When building a stud partition wall ...

Hi,

SWMBO has decreed the seperation of a room into two using a 'normal wall'.:doh:
I've flicked through the site and got the general idea on interior stud walls. The plan is to use 3x1.5 at 450 centres, but, and here comes the dumb questions:

Do you need to remove the plaster from the existing wall (that the new wall will 'T' intersect), or the ceiling to attach the first stud and top plate? or do you screw through the existing plaster into a stud/joist?

On a similar line, do you need to remove the carpet from under the sole plate?

If the intersecting wall doesn't have a stud where you want the new wall to butt up, do you have to cut away some plaster and add one?

I have guessed answers but I thought I might get some expert (experianced) help.

Thank you in advance.

You can use studs at 600 centers, if you like ( 450 is better - and required for wet areas.

Yes remove carpet from the floor. Fix to concrete with dyna bolts.

Prefab wall on the ground, stand it up, screw through ceiling into top plate.

Add a stud in the adjoining wall. Make sure it is fixed to the top and bottom plate. You'll need to remove some gyprock and flush it again- you'll need to flush the new corners anyway so not much extra work.

You can go into an existing stud if you like but might not be where you need it. - I normally double stud ( two back to back) anyway for extra strength.

You dont have to remove the plaster... but I would recommend it, especially if your attaching too a stud wall already, it will make it much easier/stronger.

You dont have to remove the carpet... but please, for the sake of any future carpet removing... do it!! I have been the victim of somebody not removing the carpet and its a real hassle. Also, you probably want to remove it if your connecting it into the floor.

Finally, I would be adding a stud to connect too as it will definately be making it stronger.

Good luck with pleasing the boss... send us some photos of the finished job.

You don't need to remove plaster.
(unless you are putting a doorway in hard against the existing wall)

Just butt the new wall up to the adjoining wall.
Nail it to a noggin in the existing wall.
Screw or nail through the top plate of the new wall into the ceiling joists

Remove carpet under the bottom plate of the new wall.

I’m with echidna. Don’t make extra work for yourself. If there's no stud there, then just locate the noggins by tapping on the wall with your hammer. You'd only need one fixing in the middle. When you find one, test by driving a nail through to determine its exact location and thickness. Mark the centre and fix your stud there. If you can't find any noggins which is sometimes the case, then half way up the wall, cut a slot that will be covered by the new wall. Make the slot the same length as the distance between the studs. Slip your tape in the slot, and measure two noggins, one near the top of the slot, and one near the bottom Slip them in and knock them level. Skew fix them through the plasterboard and into the studs with some 100mm screws or a nail gun. Put some max bond on the new end stud before you press it against the old plasterboard. Screw the stud in with 100mm screws, or fix with a nail gun so you don’t bash the noggins loose. It will be solid as a rock.

You probably won't be able to build the wall on the floor and stand it up, with the skirting and cornice in place. I’d cut the cornice on a mitre in the appropriate place, and I’d cut a slot in the carpet, but I’d leave the skirting run through. Butt the new bottom plate into the skirting, and notch the stud over it if you have to.

If your ceiling joists run parallel to your new wall, and you’ve got nothing to fix to, you’ll have to get up in your roof to put a few noggins in. :p

thank you all for your advise, my excuses are quickly slipping away.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DaveInOz

my excuses are quickly slipping away.:)

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Ok here you go....

I wouldn't even attempt that... thats a really big job... the floor may not take the weight.:;

i haven't been on the forum for a while so I should check to see if the witch doctor has brewed any thing to finish plaster:D

You probably know this daveinoz, but if you have to trim the studs, set up a jig for your saw so they are the exact same length. In addition to this forum, another great resource is - "Residential timber-framed construction- Australian Standard". Its available at Tech Schools where they teach carpentry/joinery.
redheeler