Finishing a chopping board?

Hi all,
I had a good search on the forums, but couldn't find the rights keywords to find what I'm looking for.

After having them lie around for about 5 years, I've finally decided to do something with two 2-3cm thick, 30cm round chunks of redgum, and turn them into chopping boards.

Lacking access to a thicknesser, I knocked together a router thicknesser over the weekend to make them nice and flat. But before I go too far down the line, what is the best way to fill the natural gaps and cracks, and then a final finish? I'm thinking some sort of food grade resin?

Through my searching I did find this thread, mentioned FoodSafe Plus from U-Beaut for finishing, but not sure how to fill the holes.

Thanks,
Mark.

watching with interest. At the same point.

Hmm, after a little more searching, I'm not sure its the right thing to do. I found this thread, which recommends not to use cracked chopping boards as it is a health risk.

I can certainly understand this if the board has already been used to prep food,
but does this hold true for raw timber which has not been used as a chopping board yet? Ie, is there a risk that other organisms have made a home in there already..

Am I better off not worrying about the food safe part of it, just fill with any old epoxy resin, polish and use as a small table or a trivet?

I was under the impression that wood was the best thing as bugs didn't like it. They were better than a teflon plastic one. Had something to do with the cuts on it. Wood would close when wiped down and plastic just stayed cut and let the bugs stay there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by _fly_

I was under the impression that wood was the best thing as bugs didn't like it.

---

As was I. However I seem to be a coming across a lot of references stating that badly cracked wooden boards should be thrown out or repurposed. No one seems to specify exactly why though.

My understanding of it is that if the cracks are big enough to hold bits of meat which can host salmonella etc then the board isn't safe. However if the cracks are tiny such as sharp knife marks then after scrubbing the wood fibres will wick away moisture and thus dehydrate and kill bacteria over a fairly short period of time. If the redgum is endgrain rounds then it can continue to crack and move whereas boards are much more stable. Filling with epoxy should do the trick.

That's what my assumption was as well Len. Most of the discussions I've found on this topic refer to repairing a damaged board, which would already have been used. On the thread I linked to, ubeaut makes a comment which implies a reference to a previously unused piece of timber for use as a cutting board:

Quote:

---

You obviously don't care about your health and safety or that of others. If you intend selling or even giving them away then I would think long and hard before doing it.

---

The timber is redgum endgrain rounds, which were immaculate 5 years ago, but after sitting in the garage drying, warping one way, and then (mostly) straightening again, cracks have appeared, some up to 2-3mm wide, and a couple have opened up all the way through. I was hoping that the timber would now be dry enough that most of the cracking has been done. But I suppose now if I fill it with epoxy and then oil and use it, the timber may well expand and start pushing out the epoxy?

This subject pop's it's head up from time to time. I've found it best to direct people to the UBeat thread Wood Kills Bacteria.

The fact it quotes the New York Times seems to mean something to people who get a little over concerned about the use of wood as opposed to all these advertised wonder chopping boards.

As for a finish, on ours I've never used a finish as it will get cuts and scratches, when they get a little heavy I just take it out into the shop and give it a light planing.

Most wood fillers are water based and non toxic. No trouble to use on a cutting board.

I would:
1. Coat with tung oil before using the filler.
2. Use the filler After the first coat so you can match the colour to the timber after it is coated as it will be different from uncoated.
3. Flood with tung oil, leave half hour and wipe the excess.
4. Leave 2-3 days before using. Tung oil is food safe, but it has to be 100% cured.

Butchers blocks were traditionaly made from Kauri, as were the old kitchen preperation tables, as were rolling pins, as were pastry boards etc etc. Why? Because timber and particularly Kauri, had anti bacterial properties in the timber.

Hi folks

Bumping this up

just made a couple of chopping boards with a couple of left over planks of mahogany. Being the novice i am i stupidly used timber filler and the laquered them and only now realised that it might be unsafe for food.

Is it possible if i sand out the laquer and simply finished them again with tungoil creating a food safe finish??

Or is there a food safe resin clear coat i could go over them with and seal??

any thoughts appreciated

cheers

Mat

I've had my chopping boards for about 15 years. When they get a bit 'ratty' out with the plane ..sand..and I use paraffin oil. Food grade stuff you get from the chemist.

Wash normally (not in a dishwasher) and rinse with hot water. Never had any problems.

I have a bit of european oak board (off cut from a boatbuilders yard)that I have used as a kitchen cutting board for over 35 years and it has no finish on it at all. Gets washed with the dishes and dries on the rack. Even been in the dishwasher a few times. I did rub it a few times with sunflower oil when new but after a few months decided it was not required. In all that time I have never replaned or resanded it. So far we have never caught anything nasty either.
Regards
John

It may be an idea to check the part re Tung oil being food safe, even when dry.
It is a sensitizer to many with sensitivities and being derived from “nuts” watch out for those with nut allergies.

Beauty!

thanks for the replies.

looks like i will plane them back and use a food safe oil

much thanks

Mat

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AngelaPetruzzi

It may be an idea to check the part re Tung oil being food safe, even when dry.
It is a sensitizer to many with sensitivities and being derived from “nuts” watch out for those with nut allergies.

---

That's a good point Angela! We have to look hard at what finishes we use these days with the types of sensitivities that have been identified.

I have one made of rimu 13yrs old its had a couple of resands and a good coat of canola oil rice brand is ok as well dont use an oil like olive as it can go rancid and taint the food ,U beaut food safe should be ok. In my opinion i woulnt fill it get another piece and make somthing ellse with the cracked piece but thats just me

Cheers Ian

Be aware that detergent will disperse oil quite effectively so if you coat your board with parafin oil or similar you can expect it to disappear after washing it in the sink. And you will need to wash your board if you are using it to chop meat. I have used parafin oil and it is safe and looks good, but only until you wash the board! I don't bother with the oil now now and the board looks fine. It is a chopping board so cuts and marks are to be expected, and you can naturally expect any finish you have applied to be degraded accordingly.

I had found a US uni did some tests and they basically found mineral oil or paraffin oil kills the timbers natural antibacterial properties. It is posted on the forums somewhere here.
Cheers

Does anyone know if Cabot 8099 tung oil is food safe. I have just been requested to make a cheese board for Christmas Eve.
I have a scrap of walnut to start with.
Thanks,

Nigel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nigel Chivers

Does anyone know if Cabot 8099 tung oil is food safe. I have just been requested to make a cheese board for Christmas Eve.
I have a scrap of walnut to start with.
Thanks,

Nigel.

---

Hi

Nigel and welcome,
So it's the 22nd December there right?

You would be better to use a product which says "Pure Tung Oil" or "Pure China Wood Oil."
Liberon make pure Tung Oil. You would be best to dilute it down 1:2 with White spirits then apply.
If you can use this method, you will have a dry food safe oiled surface by 12/24.

If you just apply it then let it dry, it may not be food safe come Christmas eve. In this situation, it needs at least 48 hours to cure and become food safe.

Regards and Happy Holidays,

Rob

I don't know what equipment you have in your shed,but if you have a router can you cut out the cracked section out say with a square trench cut bit, and then cut a piece from one of the slabs that are cracked all the way through,if you cut it a bit oversize you could sand it to a tight fit and glue it into place.You may be able to fit it in such a way that it would be a highlight

Hello,
The foodsafe finish - woodwipe - is a citrus and nut oil base. If people have nut allergies it could be a problem.
Having said that it is really good. The health safe finish is paraffin oil (medical standard) bought for a few dollars
at your local chemist. Sometimes referred to as mineral oil. About every 6 months or so I touch up our chopping boards and wooden utensils with it.
It is a fail safe and does not have the pungent smell of woodwipe. The problem with Tung Oil is that you have to make sure that it is
100% pure. If it has additives then maybe it isnt foodsafe. Drillit.

I've been making cutting boards and cheese plates for some years and the better they look at the start the more the receiver/buyer wants them to stay that way. Doing nothing is a good option and the board will age gracefully with use.

If you or the owner want the board to continue to look good and be safe there are some simple rules/options. Never cut meat on the same board as anything else. Sterilise the board from time to time by washing in warm soapy water then apply a layer of salt, rub it in and leave it for a while. Rinse the salt out. Leave to completely dry before use.

I always oil my boards. I have used Woodwipe mentioned elsewhere - its good (except for the nut issue). Howards sells "Butchers Block Oil" - also good. I now use Kunos Oil,a available from Natural eco paints, oils & products, healthy choice to acrylic & polyurethane - Livos Australia or if you live in or near Canberra they sell it in small jars at the Bungendore Woodworks. Easy to use and completely food safe and can add a shine to the new bord that other oils will not match. Mineral oil is also good, from your chemist or from U-beut. Not expensive and is safe.

The one thing I do tell my customers is not to re-oil with any vegetable/olive oil except grapeseed oil. My research cautioned that these oils can become rancid over time.

Never had a complaint.

hi all I do a few chopping boards this is what I use gluing titebond with the blue label as its food safe and butchers block conditioner as its meat safe, and food safe plus on wooden spoons