These designs are covered by many US patents. The idea and theory has been tested and shown to be solid. Hinges do not fail
example
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/499...41&stemming=on
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These designs are covered by many US patents. The idea and theory has been tested and shown to be solid. Hinges do not fail
example
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/499...41&stemming=on
I did a search around but didn't find anything under that name in Oz.
All that the hinge pin does is act as a pivot point. The forces are distributed on the door and door frame edge or wall.
The bumpers (stoppers) are at the ends of a semicircle or arc. So forces are on the door and door frame edge or wall.
http://absupply.net/images/ives-69-large.jpg
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</TD><TD scope=row borderColor=#0 width="94%">Availability: Ships within 2-3 days from receipt of order.
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</TD><TD bgColor=#0d588e>Hinge Pin Door Stop
</TD></TR><TR bgColor=#0d588e><TD class=style78 bgColor=#ffffff colSpan=3 height=23><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=style34 width="71%">• Door Openings Adjustments: 70° to 100°
• For use on hinged doors where the installation of a standard door stop is not desirable.
• Positive slip proof adjustment.
• Non-marring rubber tips.
• Removable bushings accommodate 1/4" to 5/16" diameter hinge pins.
• Easy installation—only a screwdriver required.
• Made from burnished wrought steel.
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Building-re...-136469093.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by Groggy
Learner,
when a door is slammed shut onto a normal stopper near the end of a door there's roughly equal amounts of force applied to both the stopper and the hinges. With your hinge mounted stopper the stopper will act as the fulcrum point with the hinge as the load (think about lifting something very heavy with a crow bar). This will exert a huge amount of force onto the hinge.
I'm a carpenter by trade and have fitted literally hundreds of doors. Sometimes they need a bit of finessing to get all the margins the same. Often you spring the hinges to make this happen. You grab a punch and sit it between the two leaves of the hinge and gently close the door onto it. This bends the hinge so it sits out from the frame a bit more at that point. If you get over enthusiastic doing this the hinge will bend enough that the door will foul up on the opposite jamb. Your stopper will act in much the same way.
You've obviously made up your mind to fit the things, so don't let us stop you. Just slam the door a few times straight after you fit it - just to prove us wrong. Be sure to post your experiences, preferably with photographic documentation.:q
Mick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Groggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Learner,
I think you'll find that New Zealand is not part of Australia (yet).
Mick
I encountered those self stopping hinges in the US ages ago. They are only suitable for light weight doors under 15 kg and you have to fix the hinges with 40 mm screws. In the US you can buy heavy hinges with the device or something similiar already fitted. But in a slam swinging situation the device fails regularly.
A normal jamb or floor fixed door stop positioned closer to the door frame would do the job better.
c'mon doogie, don't t spoil the banter with facts!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Doogie
cheers
michael
I would agree with all the comments.
Which ever way you look at it there will be load on the screws.
At the end of the day, if you can locate the stops locally, for the price I'd give them a go.
The worst case is they'll punch a hole [maybe] in a hollow core or pull the hinge screws.
I think you'll find that the door will eventually end up jambing on the latch side.
Hmmm... looking at those, what's to stop you from simply mounting a block of wood to either the door or architrave, maybe with a rubber bumper? If mounted at top and bottom of the door, there'd be no problem with punching holes in hollow core.
It'd look no worse than any of those mechanical contrivances and could be mounted/constructed so that it pulled out of the door/arch. instead of stressing the hinges, in a "slam" situation.
Once hinge screws have pulled free, there are only two real options: drill, plug and rescrew - which I've found isn't as strong as "virgin" screw-holes, or replacing the jamb. Personally, I reckon doing the same repairs to an architrave is easier and maybe cheaper, especially if you go for the replacement option.
If you carefully study and examine specifications of kitchen cabinet door hinges you will notice that the hinges limit the maximum angle of door opening to just slightly more than 90 degrees
90 Degree Hinge : A hinge that only allows a door to open 90 degrees or perpendicular to the cabinets. Think of a quarter of a pie. These hinges are for mounting on flush-fitting surfaces. They can be used on a section of cabinetry that is recessed beside a wall, an appliance or other cabinets that protrude out further.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Learner
Your standard "euro" type hinge opens to 110 degrees, however this is limited by the hinge itself so doesn't impose the same type of loads. The doors are also a whole lot lighter. If you try slamming a kitchen door open a few times you'll most likely reef the door off its hinges though.
Mick
True its weak. I have seen 90 degree "euro" versions besides the 110 degree "euro" versionsQuote:
Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
I was a bunnies this arvo and they sell jamb mounted door stops which do exactly the same job.