle so the cut just becomes a 45º mitre. I just thought of something though that may be better especially on older munted rebates and that is to do a sort of coped joint. Fit the short beads in full length (butted into the corner) then do the complimentary cuts on the longer pieces leaving it a fraction long so it can be sprung into the rebate and make a nice tight joint. I have no idea why I didn't think of this before.

[Compleat Repeat]

Thanks mic-d. I can't visualise the first option, and God knows I tried every combination of mitre box I could think of. The second option sounds like the way to go, I'll definitely give that a try and report back.
Cheers

[mic-d]

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I don't know what happened to your query I got in email notifications but here's a photo that explains the first part of my post. Hope that clarifies...
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