Printable View
I used a product in the US called "Good Stuff" on a butcher block rolling kitchen island. The finish has been scrubbed off by enthusiastic scrubby pad usage and I'd like to renew it.
Anyone know where to get this product or a comparable urethane gel? Anyone using compatible stuff that they like on butcher block? My definition of butcher block here is fingerjointed, laminated maple, not end grain (pro-style block).
Thanks.
That poly that has rubbed off in now in the digestive system's of your family - not good.
Poly is not the correct finish for a cutting board - do a search of this site there are tons of threads relating to this.
Sorry, I didn't explain well. It isn't an actual cutting board, it's more like our dining table. And the finish I used is not polyurethane, it's a urethane gel. Different things. I will take another search and see if anyone has used a urethane gel. Thanks.
Eli,
Thanks for the link to that website. I've had a browse of what's there.
Personally, I'd be using Mineral Oil (hopefully that's the same as parrafin oil here in Oz) rather than The Good Stuff.
Have you read the MSDS sheet for The Good Stuff? After reading that, it's not something I'd be using on a food preparation surface:no:.
However, if you are using the Butcher's Block as a table i.e. eat off plates not the Block, then I don't see any problem with using The Good Stuff again.
Cheers
Wendy
Mineral oil (I guess Parrafin oil here) is the perfect thing to use for a cutting block, if you don't mind putting it on all the time, the wood darkening, it being a rough surface, etc. This isn't a cutting block. I don't actually put any finish at all on a cutting board or block. I just make a new one when they bite the dust.
This is a table surface, but we don't usually make practice of eating off of the actual surface, or preparing food on it. Most of the time I can get the kids to use plates.
I have read the MSDS sheet. I do wear a mask and gloves when applying this and most other substances. "Good Stuff" is a field application for sealing the surfaces and edges of factory butcher block surfaces that have been cut for installation. It's proprietary from the block company in the link, but recommended by most of the other block surface manufacturers in the US that I've seen.
For my purposes, it is as close to inert as it needs to be. I appreciate the health concerns, but really, I'm more than totally happy with the product (it performs very well) and I was just trying to find it or it's analog here. I guess I'm not going to. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli
Sorry mate it is poly. Don't believe the label -
http://www.collegedale.com/PDF/techdata_maple.pdf
Urethane is an abbreviation of polyurethane ( there is a difference but I doubt that you will be coming across urethane as a commercial finishing agent of wood or anything else.
Funny thing is I did a search for a MSDS or fact sheet for Durakryl 102 - nothing published.
I suspect that they have use a standard alkyd poly and labeled it as a "Proprietary Product"
It does make you wonder about their claim that "an independent test has proved that it is non toxic" without seeing the results or a proper manufacturers data sheet.:rolleyes:
It probably is fine , they're probably protecting their commercial advantage of a product name.
The joys of being a woodworker :D I'll just make another one.... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Eli
Please would you be willing to teach my step-pair of messmakers how to use plates :rolleyes::(Quote:
This is a table surface, but we don't usually make practice of eating off of the actual surface, or preparing food on it. Most of the time I can get the kids to use plates.
Sorry Eli, I don't know of an equivalent product here.Quote:
I'm more than totally happy with the product (it performs very well) and I was just trying to find it or it's analog here. I guess I'm not going to. Thanks.
Good Luck!
Wendy
where is a link for the MSDS I was typing surfinf away as you posted Wendy.
http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/msds-sheets-40/
An MSDS for a substance is not primarily intended for use by the general consumer, focusing instead on the hazards of working with the material in an occupational setting. For example, an MSDS for a cleaning solution is not highly pertinent to someone who uses a can of the cleaner once a year, but is extremely important to someone who does this in a confined space for 40 hours a week.
I'm not applying the stuff twice a week, In fact, since I made the table, I've only coated it once, and that was four years ago. Pretty limited exposure. I'm sure we could find some equally toxic things around everyone's house.
But you're right, which should be gratifying.
Urethane gel is a form of polyurethane, just like the foam in your car seats, or some carpet backing, the rigid foam in a refrigerator, the padding in a brassiere, bedding, upholstery padding, all are forms of it. Again, I've analysed and accepted the amount of risk involved in using and living with the product.
Thanks Eli for that link, upon reading it seems like a good product if the finish is what your after.
so after all the kerfuffle my recommendation for a substitute here in OZ is Cabot's Gel poly - comes in a satin or gloss. I use it on my kitchen benches and needs re-doing every 3 -4 years with gloss - you probably will get longer with a satin.
BTW I would never use parafin oil on my cutting boards - yuk! I leave mine untreated.
Excellent! Thanks for the rec. I'll surely give it a try. Does the gloss show scratching readily?
Mineral Oil never dries, whereas the 100% Pure Tung Oil is a "drying oi" that will cure, it is also considered a "food safe" coating.
MacS
Got a brand name for the 100% Tung Mac? And maybe a link to a source of it being food safe, for me to read?
Cheers,
E
Eli,
Lots to read here, it will answer all your questions.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...details%23tabs
http://mastergardenproducts.com/tungoil.htm
MacS
Cool. Thanks Mac.
Eli,
I'd be very interested to hear your final decision on re-coating the butchers block. I was looking at my pine laminated kitchen island benchtop this morning, hating all the scratches in it, the finish wearing away... and started thinking about what I'd refinish it in. I have to confess I started thinking hypocritcal thoughts, and then realised that the answer's probably so similar to what's been discussed in this thread. :doh:
So, I'm very interested in hearing what you end up doing with your Butcher's block.
Thanks
Wendy
Well, I liked what I heard about Cabot's poly gel from BT, but I have plenty of Tung oil right out in the shed, and I'm ashamed, I hadn't even though of it.
My preference would really be to use the exact product that's on the top right now (and still doing quite well on the sides and bottom), but that's not going to happaen, as it'll be a year at least until I go back stateside, and I'm not sure how jazzed everyone would be about that being in my luggage anyway...
I might try the Tung, just because I have it. Maybe I'll try and get it done this weekend, and report back. I'm moving house in a couple weeks time, so I'm also inclined to (see signature).
Eli, I would have thought that to apply the oil after you have" urethaned" it you would have to sand back every last trace of the finish so that it doesn't go all patchy.
Do a small test patch first.
Well, it's almost totally cleaned off the top. Wouldn't take the Rotex very long! When SWMBO sponges dinner off it I swear I can see the grain raising in a few places.
I'm with you, my concerns with Tung are: incompatibility, and darkening. The top is maple and the Urethane Gel didn't really darken it much at all, it's been a nice mellow color. Not the end of the world if it did. I should just do it.