Canberra Deck, photos up - help need with nails

Hi all,

have been reading this forum for a while now but this is my first post.

Started building our first deck - what a great help this site has been. I have have posted up two photos which are a couple of weeks old ( I will post up more soon ). As you can see it's going to be a low lying deck.

I am actually almost ready to lay the decking ( Merbau ).

I am hoping that some people might be able to post up some photos of their deck using SS screws as fastensers - I have been looking at nails and screws but I really really don't like the look of screws ( I think the head is too big ). Hoping to see some photos of finshed decks.

Otherwise what nails would be best to use? Titadecks? I have a friend who used nails out of a nail-gun ( cause they like the look of them) pre-drilled and hammed in by hand - what do you think of this option?

Why not hire the nail gun?

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Originally Posted by Pusser

Why not hire the nail gun?

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I have heard bad things about nail guns - I would perfer to pre-drill as well, I don't mind taking my time.

I have put down several decks in the life of my present home and have used nails each time. So far have shyed away from nail guns for decking. Pre drill and nail is my opinion, does not take long if you have a couple of people. Finish looks great, well thats my opinion. Use a string line to ensure that the nails are in a straight line. Hope this helps. :2tsup:

regards

colind123

anyone recommend what type of nail going into TP?

Pre drill and then use galvanised dome headed twist nails, sometimes called 'Timberlok' twist nails.

Like this;

Attachment 66985

Pre drill the shank size through the timber, drive them home level with the surface of the board. They WONT pull out :2tsup:.

Do which ever you prefer but as to the photo's i will leave it to you to tell me which ones are screwed as i think up close screws loo better but overall they aren't noticed...

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...mad/home-1.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...woodwork-3.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...rup-7Small.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ckmerbau-5.jpg

The top one is nailed with 65mm titadeck galv nails the rest are screwed with stainless 50mm type 17 sq drive counter sunk screws ... Not trim heads


cheers utemad

I am interested in the reasons for screwing any deck, other than timber to steel :?.

I use a MAX CN565 coil nailer it has has driven thousands of nails never had a problem with it what are the bad thing youv'e heard about nail guns, most likely operater missuse

Quote:

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Originally Posted by China

I use a MAX CN565 coil nailer it has has driven thousands of nails never had a problem with it what are the bad thing youv'e heard about nail guns, most likely operater missuse

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Without a dobut :)

I've been using Deklok hidden fasteners for the last couple of years with great results- no visible nails, standard gaps, almost impossible for boards to lift. The new version (I think they're called stealth) are available through Tymlock in queanbeyan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dazzler

I am interested in the reasons for screwing any deck, other than timber to steel :?.

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Better appearance
No popped nails
boards don't lift up off the joists
Can remove boards for access to plumbing etc below deck or if you damage one
Flush or sunken finish versus the raised head or a dome nail

Cheers utemad

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dermot

I've been using Deklok hidden fasteners for the last couple of years with great results- no visible nails, standard gaps, almost impossible for boards to lift. The new version (I think they're called stealth) are available through Tymlock in queanbeyan

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What do you do in regards to the variation in board width which is up to 3mm... Are you doing this for yourself or customers? If for customers how do you compete in a market that is flooded with bodgy trades using the fastenings

cheers utemad

These are jobs for customers- to whom it has been explained that the finer finish entails extra work. I haven't had too much trouble with varying timber widths and if I did I would have picked it up by measuring and adjusting every 5 or 6 lines -leaving one end not as fully embedded as the other- though this hasn't been necessary so far using TP, merbau,mixed reds or recycled black butt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dermot

These are jobs for customers- to whom it has been explained that the finer finish entails extra work. I haven't had too much trouble with varying timber widths and if I did I would have picked it up by measuring and adjusting every 5 or 6 lines -leaving one end not as fully embedded as the other- though this hasn't been necessary so far using TP, merbau,mixed reds or recycled black butt.

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Just curious ...would a treated pine customer go for the hidden deck fixings over say hardwood and some sort of top fixing at a similar end cost? Seeing as treated decking is a base level product for a base level consumer

The board width i was referring to is when the deck is wide with end to end joins and discrepency in board width..


cheers utemad