Printable View
G'Day
This couch thingo was my Grandparents-in-law and we inherited it some years ago.
My wife wants to know what to do with it. (I'm not game to tell her)
Is it difficult to restore? Would that lessen its value?
I will try to attach photo's
Waz
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&d=1216527306
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&d=1216525534
I think they might have been called "day beds" might be ok for sticking on your back verandah for emergency accomodation.:2tsup:
Its a Chaise Lounge aka Miner's Couch
G'Day again
So any suggestions on how to pretty it up a bit??
Waz
A real find. Could be referred to as a "chaise lounge". Maybe a "miner's lounge" if it is lower quality.
I saw a similar one to this (but worse condition) at a town auction and it had spirited bidding to a couple of hundred dollars.
Looks as though it may have been painted in the past. Either clean it up and maybe lightly distress it along the edges or go all the way and strip it back to the bare wood and finish with a wax. I find this a pleasurable activity and the results are very satisfying.
aye waznme,
is that paint or some type of wash on colour (like white wash)? water based or spirit?
most of these come up well with a light strip, sand and polish, (dependent on wood species)
note: turnings, joints and carved work is laborious.
a few repairs maybe (slat base looks like a ring in)
if you don't know anything about restoration, don't touch it (will devalue considerably)
e.g. red cedar goes purple in caustic baths, leaving paint in open joints/ turnings, glue joints, sanding edges etc
make a great dog/cat perch :)
cheers
The wire frame is removed before the timber frame is restored and then place a MDF base onto which a newly upholstered foam mattress is placed, with a matching cushion. Will be very comfortable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waznme
Hide the MDF edge with a frill or upholster edge with matching material.
By the look of the photo, it will fit perfectly under that window.
In the short term, get piece of foam to the right size and a pillow, cover with an attractive sheet and see how it looks and feels. Then be inspired to restore it.
If the paint is to be removed, use a commercial methyl chloride stripper, finish with steel wool and metho, the turned pieces may be tedious, but with care all paint can be removed.
MDF ???????? surely you jest good sir.
MDF = Medium-density fibreboardQuote:
Originally Posted by endgrain
Refer to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard
Personally I'd restore it as an original.
I wouldn't degrade a nice period couch by doing an elcheapo reno with mdf or slats etc
G'Day again
I reckon the blue is paint and by its age, would be lead based for sure.
I will not be using MDF!!!!!
Can you still get that spring wire base stuff?
You can probably tell I have not done this before :B
To do this properly, should it be dismantled completly, cleaned up, sanded and then reassembled?
Waz
If it's tight and not rickety don't pull it apart.
If the wire is sound you can adjust the tension by tightening the bolts at the left hand end.
Yes i agree with the others, it's a miners couch, possibly late 1890's, Australian, (i've see a few made in Aust red cedar) and it looks in very good original condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by echnidna
PLEASE dont pull it apart, use MDF, attack it with just any paint stripper until you see someone who is a expert in restoration.
This a piece of your family history as well as Australian history, so dont destroy its originality.:(
[quote=Waznme;774248]G'Day again
I reckon the blue is paint and by its age, would be lead based for sure.
Take it down (if your polite AND honest they'll come and check it out for you) to your local restorer, someone reputable/ recommended. NOT a dealer.
Get a price for partial or full resto. Get several quotes. You might learn something.
Maybe they'll offer some useful advice. They may even assist with wood species, accurate dating etc.
Very difficult to date "sticks" by photos ... appears to be edwardian or later.
I will not be using MDF!!!!!
Repeat after waznme .......altogether now: I will not use mdf ;)))) (especially on period peices):doh:
Can you still get that spring wire base stuff?
Early originals came with slats only. May be a dating clue if the wire base is a ring in. (i.e. added later) Do some research, find some pics on the net, ask around, email a few news groups etc
You can probably tell I have not done this before :B
Which should point you in one direction?
To do this properly, should it be dismantled completly, cleaned up, sanded and then reassembled?
Down the library with you me lad:; You seem hell bent on it. There is some practical novice stuff on the net.
Are you aware of the dangers of using a good stripper like callington haven for example? Do you have the protective clothing (inc mask), workspace, and experience to do this SAFELY? It's TOXIC.
Remove the sprung base only. Legs could be knocked down, they usually come off in pairs. It's easier to "handle" this way. The rest should stay put unless there is loose joints or repair necessary.
OPTION A:
Perhaps you could make this an online project with the help of forum members (it's a big ask so don't look at me) if you are adamant AND determined AND prepared to eventually take it to a restorer after botching it up big time :2tsup:
cheers
Yep as others have said a 'Chaise Longue' - wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaise_longue.
I would restore it - they look good and can be very comfortable too (although not with just that wire base!). Paint might well have lead - there are test kits available from Bunnings, but so long as you take precautions it can be dealt with (search on this forum and Google to find out how).
When a piece such as this (which looks like everyday furniture of the period, not a fine bit of work) was built, the support base, slats (which were common in these and other parts that would never be seen would be made from whatever bits and pieces were laying around the workshop - offcuts and lesser quality timbers.
If after cleaning up and finding the timber type etc it seems that it was a fine piece subsequently modified with poorer materials then some trouble might be made to return its original construction and appearance and sourcing identical or similar wood too. If not, and if is as it seems it is a nice looking, but ordinary piece of furniture, (I agree probably Edwardian, but were around long before then and made afterward - still) there is no reason MDF should not be used as a base for cushioning, especially if the upholstering was fully enclosing.
As it happens I reckon MDF would not be the right choice on this piece anyway as it would not give the right sort of support unless sitting on a framed substructure and if I were to build that anyway I would just use slats (or whatever was close to the original construction).
It's horses for courses as always - I hate to see fine pieces of furniture butchered through ignorance or laziness, but I see no reason why plywood or MDF or radiata pine or other materials should not be used in restoration. In the same vein - if it is a high quality piece then the restoration should be at the same standard.
The material used needs to be appropriate of course - just as furniture makers have always used offcuts and different timbers for blocking and drawer sides and cupboard backs and runners etc we should be comfortable using modern materials in the same way.
My point is that purism has its place, but so does pragmatism. It's a personal line to draw, but automatic antagonism to new materials makes little sense to me, especially where it is hidden. This is the approach taken by furniture makers in the past who made the decision based on the client, the intended use and the costs involved - we should do the same.
But it's always our choice.
"But it's always our choice" .[/quote]
Pointy taken blossy, ok i'll bite, (this discussion ideally needs it's own thread, apologies and cowtows to wasnme for the crossfire/ hijack) however, and to ram home a very pertinent point, in our business (as should be with all quality restoration processes), we think of the next restoration the piece will undergo whether it be 10 or 200 years.
We sign & date all our work in light of this, as was with recognized cabinet makers, craftsmen and restoration houses of the day. (a rare practice today due in part to your "pragmatism" approach)
It's a wonderful feeling to know that with the right signature you won't happen on any "short cuts". We've been on the wrong side of this feeling from time to time and it's not nice I can tell you. More often than not we subtly recommend the "expert" opposition for these nightmares:cool:
There's a marked difference between chipboard/ mdf/ and ply (veneered or not) to a rough sawn piece of fruitwood backing or blackwood/ celery offcut.
Informing/ recommending a customer to take short cuts or use inferior material is totally unprofessional and a practice we abhore. If you/they can't afford to do it properly then don't do it at all.
You did mention the B word. :no:
Choice? now thats what johnny howard told us and look what happened !:D
You wouldn't own a woodchip mill or be a federal member for the environment by any chance? :rolleyes:
cheers
I knew someone would bite. :U
We seem in furious agreement - it's a matter of judgement on the quality of the piece being restored and how much effort and cost should go into it. A restorer (like endgrain or a simple woody like me) will likely have off-cuts and odds & ends of good timber around the workshop, an irregular or novice DIYer will not.
As to my choices - I am in the middle of restoring a 3m x 1.2m WR cedar two leaf extension table my Dad had made from large pieces salvaged from the counter of the Bank of NSW in Bathurst in the '60s - at that time 90 years old. The migrant cabinet maker used some reasonable wood to make the slides etc (mostly silky oak), but in fact did a pretty lousy job on the construction and the finishing. I have dismantled the table and am restoring it - and will do so to a quality that I will be happy to sign and date.
BTW - I would never suggest that anyone should use short cuts or inferior material - rather that these are value judgements to be made based on an assessment of the piece to be restored. Items taken to an experienced restorer would usually demand highest quality work - others might be better done up with a few screws, some glue, some patching and a coat of paint.
And that's all folks - distorted this thread enough I reckon. :jacked: (And I'd still restore the chaise longue!) :2tsup: