Log framing

Hi all...Some advice please...
I'm building a summer kitchen using some logs from an old house. (squared at about 25 x 20cm )
Thinking of making simple frames with the logs. ((flat, back sloping roof, about 2m inside height at the front, sloping down to 1.60m at the back)
The whole thing will only be about 7m long and 2.5 wide...

What I was wondering, is how many frames?? 4 enough?? (2.5m gap, then 1m, then 3.5m) Or do I need to stick another one in the "long" end?? (see attachments.)

One end will be closed and weatherboarded with windows (2.5m x 2.5m) and the other end will be open with a table height wall on three sides (3.5m x 2.5m)
(This is all happening on a small island... we've got a 5m Buster and an outboard as transport so it has to be a really basic, simple solution ...)

Thanks... any suggestions will be appreciated... I repair stringed instruments and woodturn to make a living (among other things) but the nearest I've got to building was a making a caravan for my horse to pull...:U (many years ago...) So I havn't got a clue really...





http://http://www.rod.4felts.com/image1/framingdim.jpg

I'd be making your frames on the other plane...not end to end but front to back. And given the size of your timbers you probably only need three sets of posts - either end and the middle.

So make your front (high) wall with three posts and a top rail, same for the shorter back wall. Then place your roof logs over the top to tie the front and back together.

I presume the lower logs are to support some sort of flooring? If so then fit them on the inside of the posts/wall to protect them and the floor from the weather.

Make sure you cross brace the end walls and each half of the roof with metal strapping or heavy fencing wire in an X formation before fitting walls and roofing material.

Thanks SBD... seems to make sense...
But... would it mean using a full length beam (7m) for the top rail?? (roof needs to overhang by about 80cm... so I guess that would mean 8.6m in total?)
Or, if not, how do you suggest I joint it??
(keeping in mind we have to float all the timber across to the island behind the Buster, then carry it up to the site... 7m long might get a bit awkward)

What are your reasons for building the frames in that direction?? Is it so the roof beams have a shorter span??
If I go with the longways rails would I need a central rail to give extra support to the roof beams? (if I use say, 6x2's... they would be about 4.2m long on a 2.5m span...)
The roof will be planked and then felted...
During the winter we get up to 60cm of snow which, when it gets wet in the spring, would be the equivalent of at least a couple of Toyotas parked on the roof....:o:o

If I used logs for the main roof beams I guess 5 would be enough... I suppose the ideal thing is to build a roof "frame" from logs on the ground and then just drop it onto the posts... By the way, this is free standing... The ends of the posts will just be standing on rocks...

Yep, the lower beams are for the floors, want a 50cm wide "deck"??(shelf??) all the way around...

(we got a chain saw and hand tools (no 'leccie... so no routers, morticers, chopsaws etc... not even an power screwdriver!!) an' no money for a gennie, prefab joists, plates and brackets... It's all got to be wood.... We've got a few dead, standing pines and spruce on the site if we really need an extra log or two but hand converting a tree to a usable log takes a bit of time and effort with an axe and an adze....:no:)

Thanks for the input... I need it...
Cheers

...Or, if not, how do you suggest I joint it?? Halving joint over the middle post...cut a 200mm long chunk and 50% of the width of the logs out of each log, overlap and then bolt together....then use steel strap to fix the lot to the post.

What are your reasons for building the frames in that direction?? Is it so the roof beams have a shorter span?? Yes

If I go with the longways rails would I need a central rail to give extra support to the roof beams? (if I use say, 6x2's... they would be about 4.2m long on a 2.5m span...)
The roof will be planked and then felted...
During the winter we get up to 60cm of snow which, when it gets wet in the spring, would be the equivalent of at least a couple of Toyotas parked on the roof....:o:o
If you use 6x2's (or log equivalent) then keep the centres close say 300 to 400mm between each rafter...

If I used logs for the main roof beams I guess 5 would be enough... I suppose the ideal thing is to build a roof "frame" from logs on the ground and then just drop it onto the posts... By the way, this is free standing... The ends of the posts will just be standing on rocks...given you don't seem to have a crane I don't think building the roof frame on the ground is wise....fit them one at a time to the completed lower frame....far easier to handle

Yep, the lower beams are for the floors, want a 50cm wide "deck"??(shelf??) all the way around...

(we got a chain saw and hand tools (no 'leccie... so no routers, morticers, chopsaws etc... not even an power screwdriver!!) an' no money for a gennie, prefab joists, plates and brackets... It's all got to be wood.... We've got a few dead, standing pines and spruce on the site if we really need an extra log or two but hand converting a tree to a usable log takes a bit of time and effort with an axe and an adze....:no:)

Thanks for the input... I need it...
Cheers
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...Or, if not, how do you suggest I joint it?? Halving joint over the middle post...cut a 200mm long chunk and 50&#37; of the width of the logs out of each log, overlap and then bolt together....then use steel strap to fix the lot to the post.

What are your reasons for building the frames in that direction?? Is it so the roof beams have a shorter span?? Yes

If I go with the longways rails would I need a central rail to give extra support to the roof beams? (if I use say, 6x2's... they would be about 4.2m long on a 2.5m span...)
The roof will be planked and then felted...
During the winter we get up to 60cm of snow which, when it gets wet in the spring, would be the equivalent of at least a couple of Toyotas parked on the roof....:o:o
If you use 6x2's (or log equivalent) then keep the centres close say 300 to 400mm between each rafter...

If I used logs for the main roof beams I guess 5 would be enough... I suppose the ideal thing is to build a roof "frame" from logs on the ground and then just drop it onto the posts... By the way, this is free standing... The ends of the posts will just be standing on rocks...given you don't seem to have a crane I don't think building the roof frame on the ground is wise....fit them one at a time to the completed lower frame....far easier to handle