Timber Flooring Options, on top or rip it?

Hi,

Need some advice and comments on pros and cons of installing new 19mm flooring on top of existing timber flooring. :confused:

Existing setup is 130mm baltic pine on B&J in original part of the house. Tongue / groves have cracked in few areas and some minor gaps (1 to 2mm) but not visible. Newer part of the house have 80mm pine top nailed T&G broads . No creeping sound anywhere. Subfloor ventilation is good.

My original plan was to remove existing flooring and install new 19mm turpentine flooring (19mm).

After observing experts comments on another thread, I have to rethink my options ;) .

My questions is, Should I remove the existing boards or install the new ones on top? Appearance wise 80mm secret nailing boards or 130mm top nailing boards?

All skirting, doors (expect the front and back) are off so its now or never :p .

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Theva

just wondering if there will be a step if you do lay the boards on top.....

Theva;

A reputable floor layer should be able to answer your question re: laying over an existing floor (should be OK IMHO) as well as having a display or at least photos of finished floors in various cover sizes.

Since you've read that other thread on T&G groove flooring you'll understand my non-committal answer!;)

Best of Luck;
Rus.

just an added thought too .... if you are applying an overlay floor, you won't need it to be 19mm

Seriph1,

There will not be any steps expect at the front & back doors at the door sill, may be I can cover it with some trims. We do not like the thinner overlay type pre-finish flooring, so 19mm hardwood is the go.

Rus,

I am more worried about getting it nailed through existing boards, it should hold on to the old hardwood joists. Do I have to get the old boards sanded to improve levelling and gluing etc etc..

Some of the areas were covered with cork tiles on underlay. The old staples or some of them are still there :eek: .

Regards,

Theva

heya

There are full timber, unfinished overlay floorboards available in a wide range of materials..... I too am no fan of all the "new" overlays - these look and feel exactly like flooring, yet are cheaper. A previous client of mine makes it here in Melbourne and they have a yard or office in Sydney/Alexandria though I am not sure if they sell it from there - feel free to call them in Melbourne on 1300 887 588 to find out..... there are quite a few other places that make/sell it. Re your trims - I am not a fan of trims for floors but sometimes it is just what we have to do ..... there are ways of making them very nice though - sing out if you want to talk further abt that

Cheers

G'day Theva.
You can leave the existing floor and Glue and secret nail over it or pull it up and lay the new floor to the B&J.
If you lay it over the old floor, try to run the boards at 90 deg to the existing floor. Use BOSTIK Ultraset glue or SIKAFLEX glue. secret nail the Turp 80mm.
The old floor will act as a moisture barrier. If the old floor is in good condition and not squeaking, nail to it. You might want to get it level sanded first.

You can lay the 80mm in the same direction as the existing floor. However, you will need to glue & Secret nail using longer nails or better yet, use longer staples so as to pick up the joists under the existing floor.
Also, if you are going to do the job yourself, Go to the Timber Queensland website and D/load the TRADAC data sheet pertaining to laying a timber floor over an existing timber floor. http://www.tradac.org.au
Or PM me and I can email it to you.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor

Grafton

If it was me, I'd rip the old one out. You're going to have to cut down all your doors and do something with the thresholds of your external entries. Not to mention that you'll be transmitting any problems in the old floor through to the new one. Was the floor laid before the frame was erected? That might be the decider...

I'd imagine you could probably get some cash for the old flooring too.

Old floor out, new floor in, agreed. :D

Trevor,

I am a bit reluctant to rely on the holding ability of existing boards, so nails / staples should reach joists. It seems that turps comes in 80mm only, 130mm is a bit hard to get around here. More searching …

Darren & Marc,

Boards in the older part of the house are at least 50 years old. The rest, say 30 years. So, as they say, when in doubt don’t do it.

I will stick to the original plan, better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks guys,


Regards,

Theva

G'day Theva.
Turp is not as common as it once was. We only supply Turp in 60 or 80mm cover width.

If you decide to remove the existing floor, No worries.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Trevor,

I got samples of 80mm turps (probably from your mob, largest operation in Grafton - not hard to guess), still looking for 130mm. It appears that another mill around SilentC's part of the world supply them, waiting for confirmation.

Regards,

Theva

G'day Theva.
Make sure that you would be getting Turp. Some places will supply Northern Box as Turp. N/Box is crap.

Hooroo
Etc etc etc

Northern Box???? what the h%ll would that be in us "old timey" terms before the industry marketing gurus renamed it Trev? ;)

Bruce C.

Trevor,

I have seen some so called Northern Box, only in 80/90mm decking, nothing in wider boards. The samples I have are too dark to pass as turps. Local timber yard guys have no idea about its species / origin either.

Is turps commonly available around Coffs?

E.maculata, Should it be C :D ?

Regards,

Theva