Laying Floorboards?

I've had a great deal of great advice in this forum, so thankyou everyone.

However, I'd like to ask another question.
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Floorboards…you can talk to 10 different people and get 10 different answers, so I want to confuse myself even more and ask for more advice!.
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I'm considering the idea of laying 80mm timber floorboards myself directly over the existing pine floorboards. The quotes I am getting are ranging from $30-50sqm for laying, so at 70sqm of flooring it adds up to a lot of saving if I do it myself.
My main question is whether this is a feasible DIY job, or should I just suck it up and get a professional in. I feel pretty comfortable with the idea, but at the back of my mind 5 grand worth of timber is a lot to stuff up.
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I'd appreciate any advice as to whether this is feasible, and perhaps any information for or against from those who have done it themselves. I apologise if this has been discussed at length in the past, but the search function didn’t really come up with what I need.

It is not rocket science. Just keep in mind the finishing details around the doors and aves etc. Secret nailing requires a lot more effort and is slower.

A nail gun and knee pads are a must.

Hey martin , I think it depends on what sort of job you do . If you have plenty of time to spare and you are a very handy person, then you can give it a try. (as rat said, hiring those prefessional tools is a must, then you have to remember the finish floroing DIYed by you normally can not compare with those professionals, whom have been doing this sort of job on everyday basis for a long period of time)
You also mentioned that you have exsiting pine floorboards, have they been coated it before ? The 80mm new floor which you didn;t mention in details, I guess it's 19mm strip flooring. If it is, which direction are you running the new floorboards on top of your old pine ( same or 90 degrees).
Honestly, I am not trying to confuse you again. :B

Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

Workforbuilders, the current pine boards are non finished, and I am running the new boards at 90degrees over the top. Using 19mm, but would prefer 12(all the timber yards have 12mm as more expensive!!).

I'll definately be paying someone to sand and finish, so it's more the laying that I am considering doing myself.

oh, that's a bit weird. Normally 12mm overlay is cheaper than 19mm strip.Good luck with the job!:2tsup:

Why go through all the drama and additional cost of purchasing and fixing hardwood overlay? When the Pine floor you already have can come up a treat for a fraction of the price.
Pine flooring tends to get a bad rap,true,it is softer than hardwood, but it's the coatings on top that provide the protection, durability and good looks, not the timber it's self.

So, at the end of the day, you can have an Ironbark floor coated in the finest two pack, or you can have a Pine floor coated in the finest two pack, either way, you still get the same degree of protection.

Worth thinking about.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/PineWithJarrah/photo#5023477855741338578"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/clintfudgefloorsanding/Rbb6foiA49I/AAAAAAAAHao/uc-83YHUzmI/s288/Randall%40Somers%20057.jpg" /></a>
RADIATA PINE WITH JARRAH INLAYS

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/PineFloor/photo#5012452870579982002"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/clintfudgefloorsanding/RY_PVCROjrI/AAAAAAAAFX4/RQ3fbvw2Nbs/s288/Floor%20Bernie%20Frawley%20020.jpg" /></a>
OLD RADIATA PINE

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/PineBeingStained/photo#5012606127898012162"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/clintfudgefloorsanding/RZBatyROqgI/AAAAAAAAGN0/FD4MySgqO4o/s288/Craigie%20road%20floor%20001.jpg" /></a>
DIRECT STAIN ON RADIATA PINE

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/PineBeingStained/photo#5012606162257750562"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/image/clintfudgefloorsanding/RZBavyROqiI/AAAAAAAAGOE/amGD3uLoBmc/s288/Cragieroadfloor0043%20%288%29.jpg" /></a>
FINAL COAT OF TWO PACK OVER STAINED PINE

I have some old (93 years) wide hoop pine floor boards with a fair amount of bora damage to boot. I would really love to be able to keep the old timber, I am however worried that harder finishes might result in the boards binding/sticking together.

Hi dusty, it looks like you stain the same as i do. Do you pop the grain before you apply the stain ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrissyBrew

I have some old (93 years) wide hoop pine floor boards with a fair amount of bora damage to boot. I would really love to be able to keep the old timber, I am however worried that harder finishes might result in the boards binding/sticking together.

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By all means get your boards sanded and finished. Edge bonding/binding should not be a problem.

At that age they should look magnificent.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Larry McCully

Hi dusty, it looks like you stain the same as i do. Do you pop the grain before you apply the stain ?

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By pop the grain, I'm guessing you lightly wet it down and then cut back the raised grain with maybe a screen or fine paper prior to staining?

No I don't. Or at least up till now haven't. I've thought about it a few times, but usually by the time I get to staining I've had a gut full of sanding and just want to get on with it.

Is it worth it? Does it make a noticable difference? If so, I might give it some serious consideration on the next stain job.

I just did a stain job three or four weeks ago where the required colour was a sort of a purple, almost eggplant type of colour. If your interested I can post some pictures of it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dusty

By all means get your boards sanded and finished. Edge bonding/binding should not be a problem.

At that age they should look magnificent.

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I am definatley going to get the boards sanded and finished. I guess a few questions about finishes are still outstanding.

I have read that Araucaria (hoop pine) flors that are not fully enclosed it is necessary to seal the lower surface of the floor boards to protect against attack from the Queensland Pine Beetle. The surface treatment should be skin forming. I have however had couple terminite management people say they can just spray the boards with a specific insectiside. However the sealer also reduces the effects from rapid weather changes. I am however enclosing downstairs but will still leave and air flow along the joists for sub floor ventilatoin.

Now on to finishes
My understanding is high resistent finishes are basically polyurethane solvent based products and that with these hard wearing finishes the chance of edge bonding increases. My boards 145mm wide and I am worried about the effects of edge bonding. I have read that the chance of edge bonding maybe reduced if an appropriate sealer is used. Anybody have any idea about these sealers products and how successful/useful they are.

Other finishes such as water based polyurethane solutions are also used not as tough as solvent based finishes but less likely to edge bond the boards.

Bora holes I would like to fill with a clear epoxy.

I just did a stain job three or four weeks ago where the required colour was a sort of a purple, almost eggplant type of colour. If your interested I can post some pictures of it.[/quote] Yes please.


I noticed your 8" vinco. I used to have a 12". Now I have 12" supper Hummel Belt. Lightning fast and powerfull and no chatter to cut out, yippee. But i still use disc on polyvac to flatten .then 150screen/180

Somewhat OT I know, but ArtMartin, could you please add your actual location? It helps when folks are wishing to recommend or advise on suitable suppliers etc. I know I havent got Kilmore in my signature, but that's because many people have no idea where that is if theyre not from Victoria (or not avid punters apparently) - in tact I will take my own advice and have a look at tyhe sig area in My Profile and see if I can add Kilmore to it! anyway, just a thought ...... and no offence intended

have fun!