Food-safe finish for jarraj chopping board

Thanks guys and gals for all the advice. I decided to go for the no-finish finish. The photos show the result. I also refurbished the old pine chopping board, which had gone black at the ends (mould?).

I think the search technology on this board (!) could be improved a bit (google?).

Searches for historical consensus won't necessarily yield good advice, as this thread has shown, trends can change with time.

Incidentally, the jarrah board is two pieces edge jointed with aquadere polyurethane glue.

Zen

Have made quite a few cuttind boards and my latest design is to route 2 or 3 rebates across the bottom at rt angles to the joints and insert and glue usually jarrah strips close fitting ie tap into place this stops the board bowing and gives greater strength



Rgds
Russell

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashore

Zen
Have made quite a few cuttind boards and my latest design is to route 2 or 3 rebates across the bottom at rt angles to the joints and insert and glue usually jarrah strips close fitting ie tap into place this stops the board bowing and gives greater strength

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Russell: an interesting idea. Wouldn't have thought strength would be an issue though. As for bowing, I planed the bottoms of mine slightly hollow to make sure the boards contact the (assumed flat) surface at its edges.

Does sideways expansion and contraction of the your boards affect the glue joint between the board and the strips at right angles?

My next board might incorporate a decorative strip in a contrasting timber of similar hardness (tassie oak?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zenwood

Russell: an interesting idea. Wouldn't have thought strength would be an issue though. As for bowing, I planed the bottoms of mine slightly hollow to make sure the boards contact the (assumed flat) surface at its edges.

Does sideways expansion and contraction of the your boards affect the glue joint between the board and the strips at right angles?

My next board might incorporate a decorative strip in a contrasting timber of similar hardness (tassie oak?)

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Haven't had any problems with expansion contraction
Have tried harder wood strips across the top of cypress t & g boards but the softer boards wear quicker on the cutting surface, didn't work well

A lot of my boards were to order to cover sinks and needed strenghting I felt rather than boards to rest on flat surfaces

Also made some special large ones for rolling dough and felt they would be better with strengtheners

You must also allow for my training where everything is over designed by a factor of 4 at least

another seller was to make small 6 " square trivits to match , people used these as cheese boards or to put hot pots etc on and as you threw them in for nothing (theres no such thing as a free lunch ) knew thew had gotten a bargain , the spruke sells better than the goods most times.



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