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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    Exactly!

    Attachment 537766



    Here is a video of me removing the Seal and Peel from last years reno's. The whole house is full of 8 light French doors and side lights and 4 light awning windows so efficiency is important!

    https://youtu.be/yX1Y5HPd9wg?si=EfqnhEEvBXUmucnO

    A bit late, Mike, but I just stumbled on this. My first reaction was "Yeah, yeah, yeah." until I saw your authorship. A couple of questions:
    • How accurate do you have to be when cutting in the Peel Paint on the window glass?
    • What happens if you get a splodge of Peel Paint on the wooden glazing bar?
    • How else couuld you stuff it up?


    You make it look so easy that I am suspicious.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    A bit late, Mike, but I just stumbled on this. My first reaction was "Yeah, yeah, yeah." until I saw your authorship. A couple of questions:
    • How accurate do you have to be when cutting in the Peel Paint on the window glass?
    • What happens if you get a splodge of Peel Paint on the wooden glazing bar?
    • How else couuld you stuff it up?


    You make it look so easy that I am suspicious.
    Nothing suspicious.
    Before cutting in. If the window is raw timber you don't need to do anything. Seal and Peel will prime. If it is painted you need to either sand it to knock off the shine and/or use Resene shiny surface sealer (exact name?). I highly recommend that product. When cutting in just ensure you don't have globs on the timber, overlapping timber with a thin coat is fine. You need two coats.

    I splodge of seal and peel will take long to dry and look ugly. Don't do this.

    How else can you stuff up? You can't. Just ensure you run the release cut right into the corners. I suppose if you don't it is possible to rip off the fresh paint, I never had this happen because I am not inept. ;-)

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