"but just in case to answer your question definitively - I want a house that lasts"
Then my strong suggestion would be to do the research, and paint..
"but just in case to answer your question definitively - I want a house that lasts"
Then my strong suggestion would be to do the research, and paint..
Enfield guy you are of course entitled to your opinion but the thread is intended to focus on a specific technique that does not involve paint and a specific subset of that technique that specifically seeks to avoid applying a liquid to a substrate. I'm not sure if you're just having some fun with me but obviously if I wanted to use paint (a synthetic film forming system that breaks down over time when exposed to sunlight, moisture, impact or substrate expansion and contraction) then I would of course paint... but I don't want paint or the maintenance that comes with it. Trying to convince me that it's a better choice or that there's no maintenance with paint doesn't really help enhance the thread.
Cheers
Done in the style, not sure about if it is genuine SSB or not. Am told genuine is super expensive, and this is an expensive area, so anything is possible.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3a331d9614.jpg
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Interesting. I was just wondering if our Japan-resident forum items could answer the question of whether they actually see any real examples in their travels.
Also, my wife watches that ‘tiny houses’ reality show on TV and twice lately there has been ones done with some measure of SSB. I only really watched one and it seems a couple of guys scorched the outside with a blowtorch. The timber had quite large knots which didn’t take to the burning well,so the knots just showed through as round brown things against a black background. I think it was just a very shallow scorching, but still they were convinced they had done SSB and that was that.
Like I said I can't tell if the house is genuine, I suspect the fence is not.
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Link works fine for me
That’s strange - Safari
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Hi Guys, I put some time into the same thing a short while ago for a new house we almost built.
Same thing as above, wanting no maintenance, but something unique, and I love to build stuff and do things myself.
I've attached some pics and a video of what I build to add speed and consistency, and with the view of maybe doing some for others for a bit of pocket money. As mentioned above, no one does it in Aust, or at least never used to, and the few places I spoke with had black finishes available, but not in the same vein as Yakisugi, and nearly always aimed at interiors and architectural larger buildings.
As I understand it, its the char that does the protecting, there might also be some creosote conversion with the sap and the heating charring process that adds to the level of protection available, and why some timbers are chosen over others.
Anyways, keep up the commentary, its nice to see others with an interest is things like this.
Video not working - at least not for me on iPad. I would love to see it.
Cheers
Arron
No idea Arron, not an "I" person, but I know it works on several other computers.
Some extra info I forgot to add, was a lil short on time.
Timber in the pic was a poor defenceless piece of finger joint pine, yes I know that's not suitable, but it was at hand after setting up the feed pinch rollers for testing.
The designed feed rate is 1m/min, the feed rate for the defenceless pine was 2m/min, after seeing the pine erupt into flames with a quick "lets poke this into the end of the now orange inside furnace" i felt it best to run it a full speed.
I have some Box or Gum to try, and maybe some Kwila, but not gotten back to it. I've been slack fitting up a pyrometer to set a known temperature and maybe save some Gas.
Anyways, I thought the surface finish was exactly what I was aiming for. I don't really know, but I imagine the heat the timber is exposed to in the furnace is probably in the ball park for SSB, the traditional Japanese stuff done as three boards in a chimney and it going mental flame wise after only short while, makes me think the furnace approach is suitable. Another reason was that if the boards are cut to length first, the ends also get charred and protected all in one go.
Late to my own party but Mick C thanks so much for adding to the thread.
Your pictures look great and the rig you've constructed makes me jealous!
(the video works for me and it's very inspiring)
The finish in your second picture is great... how robust is the finish?
(I'm guessing not great on pine)
You said for a house you 'almost' built... what happened to the rig in your video?
Did you end up using it for yourself or anyone else?
TC
Hi All, sorry for the tardy reply, seems some alerts never made it through over the xmas break.
Still have the contraption, the furnace is sitting in the shed waiting for me to complete the pyrometer installation, probe fitted but needing the display mounted in a box and some connectors added. Am keen to complete that part of the project and run the hardwood through it rather than the defenseless piece of pine.
No idea on the robustness of the char finish on the pine, have not had a poke or dig at it, kind of didn't cross my mind to be honest, I kind of expected it to be a bit soft and to show bumps and scootches etc, but as suggested, it may very well be much more robust starting with some hardwood.
Long term I'd like to think we could do some cladding for whatever the next house ends up being, be it existing or perhaps a new cabin on a hill, prolly won't be able to help myself, everything will prolly end up covered in Yakisugi :roll: , and there is still the thought of being able to generate some additional pocket money, albeit on a small scale.
Once I get to run it again with the pyrometer working I'll post some more pics of the hardwood and have a quantitative poke at it for robustness for everyone.
Life seems to keep getting in the way of where we'd like to be, trying to sell a house for the last several years in a dead market, other half in and out of hospital for the last 18mths, block of land for the "almost house" up for sale trying to get to a clean and fresh starting point, but we keep crossing our fingers that things will start looking up soonish. :)
Cheers,
Mick.