When to use steel wool

I notice there are differing views on using steel wool on timber.

Neil (administrator) has said it is for use on metal and should not be used on wood.

However, the Ubeaut site and other contributors say don't use it on raw wood..... implying it is okay when the wood is not raw....... while there has been much discussion about using it to finish timber.

I understand the reason for raw wood - with steel wool being caught in the fibre and becoming rusty etc.

However if you are going to use steel wool, at what point is wood no longer raw? :confused:

For example, after applying a sanding sealer?? (can I use steel wool to get a smooth finish?)

Or is it after applying the stain over the sanding sealer?

Or after/during applying say - Danish Oil? (using steel wool instead of 400 W&D to apply)

I have used both at the last step and can't tell the difference in finish, but the steel wool seems to work better for longer than the wet & dry.... although I am worried about gouging and still catch strands in the slivers on the edge of the timber.

Now days there really is no need to use steel wool at all. The synthetic alternative is just as good if not better in some use's. Everyone is going to have there own opinion but when there is alternatives to use that do not have the side effects apprant with steelwool, whats the point!

Cheers!

You should get Neil's Polisher's Handbook. I've just used it to apply some Traditional wax over a few coats of shellac. He has a few options in the book to obtain different finishes with all the products but as it says DONT USE ON RAW TIMBER

what are the alternatives to steel wool?

Walk into any trade paint shop or automotive paint refinishing supply shop and have a look.

Quote:

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You should get Neil's Polisher's Handbook. I've just used it to apply some Traditional wax over a few coats of shellac.

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Funny man. :D

I was waiting for somebody to pick it up ??

Maybe too deep for some :D

You see I recentlyasked the question "how do i apply shellac successfully" and was told to use The handbook. Now all the pages are stuck together !! :D :D :D

I swear by steel wool when doing my my shellac work.

What I do is put 3 coats of shellac on (swirl, across, down) then do the steel wool and methylated spirits.

I repeat this 3 times, let it gas off, then a coat or two of urethane to protect it.

It took a lot of trial and error to get it right, but for polishing steel wool and some good rags are all I use.

Works fine on new pine, as well as previously french polished wood.

The stuff gets caught in any cracks or sap lines; if your timber is not fully dry and has a high tannin content (like oak) it can stain the timber.

I have used it to cut back sanding sealer when finishing turned bowls within the conditions above, but 1000 - 1200 grit wet and dry works just as well. Pull your strip across an edge several times to make it more flexible.

Ern

I have used steel wool in the past, but has been mentioned, there are problems on raw timber. The rust (under shellac) from steel fibres is only part. When you hit some gum or naturally resinous wood in particular it will stain and often leaves dark marks on lighter timber.
I now use the Scotchbrite pads. They last, are easy to clean, easier to use and reduce the problems of steel wool. Just used it on a piece with jarrah, Vic ash and cypress pine. Very pleased. Steel wool is ok on some sealed stuff if used carefully.

I use 0000 steel wool to increase the gloss level of lacqure, I use Mirrotone 3210/30 lacqure which is 30% gloss or satin. To increase the gloss level all you have to do is break down the first coat with 0000 steel wool and you have 65 - 75 % gloss. From then on the more coats rubbed back with 4-0 steel wool the glossier it gets.
As was stated in other posts it's a bastard to use on raw timber, better off to sand to 400 + grit first.