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Help me with installation pictures please.
I want to install a hinge pin door stop to prevent my door opening more than 90 degrees.
I do not want to install a floor door stop because someone may trip over it.
Where can I buy hinge-pin door stop in Melbourne ?
How to install the hinge pin door stop -right opening inwards door?
Are there right and left door versions of hinge pin door stops?
Learner,
never heard of/seen a "hinge pin door stop". Even if they are available I would be wary of fitting one as the door creates an awful lot of leverage on the hinge if you stop it back near the hinges, easily enough to bend the hinge/rip the screws out of the jamb/door/all of the above.
Mick
These are hinge pin door stop pictures. They are used in doors all over USA. But I have no information or pictures on their installation. May be their door hinges in USA are stronger and screws are longer and betterQuote:
Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/73...oor-stops.aspx
cool! Never seen them either. There is instruction on the site you linked. You need a removeable hinge pin and the stop fits on the pin. Like Mic said tho, you can generate a lot of leverage with a door and it looks like this type of stop creates a powerful fulcrum on the hinge.
Cheers
Michael
Okay, followed the thread. I don't care how strong the jambs are, or what size screws are used, I wouldn't fit them.
Mick
How would you limit a 180 degree opening door to 90 degree angle without a floor door stop someone would trip over? I need to limit the door opening to 90 degrees because I have heated towel rails protruding on the wall behind the door in the bathroom.Quote:
Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
Can you put a stop either on the door or on the wall which is long enough to prevent the door contacting the towel rail? Failing that, how about a door closer which limits the angle of opening.
Mick
Don't see them around here much anymore, although I haven't looked very close. Like they said, they put a horrendous leverage on the hinge, maybe even enough to wrench the hinge loose from the jamb. How about a rubber bumper placed on the door, exactly where it would contact the framing of the towel rail? If the doorknob hits first, might need to relocate the towel rail.
Joe
If big companies like Stanley make them they must work. Companies like Stanley would do calculations of forces acting on the hinge or they would have mass product recalls.Quote:
Originally Posted by joe greiner
IMAGINE A DOOR FALLING OFF FROM ITS MOUNTING HINGE ANd CRUSHING A PERSONS FOOT.
STANLEY WOULD BE SUED FOR DESIGNING A PRODUCT THAT CAUSED THIS INJURY
Besides there are hundreds of vendors and brands of this item in the US. So I am going to try them.
How many doors are failing in the USA because of the use of these stops?
Are our door fittings and door quality inferior?
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/73...op-658890.aspx
http://cgi.ebay.com/Multi-STANLEY-Hi...QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-hin...door-stops.htm
Settle down fella, no need to shout, we're just telling you a possible outcome of fitting this to your door. It's simple physics which tells you it must put very large forces on the hinges if you put a fulcrum like that so close to the hinge and have the rest of the door acting as a lever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
You might find years of trouble free service, but alternatively I reckon a boisterous child or an angry teen could work the screws loose pretty quickly.
Michael
Quote:
Originally Posted by mic-d
I noticed the forces are distributed by two sided stoppers. Look at the construction.
Draw a diagram explaining the force distribution.
It is not one sided force acting on the hinge. One padded bumper hits the door and other padded bumper hits the external frame
The only problem with hollow core door where one side of the doorstop would possibly punch a hole in the door if it was slammed. I have got this information from discussion forums.
Otherwise it works fine.
http://absupply.net/ives-69-hinge-pi...stop-9572.aspx
Sure, and I'm sure Stanley has never made anything that didn't work well or wasn't a very good idea.:rolleyes:. No one is saying they don't work, we're just saying they're not a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Or possibly their marketing department has done their calculations and worked out the profit to risk ratio is favourable.:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Like Mic-D said, simple physics means they're not a good idea. You could get a block of wood and put it in the right spot on a bank vault door, slam it closed and stuff those hinges up. Nothing wrong with the strength of the door or the hinges, just asking them to withstand forces that they are not designed to withstand. Go ahead and fit them and good luck to you.:doh:
Mick
Adding to this information the forces appear to to be distributed evenly on the centre of the hinge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Sorry to disagree, the force is not "distributed", one stopper sits on the door, the other on the wall, that's a simple fulcrum and it makes a class one lever, with a mechanical advantage of around 10:1 ( assuming the pivot is 75mm from the hinge and the door is 750mm wide). That's a pretty powerful lever and even more powerfull if the stopper is even closer to the hinge. It means that any force applied to the latchside of the door is multiplied by 10 at the hinge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Cheers
Michael
I agree with the fulcrum comments, the door would get loose hinges. A floor mounted door stop can be installed further up the wall or to the top corner of the door where it is out of the way.
I can only recall seeing these fitted to light duty doors, are they really intended for heavier doors?