Time for another project or two......1800's Piano Stool

Well folks, after recovering from the desk project, and learning so much in the process, I feel the need for a smaller project or two to keep my hand in, and learn a bit more as I go from the wise ones on here!! :fingerscrossed:
I have my old piano stool, I think dating back to mid/ late 1800's, (the piano it came with when we bought it was dated 1860's) and it needs some work! Also, an old crappy little cute table I bought for $10 to practice a few things on.

So, first things first...the piano stool:

So....beautiful patina, (unsure what the timber is..any ideas welcome) but needs some work on the finish. It looks like it has been shellaced, and I think this is whats left of its original finish. Legs etc. are all still solid etc. Also, I need to re-do the seat upholstery. The leather is in good nick, but needs to be re-seated. Not sure how yet, but will research. However..problem...., the seat hinges have been put on the other side at some stage , around 40 years back from memory (been in the family for longer) as the original recessed spot has cracked (see pics) so now it doesn't even sit flush. I would like to fix the crack and re position it in a recess. Also, the timber on the other (now hinged) side has a large crack through , most likely from the seat being opened and pushed open too far. (If only I respected this frurniture when I was a wee lad!!! :-)

Ideas/ advice on any of the above would be great.

The little table..I'll do a separate thread....its more about practicing my finishing, and maybe a bit of glueing of old laminate.

So, whilst we wait for the likes of HC Dave & a few others to get some progress, here's a little WIP from me to play with.

Cheers folks, in anticipation of some fun and a good result! Lawry:)

Well, the good news is I've started. The bad news is that when I removed the seat section, I saw that part of the frame on which the seat webbing was tacked has been broken right off. The pics show the damage. What I don't know is the best way to attack this. The webbing has been tacked from the seat side, then tucked underneath the wadding etc. , so it sits well, but of course, this aided the splitting of the old timber. :(

I want to avoid removing the leather upholstry, and re-tension some new webbing from underneath, but looking at it, not sure I can short cut. I think I have to remove the whole thing and start over. :no: However, looking at the frame (2nd last pic) it does appear that the webbing was, at some stage (orginally perhaps), tacked from the underside, judging by the old holes.:? If I remove the leather and do it all from the top side, I'm not sure how I can re-fit the leather and tension it over the wadding. Never having done this before, I'm a little befuddled!
The pics show the broken off piece of frame, and webbing ,
Any ideas welcome. Many thanks, Lawry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

I want to avoid removing the leather upholstry, and re-tension some new webbing from underneath, but looking at it, not sure I can short cut. I think I have to remove the whole thing and start over. :no: However, looking at the frame (2nd last pic) it does appear that the webbing was, at some stage (orginally perhaps), tacked from the underside, judging by the old holes.:? If I remove the leather and do it all from the top side, I'm not sure how I can re-fit the leather and tension it over the wadding. Never having done this before, I'm a little befuddled!
The pics show the broken off piece of frame, and webbing ,
Any ideas welcome. Many thanks, Lawry

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Hi Lawry,
Google "Traditional upholstery DIY" and see what you find. Many years ago I found a local community house offering hobby courses including upholstery. There may be one near you.
What you have in front of you is not that difficult to master.
Everything starts from the bottom.
In order, Webbing. (No springs in your case) then burlap layer, wadding, calico then leather. Final step is calico across the bottom.
You can re-use most of what you already have. Wadding leather etc.
Try that Howards leather product first perhaps to soften it up.
Webbing is cheap and the so-called "Special" tool to tension it is easily made. I can help with pics etc on that one.
Use blue tacks, not staples please. Burlap and Calico both readily available.
Cheers
Jim

I don't know if it will help, but at the last Timber show in Brisbane there was a company selling upholstery stuff. I can't remember the name, but it was something obvious like The Upholstery Supply company.

Thanks Jim, .
You've just taught me something! I always thought the LAST thing to go on was the webbing, in order to tension up the whole kit & kaboodle.and 'puff up' the cushioning!:rolleyes: But if, as you say, its the reverse, then I think I have the makings of a plan of action!! I was hesitant to remove the leather and the studs, but obviously, thats how I need to progress. So...I'll do a bit of web surfing around traditional upholstery. And yes...I've saved as many of the blue tacks as I could so far, and figure I can buy more as I need them. Also, I think you're right that I can re-use most of the materials that are there already. Re the 'special' tool...would appreciate your pics etc. so I can have a go at making one.

Rhancock..I think the folks you';re talking about are Padghams upholstery...great people, great products from what I've seen, and I think also a supporter of this forum!? They are Melbourne based. I had a good chat to them at the Brisbane show....(in partcular about re-webbing an antique chaise i have to do some work on) but obviously I failed to connect with the lesson around order of work! :doh: Back to grasshopper status for a bit!

Thanks again guys. Lawry

Ok Lawry, here we go.
Attachment 215894
Sorry for the lousy photo but basically it's just a piece of 19mm radiata (Or whatever you wish to use. Approx 150mm long. Best to have the grain run lengthwise.
I copied the one my teacher at the time was using re shape but the only real requirement is that the row of nails across the top is roughly the same width as the webbing.
Predrill slightly for a row of say 2mm nails into the leading edge. Cut the heads all off and leave maybe 5mm showing. Then sharpen those ends with a file.

To use. (I'm referring back to notes I made 30 yrs ago)
Start with the new webbing folded over about 15mm on the far side of the frame. Use 3x 15mm tacks. (Buy new ones. They're dead cheap)

You use the tensioner by using the sharpened points to grab the webbing, and the opposite end on the rail hearest you. Use the leverage to pull the webbing tight. How tight.....good question. Not so tight you pull your frame apart but tight enough that you can feel considerable tightness.
Use 3 x 15mm tacks to attach to the frame whilst under tension.
Cut off excess leaving enough to fold the remaining back over the tacks and drive in two more 15mm in between the original 3.

When springs are involved you arrange the webbing so the springs are in a sguare of 4 runs of webbing, but in your case just copy the original spacing. Not critical.

Weave the webbing from both directions.

Next is the hessian or burlap tacked around the edge.
Usually horse hair was the next step, or coconut fibre for the non purists.
In your case skip that step and go straight to wadding.
The skill here is to lay the wadding out as smooth as possible.
When you then put the calico on, it should be as smooth as a baby's whatsit.

There is a little bit of skill involved with this step actually. But using leather as the final cover makes it easier. Normal cloth can show every little dip and bump. A "Cheats" way to circumvent a lack of skill is to cover the calico first with a thin layer..(4mm to 5mm) soft foam rubber with contact adhesive. Chamfer the edges with a razor blade so no edge is evident.

Next is the leather, pulled taught as you tack it down. Work it around as you tack.

A strip of leather folded around the edge and tacked down with decorative tacks finishes the top.

Lastly, flip the seat over and tack some calico underneath to act as a dust trap. Fold over the edges as you go.

This really is one of those things that is so much easier to show than describe. Maybe if you read this, then watch some U-Tube videos it might start falling into place.

Otherwise, just ask for more explanation.

BTW...my teacher told us a drop in seat from a dining chair is the perfect beginners project as it is small but has all the steps involved inc springs and horsehair. Your seat is easier again. You'll do just fine re-doing it. Just take your time.

Cheers
Jim

Jim.//huge gratitude for the advice/ lesson here! I'll be getting stuck into it in the next few days, work permitting! I'll have go at manufacturing my own tensioner too. I see that I was wrong about the need to tension into the surface material (leather in this case) and obviously, no need for anything more than firm hand pulled tension on that to tack down over the wadding. WIll post WIP as I go! As I removed bits & pieces from the bottom, I did take note of how they appeared to be put on, incliding folding over etc., so this will help as an adjunct to your tips/ steps. Quick question though..the broken piece of frame...looks so splintered that whilst I may be able to re-glue it, it wont actually hold any tension accept any tacks...I asume I just find a more intact part of the frame to tack into on that side? I know some would say this piece isn't worth the effort, but I reckon it looks great, and it has strong memories & sentimental value...when my parents & I first came to Oz back in '65, this (with the German Berlitz made 1870's piano) was actually the first piece of furniture they actually bought (other than basic table & chair setting to eagt on!) I learned piano before we arrived, from 3 years old, and continued on this beatifully carved piece until I STUPIDLY sold it a number of hears back as it was 'unable to be tuned to concert pitch any more...FOOL!! At least I held onto the stool..whilst nowhere near the value of the piano, it is at least something of my past!
Anyway, Cheers, & thanks again.!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

Quick question though..the broken piece of frame...looks so splintered that whilst I may be able to re-glue it, it wont actually hold any tension accept any tacks...I asume I just find a more intact part of the frame to tack into on that side?

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I think I should leave any advice in that area to people here who have much more experience in woodworking than I. You may be able to repair/replace/fill etc
I'm sure someone will help. A pic of the bare frame might help there.
But I thank you for asking.
It's good to have an opportunity to actually give something back for a change on this forum.

Jim

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Originally Posted by Grandad-5

I
It's good to have an opportunity to actually give something back for a change on this forum.

Jim

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...I know what you mean..& its appreciated, Jim!! :):):) Lawry

Hi Lawry et al. So i have just read through the story so far re your stool and totally understand the reasoning behind wanting to repair it properly. Family memories are often the best reason for retaining and caring for such things.

Jim's description of how to repair/recover the seat padding is spot on from my very limited experience in this area. Last year, I did an Adult Ed course in furniture upholstery and re-covered my chesterfield. When I started the course I had absolutely no idea how to do it, but by the end of the course I had the basics down ok. Er in doors, on the other hand is a dab hand at this sort of thing having recovered/repaired, a ladies chair, ladies couch, double end (early colonial) couch and two lounge chairs (all antiques).

Would be interested to see a pic of the broken/splintered frame to see what might be possible.

Looking at the stool, I have been pondering what sort of timber it might be and to be honest I am not sure. Hazarding a guess, I would tend to suggest at a pinch cedar, but possibly/more likely, some sort of hardwood (oak - Aussie not English), or alternatively blackwood ??. It could even be mahagony but I can't tell from the pics. Either way though yes given the design, almost certainly it has been french polished (shellac finish), so and given your non Grasshopper status in this department that should be quite achievable.

Looking at the seat hinge area, my suggest would be to glue it, using something like the Selly's product I mentioned in my thread. This glue is super strong. But in repairing it, clamp it, after squeezing in glue and wiping off any excess. You could also perhaps (and I say that flinching), also add a couple of fine brads or tiny nails or fine screws from the inside to give horizontal pinch/strength to the area, given it has previously cracked. If you do this, make sure the heads are not visible, so counter sink and putty up the holes. I would only go to this step if you are concerned that glue alone won't make the original hinge area strong enough. If the screw holes themselves are too flogged out for the screws you have, I think (and others might have better ideas), is (a) to use a slightly wider diameter/longer screw or possibly fill the holes with a hard product, the Selleys glue might work (as I say it is amazing stuff) and then simply re-screw into it.

As ever all the best with the project, and keep us all posted how it goes.

Thanks folks..will remove the leather today/ tomorow & post pics of the frame + splintered piece. Will also have a go at gluing the hinge area as suggested. Whilst these tasks are in progress, I might even have a go at working on the finish on part of the main stool box. Onwards & upwards!! Lawry

Another one to follow. :2tsup: Is this going to be a house full of furniture? :U

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Originally Posted by Christos

Another one to follow. :2tsup: Is this going to be a house full of furniture? :U

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Tikanis Christos! Wel..it has been a bit cold here in Brisvegas, specially down my neck of the woods, so perhaps some extra firewood if the projects dont eventuate accoding to plan!!!!!!!:wink: Good to see the voyeurs coming out of the woodwork :p Lawry

Evening folks! Friday! Took a long 5 days to get here!! :oo:

Quick WIP report. Removed all the upholstery and bit and bobs from the seat. This thing looks like an acupuncture model...so many tacks and old tack holes..more hole than wood in some spots. So, what I've discovered: Obviously, the broken section of the frame and its surrounds are quite weak. (last pic) I've also found, to my dismay, that the other side of the frame (lengthwise) is showing signs of similar splitting. (2nd & 3rd pic) :~ My guess is too many tacks ov er the years, and maybe over tightening of the webbing at some point in history. Anyway..what to do??????:?:? All I can think of at this stage is to seat the new webbing, and thus the upholstery, further out into the frame..maybe a cm. or so form the cracked areas. I still would like to keep this as original as possible, but have also wondered about maybe not using webbing at all, and simply tacking in a piece of board underneath. Yes I know...violation!!!!!!!!:o As always, input very welcome.
Wife has just entered the cave & suggested its time I came up for a drink...hard to argue!!! :B Cheers, lawry

G'day Lawry.
I was really hoping someone with more experience would offer some advice on how to repair that frame. Maybe if I try someone will jump in and correct my advice.
I have nil training and very little experience in restoration work so most jobs I tackle start with a lot of head scratching and pondering of how I might accomplish what I'm trying to do.
If that frame was sitting on my workbench I think this is what I would try.

Re-glue the loose bit with something strong like Gorilla glue. Then mix up some epoxy resin and try to fill all the old tack holes. Maybe mask off the "good" areas of the frame. I'd probably try to be a bit generous with the epoxy and really squeeze it into the holes. After drying I'd use the steel from an old plane I have here as a scraper to scrape the excess off and give me a level work area. Remembering that it's all going to be hidden with the upholstery.

Ok...Working on the principle that "That ought to work", I hope someone will come in with a better method. My method sounds just a little butcher like. Because it is.

Cheers
Jim

Hi Jim! Thanks for your reply and suggestions . My main concern of course is around the resultant strength post-gluing, and will the frame take the tension of new webbing (& a few large deriers to follow no doubt!) The problem with the broken/ cracked areas is a fair bit of splintering of the wood fibres (hard to see in the pics) and this might make the job dificult. I do agree, that filling all the tack holes would be useful (& HIDDEN) so I'm quite sympathetic to your ideas here! Will mull for a short while, and hpefully someone else may have some additional thoughts. Meantime, I need to go source new webbing etc. Not sure where around south brisbane yet. Cheers, Lawry

Hi Lawry, just managed to catchup on the latest episode re this stool, and especially Jim's advice. I actually think his advice is perfectly sound. I know it may sound a little simplistic, but actually it should work. Ditto I think what you are suggesting regarding putting the tacks a little further out makes sense.

My take on perhaps why the wood may have split is (as yours) that either someone when previously re-upholstering it, got a little carried away with the tensioning of the webbing, and/or some of the webbing was loose, and allowed parts to sag. Also perhaps someone sat down on the stool a little too hard.

I think the key to being able to recover correctly (that is as it was with webbing and padding) is for the frame to be made as strong as possible. I don't know if it might be possible to put a little bracing into the frame to help ??? Otherwise yes the only other way I can think of making this strong is to place a sheet of ply or similar on the bottom and cover with black cotton cloth (dust cover) to make it appear that it has been repaired correctly.

I have seen this sort of problem in the past with other peoples chairs etc that needed restoration. The old swiss cheese damage to the frame always is an issue to be overcome. Look forward to the next installment.

Hey Lawry,
How goes the project?
Thought you might be interested in this.
Went to the local auction here last week and there was a piano stool on offer.
It appeared all original and I was interested to see the upholstery was nothing like yours. Just a piece of plywood with I presume some wadding on top then the leather.

Was described in the catalog as "1920's Blackwood piano stool"

I'm not in the habit of taking a camera to an auction so had to rely on my phone camera.
Attachment 217640 Attachment 217641

Quality of photos leave a lot to be desired but hopefully clear enough to see.
Opening bid of $120, nobody else interested, sold for $120

Cheers
Jim

Jim, thanks for this. It does look fairly similar to mine, although I have a ittle more 'curve' in the legs and scrolls in the turned handles which I think make mine look a little more interesting and appealing. Funny to see that it has a ply base to the seat..yes, I reckon not original, or if so, perhaps detracts a little from the value. The brown 'leather' on top looks similar to mine...I do to my dismay, believe it to be a good piece of vinyl, (it has a material/ mesh type backing , so assume its not leather) so am deciding whether to re-use it, or use a piece of tapestry style material we have leftover from an earlier dining setting re-cover.
Progress so far.....lots of thinking, and have glued in the broken piece of frame, and re-bonded the cracked timbers where the original hinges were recessed. Looks a bit untidy (my glueing) but will post pics soon. Anyway..all that will be hidden.
Interestingly enough, I have seen piano stools similar to this, and mine, in 'good' restored condition in antique dealers for the $300 -400 mark. Whether they sell at that I dont know!
So..best get on with the task then, now that HC has finished his table, we need something to chat about!! :wink:Cheers, Lawry

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

I have seen piano stools similar to this, and mine, in 'good' restored condition in antique dealers for the $300 -400 mark. Whether they sell at that I dont know!

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I'm 99% certain it was sold to a dealer so that's his wholesale price. Retail? Yeah, around the $300 mark asking prices sounds about right. Remember, asking price and eventual selling price can be two different things. Depends on the piece, time of year etc etc. Actually, one dealer once told me if a piece doesn't sell, put the price up.
Interesting concept.

This particular piece needed no work. A coat of Marveer and on the floor I would think. Dealers here don't seem to want to spend anything on what they buy. If it needs any restoration work performed they don't bid. Which of course suits me just fine because guess who then gets the opportunity to buy it? :2tsup:
Jim

[quote=Grandad-5;1527711]I'm 99% certain it was sold to a dealer so that's his wholesale price. Retail? Yeah, around the $300 mark asking prices sounds about right. Remember, asking price and eventual selling price can be two different things. Depends on the piece, time of year etc etc. Actually, one dealer once told me if a piece doesn't sell, put the price up.
Interesting concept.

I would be pleased to test this concept ! I've always had an inkling that this would work well on the human psyche!!

Also, I've yet to get to an antique auctionb, but it is on my 'do soon' list! Cheers, Lawry

You guys are both spot on, at an auction you generally buy at the wholesale price, that is unless a private buyer goes a little silly with the bidding, and that does happen. But it is a place where bargains can be found, especially project pieces. The table I just finished was bought for about $80 and I think that may have included the buyer's premium. Auction houses add both a buyers and a sellers premium in most cases, (well down here they do) which equates to about a 30% addition to the hammer price. That is what the Auction house gets for selling each piece. Then of course the dealer adds what ever they think they can get away with, which sometimes leaves a little room for haggling.

Auctions can be good fun, but my advice, from my experience is, do your homework. That is have a look around antique dealers, junk shops etc, to see what prices are being asked for what. You soon get a pretty good handle on such things. The other thing if you serious about going to auctions is check out books such as Carters Antiques guides, and/or even ebay. Both again will give you further insight into the market prices.

Also even just going to an auction without any intention of buying anything also will give you a good idea of how it all works. The auctions I have been to locally, after a while you get to know who the dealers are, what they are interested in, and how much they are willing to spend. That is when you are in a position sometimes to out bid them. The last thing is auction fatigue. If an item you are interested in, comes later on in the auction, you also often can have a good chance of getting it for what you think it is worth. Usually the dealers have got what they want and left or couldn't be bothered anymore, that is unless it is a really special auction.

Country auctions also can be a better option than say a city one as well.

Ok, Lawry it is your turn now, for as you say I have finished my current project. The next one I have is simply really only a stripping and repolishing exercise. No major repairs necessary as far as I can see.

So am looking forward to seeing how the piano stool structural repairs came up, let alone your re-upolstering. I need sometime to do that to some chairs I have, as the webbing, padding and covers are pretty knackered. I know that at least on one of the chairs a leg is wobbly as well.

OK folks....some limited progress. (pics attached ) Major cracks/ splits glued..all appears sound (although messy looking..but will be covered anyway) Ready to re-upholster. Thinking I might attach the webbing from underneath, which will minimise likelhood of strain re-damaging the framing.
Also, I have a few options on finishing the whole piece. The scratches on the stool are quite deep (from my childhood days...I remember being told off accordningly!):- and thus will not really benefit from keying back/ sanding unless I go so far that I remove all the patina, character, colour and a lot of timber!:o:o
So...as a guide, I've 'cheated' a little and used restore-a-finish on the whole thing. Looks much nicer now..but...(and I AM open to being chided here for my laziness:innocent:) do you think I should go ahead and key back a little anywayh, then apply a few coats of shellac? Or do you think the RaF has done an OK job, and just needs a coat or 2 of wax?

All being well, I'll have a go at the webbing etc. tonight.
Lawry

I am not able to comment but still watching. :cl:

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

So...as a guide, I've 'cheated' a little and used restore-a-finish on the whole thing. Looks much nicer now..but...(and I AM open to being chided here for my laziness:innocent:) do you think I should go ahead and key back a little anywayh, then apply a few coats of shellac? Or do you think the RaF has done an OK job, and just needs a coat or 2 of wax?

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Hi Lawry,
I really think that is a personal choice. Basically, if you're happy with the result that's all the justification you need.

I actually went out and bought some a few days ago after hearing you guys talking about it.
Tried it out on the lid of an old Singer sewing machine which was pretty knocked around.
I must say, I'm impressed. The finish isn't perfect by any means but it looks now like it's still obviously quite old and there is some imperfections in the finish but it now looks like all it's life it's been well looked after.
As opposed to the truth, which is it's been knocked around and neglected.

So I guess if I was to try to describe the effect I would say it brings a knocked around piece up to the level of well cared for but not to the point where it has obviously been restored back to it's former glory..

Would you agree with that description? Is that state of affairs satisfactory for your piece? If so....question answered. If not, go further.

Cheers
Jim

Jim, yes I agree with your description! Knocked around, but looking well cared for suits it well! The 'astounding' claims around RaF I think are a bit over the top. I do like it, and I have heard anecdotally that many antique restorers and dealers are using it on pieces that can be brought back to that 'well loved' old look without hours of keying back etc. I've used it on a few pieces with sucess, but certainly not the restored look. It would have been useless on my old desk for example!
So, yes, I need to comtemplate the very question you ask....Is that state of affairs satisfactory for my piece????? Well, I generally think yes, but I also wonder what some extra elbow grease would create? The little perfectionist streak in me is struggling, but I'll think on it !
My main issue is the depth of the scratches, which will not respond to the keying back process really, so in some ways, leaving well alone might be the order of the day!

A bit more progress! :U
Now that I've satisfied myself that keying the stool right back will really not be a good option (deep scratches, etc.) I decided to go ahead and have a shot at the webbing and upholstery.

Pics below show the new webbing in place (from underneath this time), followed by hessian to hold in the wadding. Then I put in the old wadding (underpinned by some dacron fill, as it had obviously compacted over the decades...and I needed to fill the space now the webbing is underneath) then a second hessian covering over the whole kit. Next step I guess is to cover it. UNfortunately, the 'leather' that was on it is actually too small (as I need to tack it in further out due to he timber cracks/ repairs etc.) and I have discovered it to be a vinyl (I assume no leather comes with a material webbed backing?) Either way, its too small, so now I need to consider what covering I want.:?

Keen on any feedback. ideas etc. Cheers, Lawry

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

I assume no leather comes with a material webbed backing

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Yeah, it comes from the same horses that have nylon mane and tails and plastic hooves.:D

I think your padding is sitting a bit high. Can you push it back down towards the webbing a bit harder?

Cheers
Jim

Hi Jim, yup....I have come across that breed of horse many a time!!

Re the pading..I figure I can do a bit of sitting on it to compress it. Otherwise, my only option is probably to remove the hessian and remove/ reduce the dacron. I'll have a go at sitting and see how that works. Also, I asume that whatever covering I choose, I can stretch that over to compress a little more?
Cheers,
lawry

Well folks, no I havent dropped off the edge of he earth, although thewe last few weeks that might have been a good thing!!

My old late 1800's piano stool is now done, and stands proudly in the baywindow of our formal lounge. Looks great on our brushbox floor! I've sat on it without that sinking feeling!!! I reckon it looks beter than when m family acquired it nearly 50 years back.

The pics attached show the finished piece, waxed, re-upholstered in a piece of gold velvet from my mother. It has a crease in it where it was folded for so many years (couldn;t cut out a piece without fold marks) SWMBO suggests I leave it and it will 'come out' eventually!
So, for those interested..what I did:

- removed the lid and all old webbing, wadding, cover etc.
- re-glued the broken sections of frame and split around the hinge recesses, and rear face
- re-webbed, put in old wadding with some extra, and finished with the velvet covering
- cleaned the timber with 0000/ spirits
- x(now this is where the purists may need to bite their tongues ) decided to NOT key back and re-shellac (reading the thread, you'll see I decided this based on the number of deep gouges a young angelic me, and no doubt many pre-dated owners 'added' to the piece...would have needed too much timber to be keyed off) so....tried a couple of applications of (dark oak ) RaF & was happy with result
- finished the whole piece with U-beaut Trad Wax, then buffed
- finished the top with gold braid and brass antique style tacks.

So....now to get on with the next project!!

Dave...time you got on with yours too mate!!

As always, thanks to all for your advice and help, and to those who simply enjoyed watching this thread! Cheers, Lawry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lawry01

Well folks, no I havent dropped off the edge of he earth, although thewe last few weeks that might have been a good thing!!

My old late 1800's piano stool is now done, and stands proudly in the baywindow of our formal lounge. Looks great on our brushbox floor! I've sat on it without that sinking feeling!!! I reckon it looks beter than when m family acquired it nearly 50 years back.

The pics attached show the finished piece, waxed, re-upholstered in a piece of gold velvet from my mother. It has a crease in it where it was folded for so many years (couldn;t cut out a piece without fold marks) SWMBO suggests I leave it and it will 'come out' eventually!
So, for those interested..what I did:

- removed the lid and all old webbing, wadding, cover etc.
- re-glued the broken sections of frame and split around the hinge recesses, and rear face
- re-webbed, put in old wadding with some extra, and finished with the velvet covering
- cleaned the timber with 0000/ spirits
- x(now this is where the purists may need to bite their tongues ) decided to NOT key back and re-shellac (reading the thread, you'll see I decided this based on the number of deep gouges a young angelic me, and no doubt many pre-dated owners 'added' to the piece...would have needed too much timber to be keyed off) so....tried a couple of applications of (dark oak ) RaF & was happy with result
- finished the whole piece with U-beaut Trad Wax, then buffed
- finished the top with gold braid and brass antique style tacks.

So....now to get on with the next project!!

Dave...time you got on with yours too mate!!

As always, thanks to all for your advice and help, and to those who simply enjoyed watching this thread! Cheers, Lawry

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Yeah yeah Lawry I hear you,....only kidding. Gee mate, that stool sure came up a real treat. I can well imagine how satisfying it must feel and look to you, let alone the family. That is a real credit to you. You have come a long way since you first started out with the English oak desk. No stopping you now. Me thinks I had better get cracking with my projects !!!

Cheers Dave...yup..love bringing it back into family use again!!!:U

Whoops, seems I missed the end of this project. Top job Lawry. That RAF is quite the gear. I'm starting to like it more and more.

Jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grandad-5

Whoops, seems I missed the end of this project. Top job Lawry. That RAF is quite the gear. I'm starting to like it more and more.

Jim

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Cheers Jim..yes, I think in certain situations, RaF is the go. Particularly if the actual surface is in reasonable condition, and the finish not too far gone! I'm re-webbing / springing some old chairs/ chaise I have in my office at the moment (mainoy due to the fact that I almost fell through one of them as the webbing gave way!!) , and whilst the timbers look good, I reckon I'll rub a bit of light oak RaF on them to bring them up nicely! I do however sometimes feel like a cheat with it, (but I can live with myself still!!!) :wink: Regards, Lawry