Using Clear Epoxy Coatings

I've been asked by a relative to create a top for his home bar using a slab of Rub Gum. He wants the finish that I use on the bar top to be alcohol and water resistant, so I'm planning to apply a Clear Epoxy to the Bar Top. I've got some West System Resin, so I got a pack of 207 Extra Clear Hardener. When I did a small test piece as a sample for my relatives to approve, I was very impressed as this was the first time I'd tried the clear epoxy coatings.

Unfortunately, my relatives didn't like the gloss sheen on the Clear Epoxy.

Does anyone know if there is such as thing as a satin finish clear epoxy finish ? Alternatively, has anyone managed to successfully rub back a clear epoxy surface to get a satin finish.

Thanks,

Roy

I'd use Wattyl Stylewood nitrocellulose lacquer. It will give you the same visual appeal, but it can be low gloss as you require.

It's offered, I think, from 0 or ten percent gloss right up to 95% in several gradients.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evanism

I'd use Wattyl Stylewood nitrocellulose lacquer. It will give you the same visual appeal, but it can be low gloss as you require.

It's offered, I think, from 0 or ten percent gloss right up to 95% in several gradients.

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Thanks for that suggestion. It looks like it might stand up to use on a home bar top. Unfortunately, I'm not equipped to spray that sort of product.

I guess I'll have to keep looking for alternatives. Thanks for the suggestion.

Roy

You only need an el-cheapo spray gun. Nothing super dooper for a one off.

It lasts in the gun for weeks between jobs. I just plug the vent on top with a blob of bluetac and wipe the nozzle after each spray. My gun is a TotalTools HVLP I think, maximum cost would have been $80, but thats because I was feeling extravagant.

On another thought, the can does say it can be applied by brush and roller.....

Same goes for Becker Acroma which I have used DM 307 and 30% gloss looks nice.
I have sprayed an entertainment unit that was a commission piece and a couple of other pieces of furniture.

You can also get water- based spray finishes too if you prefer,although haven't tried any myself.

I don't have a spary booth so did it outide, not ideal but can be done.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evanism

I'd use Wattyl Stylewood nitrocellulose lacquer. It will give you the same visual appeal, but it can be low gloss as you require.

It's offered, I think, from 0 or ten percent gloss right up to 95% in several gradients.

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I have to admit, Ive become a HUGE fan of NC.

There was a can I bought about 18 months ago after a turning session/lesson where it was shown to me to finish bowls and other semi-commercial turnings. Until now I've been using waxes etc for turnings and PU for furniture and perhaps boxes. It was sitting there looking for a use....

The other month I cracked it out for a customers job and BAM! It was so fast, so easy, so quick and flawless I couldn't find a single reason not to continue using it. The fact I dont need to clean up each time is an immense time saver. Other than it being highly explosive when its aeroled, its very very usable...

No blazing up while you spray gentlemen!! :roll:

aussieRoy,

I've used west system for the same purpose. Just rub with 0000 steel wool or 1000 grit paper after it cures. That makes a nice satin finish. you can polish or dull it by going up or down grits as you like. use a ROS as its bloody hard and takes plenty of rubbing.

As Elver suggests. Rub out the finish.

Becker acroma DM 307 is great for furniture but use there Poly for a bar top.



Regards
G

Yep, I rubbed down Estapol 7008 with 2000 grit wet and try on a bathroom bench top and it was perfect. Not shiny, but silky smooth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evanism

I have to admit, Ive become a HUGE fan of NC.

There was a can I bought about 18 months ago after a turning session/lesson where it was shown to me to finish bowls and other semi-commercial turnings. Until now I've been using waxes etc for turnings and PU for furniture and perhaps boxes. It was sitting there looking for a use....

The other month I cracked it out for a customers job and BAM! It was so fast, so easy, so quick and flawless I couldn't find a single reason not to continue using it. The fact I dont need to clean up each time is an immense time saver. Other than it being highly explosive when its aeroled, its very very usable...

No blazing up while you spray gentlemen!! :roll:

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Yep, NC is wonderful and precat lacquers like Stylewood are even better. But as I always point out in case anyone doesn't realise if you are using Stylewood without using an NC sealer first (like Wattyl Rediseal) then you are only getting half the benefit.

The thing I like most about NC lacquers is when you are done you are done.

cheers
Arron

ps if you decide to use Stylewood on an ongoing basis make sure you apply to the dealer for a discount. They should offer 60% discount on the retail price no problem.

pps apologies for perpetuating the thread hijack.

OSMO natural oil wax finish. German product available here, you can get the gloss level you want. Easy to apply. Goes a long way. Acid and alkali resistant, won't water stain, alcohol doesn't bother it. a bit pricey, but, like I say, it goes a long way. Another product which is supposed to be similar is Whittles wax. Never used that though.

Once you use it, you won't go back to anything else.

Cheers
Bevan

Yeh nitro is a great thing but it simply will not stand up as a bar topping.....a major part of the solvent used with nitro is alcahol.

AND it is not impervious....and it is nowhere near hard enough.

The reason why epoxy and two pack laquers are used for bar topping is that they are HARD and impervious and pretty well uneffected by water and multiple solvents.

One thing that must be understood...unless epoxies are specifically formulated they are very UV vunerable.
In the marine world, epoxes are used extensivly to stabilise and make wood impervious..but they are always overcoated with something to give UV protection

If you want a good hard durable finish for a bar top, my recommendation would be two pack polly eurathane..and spec it in the desired gloss level.......remember with care and carefull arrangement you can brush two pack pollyU.

cheers

Soundmans advice was good, but it had me thinking.

I use Wattyl Stylewood Nitro and I went to read a bit more about it. The solvents in that are alcohols, but not ethanol, the stuff we drink.

There are some seriously nasty warnings on the MSDS:http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/d...%20%20MSDS.pdf

I've made an absolute ton of things and sprayed them with nitro, including a workbench. It was sprayed over 18mm mdf. When designing for the dude who ordered it (it was for his farm shed) I poured metho (ethanol), turps (benzine), petrol (95) and oil (bog standard car) onto the surface and let it sit in a puddles. In the morning it wiped right off.

The Metho was Diggers, which is >95% ethanol. The remainder is h2o.

A tad stronger than ones tipple ;)

Im not familiar with the particular product you mention...what sort of nitro is it...plain ordinary nitro, pre-cataliased nitro, Post catalised nitro, two pack nitro or what.

Plain ordinary nitro and precat nitro in general have problems with alcahols various.

as for the toxisity of various thinners and paints....well toluine...is something ya don't want to suck too much of and there is some residual benzine in the hydrocarbon..usually some acetone...and paerhaps for a little extra zing a touch of methelene chloride......yeh ya don't want to be breating too much of this stuff


cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by soundman

Im not familiar with the particular product you mention...what sort of nitro is it...plain ordinary nitro, pre-cataliased nitro, Post catalised nitro, two pack nitro or what.

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Stylewood is a pre-cat. The tech sheet says it has excellent resistence to alcohol and moisture penetration. Nonetheless it also says its not suitable for kitchens and wet areas. Spec sheet suggests an acid cat for these. I guess it all comes down to how much of a beating its going to get.

http://systemselector.wattyl.com.au/...S/Stylwood.PDF

I find these tech sheets from Wattyl industrial to be fit to rely on, if not a bit conservative.

Cheers
Arron

any two pack or epoxy is going to have the same repair/refinish issue

Oops. I removed a reference to 2 pack poly and its repairability from my previous post when I reread the original post and realised the op wanted a satin finish. This left Soundmans post above lacking context - sorry.

Cheers
Arron

there is no reason why a two pack finish can not be satin........it can either be rubbed out....a matting agent added......or the product ordered with a specific gloss level

cheers