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I am just curious as to how kitchen appliances such as washing machines etc are attached over here. In the UK it is normal to have a fused switch above the cooking surface which swithces the power to a socket under the benchtop (whcih has no other switch on it), this is where the appliance is plugged in.
I assume it will be different over here and was just wondering what the normal method is over here.
Cheers
Not sure about current standards but in the past electric stoves have been hard wired (no plug) with a switch on the wall above the stove to isolate it. All other appliances I have ever seen connect via a standard wall socket. I think fridges are supposed to be on a dedicated 15 amp circuit, but not sure how often that is actually done.
In my house, the electric oven is connected via a dedicated 15 amp wall socket. The gas cooktop plugs into a standard 10 amp socket on a circuit containing several other sockets. Likewise the dishwasher, washing machine and drier.
So i quess the thing to do is simply put a socket in teh back of the adjoining cupboard and plug it in there to hide the connection.
Depends on the situation and the appliance. There are regs regarding location of power points near hot things and wet things. Your sparky will know.
Washing machine, dishwasher, fridge etc. go into a standard powerpoint. No fuses, just at the main switchboard. Electric stoves and ovens can be plugged into a 15 amp powerpoint on it's own circuit or hardwired. If hardwired they now require a switch above the bench.Quote:
Originally Posted by benp
Quote:
Originally Posted by zelig
Thats intersting, is funny how things differ. Hidden sockets in teh cupboard it is then!
cheers for the info buddy:2tsup:
When did this one come in? Is it Australia wide? I had an oven installed maybe 2 months ago but I don't have this switch, however I haven;'t checked to see if it has a 15amp socket behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by zelig
Yes it is Australia wide. It is a regulation in the current AS3000. (4.3.11)
The switch on an outlet qualifies as an isolation point.
Some years ago special purpose outlets were designed and approved for use especially for stoves and ovens. This came about because builders were having the stoves hard wired and they were being stolen before the new owners could move in. They developed the outlets and gained approval for their use so that the appliances could be stored securely elswhere and wiring completed and tested. Then 5 mins before hand over the stove was wheeled into position and plugged in. These stove/oven outlets have a current rating of 25 and 30 amps to cater for larger all in one stoves.
Benp: Check the full load current of the appliance before having anything installed. Although your electrician should check the FLC before starting.
That's interesting. The oven definately has it's own circuit and breaker at the new switchboard ... I'm just not sure if there is an isolation switch in between, however I'm not too fussed ... the breaker will serve this purpose if required.
I was told it needed a switch if hard wired. Don't most of them come with a plug these days?
Benp, just another thing you may not be aware of - a big difference between Australia and the UK is that it is illegal to do your own wiring. You must hire an electrician to make any changes to fixed wiring in your house.
So does mine. It's on a 15 amp circuit with a breaker at the switch board. The oven itself is connected via a 15 amp wall socket, which has a switch. It is accessible through the cupboard underneath.Quote:
The oven definately has it's own circuit and breaker at the new switchboard
Thanks for the info folks! Important to know, considering I am about to build what I reckon will be the mother of all kitchens, with more appliance than you could poke a burnt stick at.
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Originally Posted by silentC
Yeah i have come accross this, a real pain. Although they were startign to bring this legislation into place in the UK too, although you could still do your own work just had to get it ticked off! The annoying thing is i have re-wired houses before no worries but guess i should behave and get someone in! The cooker needs re-doing and thats 3 phase so prob wouldn`t touch that anyhow!
Actually about 3 phase supply, if its a 40A breaker at the distribution board does that mean that each phase trips at 40A. The reason I ask is that we are having seperate oven and electric cooktop, if i remember right the cooktop and oven are both around 8kW which is about 33A each.
Now if each phase does trip at 40A then no upgrades are required to the wiring and distribution board (it is 6mm2 wiring to current cooker), which saves me money, yay!!!:D