Tas Oak Flooring on Existing Slab - Help Needed!!!

Hello,

I am new here, found your site via Google. I have been searching on here for a while for some info on a new Tas Oak Floor i want to install on an existing concrete slab. I want to use 85x12mm Tounge & Groove Flooring. I have been speaking with a few apparent professionals and they have been saying i should seal the slab and then use Bostic type Glue for the floor. I have a few questions, if anyone can help that would be appreciated.

1 - What sort of sealer should i use?? I understand it is a roll-on type like painting a floor.

2 - What is the best glue to use??

3 - If the slab is not completely flat how do i fix it?? Also what is an easy way to see how flat it is??

4 - I understand from the professionals that i should use light guage concrete nails every 450 mm for each floorboard and remove them the next day. Is this correct??

Any other info i need would be more than appreciated. (email address is [email protected])

Thanks

Nick Rayner
(New Norfolk, TASMANIA)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raynnick2121

Hello,

1 - What sort of sealer should i use?? I understand it is a roll-on type like painting a floor.

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Bostik make their own sealer that compliments their glue. Don't be talked into using cheap crap by hardware store salespeople. They are not the ones who have to live with a rooted floor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raynnick2121

2 - What is the best glue to use??)

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Bostik Ultraset. Forget cheap stuff like liquid nails or maxbond. Remember, you get what you pay for.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raynnick2121

3 - If the slab is not completely flat how do i fix it?? Also what is an easy way to see how flat it is??

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Use a leveling compound or have the slab ground to be + or - 3mm over a 1500mm area.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raynnick2121

4 - I understand from the professionals that i should use light guage concrete nails every 450 mm for each floorboard and remove them the next day. Is this correct??

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Not quite.

If I was you, I'd get a pro to lay it. You could do it yourself and stuff it up and then need to buy more Tas Oak ( Am I the only one that thinks Tas Oak is Crap for flooring?)

Direct stick is NOT for the DIYer. It is NOT even for some Pros.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raynnick2121

Any other info i need would be more than appreciated. (email address is [email protected])

Thanks

Nick Rayner
(New Norfolk, TASMANIA)

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See www.timberqueensland.com.au

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

Hi Nick, try this for some reading. http://www.timber.net.au/bulletin.htm

If I was doing the job.
I'd fix 12mm ply to the slab with splitz anchors over a .2mm poly sheet moisture membrane with a 200mm overlap. Tape the joins with Good quality duct tape. Then ultraset and secret nail to the ply.

Remember, I would be using REAL hardwood flooring. Blackbutt or Spotted Gum (G'day Bruce) or Gey Ironbark. Not Tassie Crap Oak.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Thanks everyone for your comments.

I have a few more questions/comments.

I am going to use the Bostik Glue & Sealer, i have decided on that!

I have a guy who has done quite a few of these floors and he will be doing it not me, thank god! I am not confident at all, although i will be there to help.

I don't like the idea of the ply on to the slab before the 12mm tas oak, raises the height too much... I think i will see how level the slab is, if it is ok, seal it, then i surpose i will have to leave it for a few days, they this guy will lay the flooring with my help/supervision, because i want it done properly.

Anyway Trevor, i have decided on Tas Oak FLooring as it is going to Match all the Tas Oak we have in our Kitchen, which is just being made (Or finished early next week), so i really have no choice. I am going Standard Grade 85x12mm. It is costing me $500 for the timber (Floor arear is 16m2). Timber is kiln dried to 10% so they say.......

Trevor, when you say tape the joins? Joins in the ply??

It is getting layed next Thursday!

Thanks again

Nick

G'day Nick.
No. The joins get taped on the Poly membrane under the ply.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

Do you think if i don't use the ply that it will still be OK????

Nick

As I said before..If it were MY floor............

Remember... I manufacture Hardwood timber flooring for a living.
I've seen all sorts of good and bad floor installations.

Now, having said that.........If it were my floor.......

Guess what I would do...

Hooroo

I have sealed the slab and purchased the timber. Now all i have to do is wait until Thursday until it is laid. I will take some photos for you guys to have a look at before and after......

Thanks Guys.........

Nick Rayner
(New Norfolk, Tasmania)

G'day Nick.
Mate piccies would be great.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

Ok here they are. All complete except the final finishing touches and of course sanding and polishing!

Seemed ok to do, took a whole day from 7:30am to 5ish to lay 16 Square Metres of Tas Oak Flooring. Here is what it has cost me to date:

Timber - $500
Bostick Glue & Sealer - $540
Labour - $300 Ish (Not quite sure yet!)

That doesn't include sanding and polising as this comes after when the Kitchen has been installed ! Next Tuesday the Kitchen goes in!

Anyway have a look at the photos..............

Thanks heaps for all help guys!

Nick Rayner
New Norfolk, Tasmania

G'day Nick.
Mate, Looking Good.
Even if it is Tassie Crap Oak. :D

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

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Originally Posted by glock40sw

Even if it is Tassie Crap Oak. :D

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I'm beginning to think mum's wooden spoon must have been make from it, you're always bagging it :)

I myself don't mind it at all...

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Originally Posted by ThePope

I'm beginning to think mum's wooden spoon must have been make from it, you're always bagging it :)

I myself don't mind it at all...

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I don't mind it either! It definately is softer timber!

Looks good i think, it will look even better when the kitchen goes in on Tuesday! I will take some more happy snaps for you guys who don't like the Tassie Oak "Crap"!!

Seeya

Nick Rayner
New Norfolk, Tasmania

Looks good Nick - must have been a bugger carrying around all those bricks though. There is an additive that you can use with Cabot's poly floor finish (CFP or something?) that makes the finish very hard and resistant. It worked well on our Cedar (very soft) coffee table - until our toddler got hold of it.
Cheers
Justine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by elphingirl

Looks good Nick - must have been a bugger carrying around all those bricks though. There is an additive that you can use with Cabot's poly floor finish (CFP or something?) that makes the finish very hard and resistant. It worked well on our Cedar (very soft) coffee table - until our toddler got hold of it.
Cheers
Justine

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Yea it was a bugger, but i would rather use these pavers than have the flooring all over the place (Up and Down that is). I actually said to the bloke who helped me lay them, there must be a hardener that you can mix with this Ultraset to make it go off quicker, because it takes ages, sometimes up to 6 and 8 hours!

Anyway, i am happy with it, as i said i will send through a photo of the kitchen when it goes in, now next Wednesday!

Thanks

Nick Rayner
New Norfolk, Tasmania

G'day Fullas.

Its just that I deal with REAL Australian hardwood every day.

Spotted Gum, Blackbutt, Grey Ironbark, Blue Gum, Grey Box, Grey Gum, Red Ironbark, Brush Box, Turp, and a host of others.

These are hardwoods for serious work. They are the hardwoods that cause you to break into a sweat just looking at them. You need really sharp tools for these legends of the Bush. They will out last you, Me, Our kids and Their kids as well. Tassie Crap Oak will most likely need replacing in 10 to 15 Years.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

ah now I catch your drift Trev...

hey Ray, seems me and you are into the girly man flooring :)

My apprenticeship is littered with orrible memories of real man's hardwood, I aint going back EVER !
I've paid my due's, now that I'm old and tired I'm finding much comfort in rad pine and the like.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThePope

ah now I catch your drift Trev...

hey Ray, seems me and you are into the girly man flooring :)

My apprenticeship is littered with orrible memories of real man's hardwood, I aint going back EVER !
I've paid my due's, now that I'm old and tired I'm finding much comfort in rad pine and the like.

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Seems that Way Pope! I don't work with the stuff, i have never used it, but i can say i am very happy with the floor, and alot of people are saying that they have Tas Oak Floorboard and they are extremely happy with theirs!! I can't back that with Expertise like Trev can!! LOL

Anyway us girlies better get to bed! I need all the beauty sleep i can get!

Seeya

Nick Rayner
New Norfolk, Tasmania

Quote:

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Originally Posted by glock40sw

G'day Fullas.

Its just that I deal with REAL Australian hardwood every day.

Spotted Gum, Blackbutt, Grey Ironbark, Blue Gum, Grey Box, Grey Gum, Red Ironbark, Brush Box, Turp, and a host of others.

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So whats your opinion of Jarrah which I'm laying next weekend (45m sq). Should I duck now and avoid the incoming:D :D :D

umm what other choices you got there Mark :)

Quote:
"Jarrah is Pussy-wood compared to these gods of the bush."

G'day All.
Actually, Jarrah is bloody hard as well.
Damn shame it's on the other side of the Island.

No need to duck :D .


Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton.

I'm also putting in a few squares of Karri as well as the Jarrah and for the price I'm paying I reckon it includes an import duty. :D

As promised everyone, here are the photos of my finished Kitchen, floor will look good when it is sanded and polished!

If anyone has any questions, fire away.........

Thanks

Nick
New Norfolk, Tasmania

Can't say I'm a fan of the wall colour but the rest is coming along nicely.
The green will probably grow on me when the whole thing is complete :)

Just for the record i din't pick the wall colour! Different isn't it! It was the wife...........


Nick