Best finish for a pine Kitchen bench?

Hey my name is Andrew,
I have not built anything out of wood for a considerable period, therefor I am probably what you would refer to as an amateur, thus any help is much appreciated. I have a number of questions so please bear with me.
I am building a kitchen island bench, unfortunately I have small budget thus I am using pine. The bench top is a 35mm thick slab of pine, however because of the softness and highly porous nature of pine I would like advice regarding the best way to seal protect and hopefully harden the bench top (I also wish to stain the pine darker to perhaps an African mahogany colour).
My current thinking is this: It has been recommended that I use a dye mixed with a fungisheild to both achieve an even stain and protect the wood. I was then thinking that I would use organoil hard burnishing oil (basically tung oil but with a few extras and recommended for food prep surfaces) to harden and seal the surface. I am fairly convinced that this is a good method but what do you think?

Another process recommended to me is a clarithane clear polyurethane two pack sealer, however I don't like the sound of this as apparently it is a high gloss finish (I am aiming for a satin/matt finish) and it sounds more like a varnish that could chip?? is there something similar that has a matt/satin finish?

I appreciate any advice that is offered
Cheers Andy

You can seal it but you cant harden it. Poly 2pac is your best bet, it is available in low sheen and wont chip until it gets very old or had lots of sun/chemical exposure.
Staining, personaly I dont bother using any product to "evenout" the stain if its a dark oil based stain(common stain type under poly).
Sand your bench top no more than 180~220 grit with a random orbit sander then using the same grit following along with the grain by hand. Apply the stain using a brush(keep the stain well mixed...)then rub it in with a rag before it has time to dry using a circular motion, once it is even looking wipe off any excess along with the grain using a clean rag.
Wait at least 24hrs then apply the poly(48hrs is better in this colder weather), go lightly with a brush on your first coat otherwise the stain may "lift" leaving a mess.

Hint... practice on scrap 1st!

Cover it with laminex/formica etc.

I used Adeze on my kitchen bench ,

aside from normal wear and tear it looks fine after more than twenty years

been meaning to sand it back and do it again

try this site

I got my from the silverwater site

http://www.dgi.com.au/bench3.html

Andyp,
Pine should be sealed before staining as if it is not it will go blotchy because of hard and soft grain formation. Wouldn' t bother with fungishield as shellac will be an excellent seal. Wipe on a thinned coat of shellac and when dry rub back with 000 wire wool to a smooth surface. If you want to you can add another thinned coat. When staining after sealing, it is possible to mix the stain in the shellac. I have a book written by an English tradesman finisher yonks ago and that was his recommendation for staining. In another thread recently I included a WIP of a vanity unit I'm working on and the colour ( Feast Watson Red) was mixed with the shellac and gave a very even finish
I always apply shellac with a rubber as I find it so much more controllable than a brush. Properly charged with shellac mix, it's just a matter of squeezing the rubber to get more shellac onto the surface. I charge the rubber with a squeeze bottle squirting the shellac into the back of the rubber so I am sure the shellac has been filtered. Keep the rubber in a sealed glass or plastic container and it's always ready for use. No brush cleaning needed. As for what your final coat should be, there'll be plenty of good advice from others on this forum I'm sure

jerry

It needs to be hard wearing so go poly. I would not recommend shellac or oils.

Use Minwax Wipe-on Poly in the satin finish. It's available at Bunnings. Just sand down as already suggested, stain and then wipe on the Minwax. :wink:

the attached photo is done in gloss but satin is available too. That is spotted gum (floorboards). If you live in Melbourne I may have enough left for your bench top if you want it. Just let me know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gumby

the attached photo is done in gloss but satin is available too. That is spotted gum (floorboards). .

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Ripper bench top, but you need a new fridge. :rolleyes: :D :D

Thanks guys, will post the results in about a week..... if succesful :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gumby

the attached photo is done in gloss but satin is available too. That is spotted gum (floorboards).

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Grouse benchtop, have never considered mixing timber and laminate benches before, one to show SWMBO.:2tsup: