Is there any trick to doing this accurately. I'm about to embark on adding skirtings to a rather convoluted house and so have lots of mitering to do. Can't quite see how I can creep up on the length as when it's too long it won't fit at all.
cheers.
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Is there any trick to doing this accurately. I'm about to embark on adding skirtings to a rather convoluted house and so have lots of mitering to do. Can't quite see how I can creep up on the length as when it's too long it won't fit at all.
cheers.
I was going to say measure twice and cut once and if still in doubt measure again. But no doubt you know that.:D
Actually there shouldn't be that many mitre joints and that would only apply to external corners.
For internal corners you have one piece square as normal and the other piece scribed and cut to fit the shape. I use one of those gadgets that have many pins that you push into the shape to scribe the shape of the skirting and then use that to mark out the scribe on your skirting.
Peter.
My skirtings are simple square (no bevel or anything). Would the non mitred look still look OK - and why do you need them mitred on the obtuse corners if not on the acute - oh, just thought - because of end grain? If MDF can be said to have such a thing.
And another quick Q. Joining to lengths of skirting - I've got a room longer than 5.4m.
Oh - and the measure twice and cut once - I do already know that one. Measure. Cut it. Find it doesn't fit and measure it again to see why I got it wrong.
If they are square, then you can just butt them in the internal corners. Presumably you will paint them anyway. External corners should still be mitred. I usually do a scarf joint on long runs.
As for cutting to length, if you are within a mm it will be fine. Not something I've ever had trouble with, I think you'll find it easier than you think.
All my skirting boards are timber with rounded edges and that would make a difference of course.
But the main reason is that in practice no room is square and all corners are always out a few degrees. This method takes that into account and give a neat finish.
As to the external corners most skirting boards have a cut out shape along the back running about halfway along its lenght. Don't know why but they have this but even the MDF ones have. Mitering them will avoid seeing that gap.
There have been previous posts on this by better experts than me, so a search may throw up more for you to study.
Peter.
Hi
I kind a remember being told that the correct way to do skirts is to cut one side to length and cut square and then the other is cut its full length as well and then shaped to fit over the profile of the other skirt that is nailed down.
Kinda like this Attachment 45241
Or maybe that was part of the dream I had, the one with madonna with her hard hat, boots and sally sheep
:AO:
Yes, that is what is known as 'scribing'. But if your skirting is square, then scribing is as simple as cutting it at 90 degrees and butting it.
That groove is for the edge of the plaster to sit in if it's slightly proud of the wall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturdee
Thanks, I've always wondered about that but was always afraid to ask, at last I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
Peter.
I put my fear behind me and asked Brian at the Triton club meeting when he was showing us how to make your own.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturdee
:wink:
I had a nasty experience where I had a toilet resheeted and went to put in the skirtings myself. I cut them all beautifully and checked them in place and saw that they fit perfectly. BUT, when I started to put them in, there was distance between the sheet and the noggins/studs. Nailing the pieces in place pushed the sheeting out and made the walls "longer" creating large gaps between my accurate ends. So you might want to check for this problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
Steve
Thanks all for you replies.
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Re the skarf - is a 45 angle enough. I've got to do some mitres - that was my justification for buying a nice new hand mitre.
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I've already painted the skirtings but was planning on filling holes etc after installing and just painting those bits - I didn't want to risk getting paint on my newly completed floors
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I always thought the cutout was for a bead to have somewhere to sit.
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Dazzler - I'm not the religious type but I think I know the one - your in a stable - sally the sheep is there - probably a little put out because there's no longer food in the manger and the madonnas in the way ... wearing a hard hat and boots - must be doing renos? Are you one of the wise men?
That's all I've ever done. I fix the first length to the wall, with the 45 facing out, then the next length goes on over the top to lock it in.Quote:
is a 45 angle enough
Thanks Steve - that's a good one to check for and I wouldn't thought until I made a similar mistake.
Do people bog up the corners?
Nailing through the scarf into a stud I assume.Quote:
Originally Posted by silentC
Just put some newspaper under the skirting at the corners when you fix it to the wall. Then fill any gaps and paint them. After it's all dry, if the paper doesn't just slide out, cut it off with a sharp knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
You should be nailing into the bottom plate. I usually keep the nails back from the edge of the scarf to avoid splitting. You don't need the nail to go through both members because the one on top holds the one behind against the wall.
The cuts as described with a coping saw.
Just about to move onto the skirting boards here. As mentioned its a pretty straightforward job really. Little bit of filler here and there.
His skirting is square. :rolleyes: :wink:Quote:
The cuts as described with a coping saw.
Is that the same with mdf? Does it have the rigidity to hold it agaisnt the other piece. I imagine it wouldn't split.Quote:
Originally Posted by silentC
Yes, mine are MDF and that's how I did 'em. Don't think it wont split either, because it will. It really is rotten stuff...
It's not the same as the stuff you buy in sheets by the way. It's not as dense, more cardboard-like.
Old age isn't all its cracked up to be. I read that, and thought at the time no need for the coping saw, then got through to the end of the thread and wondered why no-one mentioned he needed a coping saw.Quote:
Originally Posted by silentC
I do the same under all the skirting boards but with plastic. When the paint is dry it is very easily removed with a sharp knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
Peter.
Originally posted by Sturdee
.Quote:
For internal corners you have one piece square as normal and the other piece scribed and cut to fit the shape. I use one of those gadgets that have many pins that you push into the shape to scribe the shape of the skirting and then use that to mark out the scribe on your skirting
Although not applicable in this case with the skirtings being square, when I am coping the corners I cut one side of the corner at 90 degrees and 1 side at 45 degrees. The profile of the cut on the 45 side is the line for coping the corner. Saves marking everytime.
The other trick when coping is to "back cut" slightly and leave about 1mm overlength. When fitting the coped corner, a little tap will crush the joint slightly ensuring it is a neat fit in the corner.
Regards
woodcutta
Basically that's all you can do to get a good finish back again if you end up with a gap. There's wood filler - sandable, but not that flexible, caulk in colours - sandable, paintable and flexible but not for wet areas, no more gaps type stuff - flexible, paintable but not sandable, no more gaps bathroom - flexible, OK for wet areas but must be painted within 48hr or the paint won't take. Probably there are a whole lot of other options I don't know about. Depends a lot on how much movement you are expecting and which room you are working in.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
Steve
No, I usually leave that to the painter:2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
Because of the flushing of gyprock the corners are not sq but are about 3mm proud over 300mm length
Internal butt joints are not so bad but external miters tend to open up at the front so when you measure them do so to the back of the miter and then cut at 46deg so the front points close up
a little no more gaps before you nail up and then clean up the squeeze out.
Beware of the orientation of your room also. As you enter the room, the wall directly opposite you should have the first skirt fitted, just cut square and butted against left and right walls. Then cut the left and right skirts at 45 deg (mitre them). Use a scroll saw and follow the profile of the skirt at the top of the mitre, back cutting a little so only the face of the scroll cut skirt is in contact with the skirt it is joining to. A good way to avoid bogging up is to take your time with scroll cutting and , as an example, when fitting a skirt to corner and the other end butts against an architrave, before marking the architrave side gently tap it with a hammer to snug the scroll cut skirt into the other.
I hope this isn't convoluted and confusing, 5 minutes live demo and all the guff above would be clear as day
good luck
His skirt is square. :rolleyes: :wink:Quote:
Use a scroll saw and follow the profile of the skirt at the top of the mitre
Thanks again all - thought I may as well post a follow up. Had to do a lot of planing of the base of the skirts as the flooring wasn't real flat - though some of that is because I can't help but view the finished job as if I'm looking at it like I'm working on it. ie from a foot away.
Didn't get too far with them. Mainly because after I nailed the first couple I realised the prepainted colour was wrong - too white. We have cypress pine flooring and nigh on white walls so it needs a stronger lead in - didn't want timber skirting as the cypress is a little too psychadelic to match timber skirtings - perhaps a simple grained timber could work. Anyway darker paint should be OK - we have used double strength of the walls but double nigh on white isn't quite enough.