Durable finish on Jarrah desk

Hello All,

Currently working on my second wood-working project - a study desk / table in Jarrah which is near completion. Since the table is coming quite upto my expectations, I would prefer to provide the best possible finish that meets its requirements as under ...
- provide a hard / scratch-resistant surface (since my kids too will be sometimes using the table),
- bring out the natural character / beauty of Jarrah, and
- offer a durable / long-lasting finish (without need for frequent rejuvenations, if possible)

As a novice in finishing, I am not sure which medium will suit my application. I am debating between the following possibilities :
* 2-pack polyurethane (like Estapol 7008)
* Organoil / Tungoil
* Danish Oil
* Cabot's CRYSTAL CLEAR (water-based clear lacquer)

Could the experts / experienced at this forum please give tips / feedback / suggestions, alongwith suggested procedures (which gap-filler, sandpaper-grits, application methods, etcetera). I have also heard of Ubeaut products like EEE, Hard Shellac and would like feedback about these products as well. It would be good to get comparative advantages / disadvantages of each medium. Meanwhile, I have just ordered my copy of the 'Polisher's Handbook'.

Ciao -

- Youvee

I did my first few pieces in poly U... before migrating to oils.

I wandered into the brisbane working with wood show a few weeks ago, and grabbed some white shellac and a copy of neil's book. Since then i've decided that shellac is the greatest thing for finishing wood.

Almost as easy as oil to put on, finishes simliar to poly U except generally prettier. oil is a great finish dont get me wrong, but its not a strong finish, and it will need to be reoiled every now and again. I use organ oil for ornamental things that wont require a hard finish.

Stay clear of cabot's "clear" range I have had nothing but mediocre to shocking results. Their gel clear range is the worst finish I have ever used.

For your desk i'd recommend white shellac with a hard shellac top coat. Sand down to at least 400 with an orbital sander or 600 by hand. Apply with a good artists brush (i think the one recommended to me was a expensive camel hair brush from an art supply store with something like 2000 bristles - called an "artists mop")

I agree that shellac is a lovely finish. I put it on with a pad (tightly cruched up cloth) after it's been diluted to around 50%. Makes it much easier and is frre of any brush marks that way. After a few coats, a light sand with 88, I give it a couple of coats of Traditional Wax. I have a jarrah box like that and it looks magic. I doubt that it would stand up to being a desk top though. Maybe lots of coats of thinned down hard shellac would do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gumby

After a few coats, a light sand with 88, lots of coats of thinned down hard shellac would do it.

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ooops, I meant 800 :) , bloody typos again...........sheesh !

hard shellac is meant to be as durable as poly u isn't it?

Well, lets say more durable than normal shellac but I wouldn't think it will cop the beating poly can. Especially on a desk, it will get a beating.

Hi M-R and Gumby,

Thanks for the quick replies. I am tempted to give Shellac (1 base coat of normal unhardened Shellac + many coats of Hard Shellac) a try.

One practical concern ... since I would like to have the best of both qualities - the durability of Polyurethane and the natural / non-plastic feel of Shellac (or oils), is there a way of achieving both ? Would any other additional top coat help ?

Being a study desk to be used by all in the family (including the kids) on a daily basis, it will need to take quite a lot of beating. At the same time, being a desk in as beautiful a wood as Jarrah and having spent last so many week-ends & week-day evenings toiling over it for the finer details, it needs to be completed with the best possible finish.Any way out ? All tips welcome / appreciated.

By the way, how hard really is Hard Shellac ? How much beating can it cop ?Is it scratch-proof ? Can it withstand (without showing) normal handling and sliding / shifting of things over itself ?

Ciao -

- Youvee

I guess its a little subjective.

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/hardshell.htm

from whats said there....

Quote:

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a finish that was as easy to use as shellac but with the durability of polyurethane?

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I guess that says it all really

UV,

First, nothing is kid-proof.

Best of both worlds – mmm.., ammm, check next to hen’s teeth ;) .

You may have to choose between a hard finish which will last longer and difficult to repair or a soft one which is easy to repair such as just a touch-up with shellac.

Best thing for proposed application is two part poly or NC lacquer then some burnishing / sanding and a few coats of hard shellac followed by EEE polish.

I guess, this is as close as it gets to the best of both worlds.


Regards,

Theva

Youvee

I have used Rustin's Danish Oil on Jarrah desktops (and then finished with wax), and this has produced a natural looking, low lustre and very durable finish.

I have also recently begun using Shellac (so far just the Blond variety), finished with Traditional Wax, and this too has produced a tough, but more glossy finish.

Danish oil appears to darken the timber while shellac does not. In my limited experience, I have so far found both to be easy to repair.

Six of one and half-a-dozen of the other. I think that it comes down to the "look" you want to achieve.

Regards from Perth

Derek