kitchen solid bench top corner problem.

Another issue concerning the kitchen I was hoping to discuss.

The plan is to have a blue gum bench top 600mm off the wall.....

Going to make it up out of 1 1/2 x 8" boards.....Corners a problem as you'd all know.....and I shouldn't even bother mitring it.

Mentioned it to me boss, and he agreed saying to just butt it. But I think that looks like caveman stuff.

So, I was playing with the idea (don't laugh) of edge joining some of the offcuts like in the sketch, so it looks right....and cut it curved (the latest thing she wants).

So we're looking at 1200 wide before it hits the oven ? .....You reakon I can control that kind of movement in kiln dried blue gum ? :-

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Originally Posted by apricotripper

So we're looking at 1200 wide before it hits the oven ? .....You reakon I can control that kind of movement in kiln dried blue gum ? :-

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Yep, with a veneered torson box D

http://www.tastimber.tas.gov.au/Spec...fs/Bluegum.pdf shows movement between 5 and 25% moisture Content as 049% radial and 061% tangential for each 1 % channge in moisture content. That is 5.8mm for 1200 mm of quatersawn or 7.3mm for flatsawn. You will need to seal it well to minimise changes in moisture content. It will dry out qhicker near the oven of course and tend to shrink. Don't know if this is much help but it does give you an idea of total movement.

Ta. Too late on the torsion box.

Thinking just pin it well to the wall side, and let it slide enough through screws.

Its a darker species of blue gum I think.

Just kidding with the torsion box crack. I assume the 1200 section is against a wall? What about a dovetailed or breadboard style trim piece attached to the wall could make it slightly proud bit of rounding and it might allow for movement and give a nice finish, perhaps continue all around the edge. hope you understand what I'm getting at.

Cheers Mike

I wasn't shore if you were kidding . Had me going. started googling for 'kitchen torsion box' you did. :D

think I know what you mean about the breadboard....trying to keep it flat, whilst letting it move, you mean. I'm not sure if thats necessary or not.

I suppose it all depends on how much the wood wants to cup.

Hang on. I might checkout the other links below as well (to add to my confusion :D)

Hmmm...6-7mm of movement over 1200 thats a lot to contend with. I wonder how much moisture variation you would expect in a kitchen. I think you need better advice than I can give:-. Good luck

I don't know. Sounds like you probably know more about it than me mate. Good to get input from others. Appreciate it.

I've built a few tables before. But this is my first kitchen with solid tops.

Id make up a corner piece using 2 x 22.5° mitres, the wood will "flow" around the corner.
Its what I've done for my kitchen.(a WIP)

ta Harry. I'll have a look for your WIP

I can't find it. But are your saying both your benches are cut at mitres? Then you've got 2 x 22.5 mitres in between?...epoxied up ?. Wondering how wide and thick your bench is. And what timber.

Actually, now thinking I could get away with mitring it, because its just a small ajoining piece. Heavily joint this mitre with deep tongues and epoxy, and just let this small piece (600mm of it) move off the wall, so the mitre doesn't open up. Cover any gaps that appear at the wall with moulding. What do you think ?

Jake

How about a pattern based on parquet flooring? I have attached a picture before rounding of the corner.

Maybe. Thanks Jeremy.