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having slept on it it would be easier to use thinner laminates so you ar not fighting the laminate when bending. I would stick to thicnesses less than ten mm possibly 6mm - the less resistance when you bend would make a better laminate and the extra time would be compensated for by the easier working and less resistance to bending.
Unless you fill your laminations up with waterproof glue of some sort they'll end up holding water and rotting. Trust me, a rolled steel ledger will be cheap(ish) and quick.
Mick
I agree with you about the rolled steel being cheap(ish) and quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
I thought most epoxys were water proof and as it works with ship hulls in a marine environment I would have thought it was ok. Rot is as much problem as rust. Certainly that way in ships - it all depends on the protective finish.
The epoxy is certainly waterproof, but even if you're paying yourself a pittance per hour to make up this laminated timber ledger the steel one will work out way cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pusser
Mick
I still agree with you Journeyman.
Why not just bolt some vertical bits of 70x45 treated pine to the wall and sit your joist on those.
Thanks for all the useful advice everyone: guess the ball's in my court now! So realistically it'll come down to time (making a laminated ledger, fastening joists individually) vs cost (getting a curved angle made - and hoping it fits my measurements!).
Nice simple strong method :2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by thebuildingsurv
If you want to get it done before the man in the red suit descends your chimney, better call a few metal bashers tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive McF
This time of year is hectic and the final stage (galvanising) you only have about a week left to get the piece in for dipping. If you get it made in car or ute length sections, you can do the legwork yourself between fabricators and galvanisers - this could be the difference between having it ready to bolt up on 21st December, vs being ready to bolt up in early February...
Regards, Adam.
Sound advice: I never plan to get anything finished in time for Christmas, unless I start in Feb. And sometimes not even then...
Thinking about the vertical TP idea, presumably I'd need to make sure the upward-facing end grain was well sealed/covered since it'll get the worst of the weather?
u could do that and also put a bit of malthoid on top.
I'm about to embark on a similar project. Clive, did you get to complete your decking? Can you pass on any tips?
My garden perimeter is 5x5m. 2 sides of the square are set out with a raised flower beds with curved wavey walls both convex and concave. one side is flush against the house and one side is flush against a wall. I want the deck at 45 degress from the house and want to deck right up to the curvey walls of the flower beds.
Question: Do I fix ledgers to all sides of the decking perimeter including a curved ledger as discussed here?
Many thanks
Bolt a bearer to the wall on the parrallel wall. Run joists on top of the bearers perpendicular to one wall and bolt the other joist parallel to the other side of wall. Run one joist 45 to the curve. Then infill with trimmer joists in the curve to the wall.
Plan B. Build sleeper wall below deck to joist height. Run joists to top of sleeper wall as per above.
Thanks,
Just to confirm, please can you refer to this flickr link and repost your reply referencing A, B, C or D in the diagram. http://www.flickr.com/photos/25378405@N07/2391118337/.
Many thanks