Kitchen fabrication questions

I've started on my kitchen a while back, I have made all the carcases already keeping them all the same size(except the draws and some slide out cabs)there are 5 of them, 16mm HMR chip 787H x 900W x 595D(external).
Im a bit unsure on setting the hinges I have or weather they are suitable, they are
LAMA CLIP-ON FULL COVER HINGE
110 ° Openning SCREW ON 0mm CRANK
The doors I want to be thicker than the standard 18mm preferably around 22mm thick
1. Will this affect the hinges operation?
2. Will the doors hit each other between the separate cabs?
3. Will I need to increase the height of the clip on plate with shims to compensate?
Id really like to keep the thickness otherwise I'll be wasting a lot of wood thicknessing them down.
Not a good thing considering the amount of hassle I've been thru to get the wood this thick... its my old floor boards(1950's baltic pine)they had been polished before leaving them very uneven, so after machining them up I was left with a 15~10mm thickness so I laminated them together(takin me weeks of work... 4 visits to the sharpeners and 10ltrs of PVA)to get around 25mm thick.

Now the bench top, I was thinking of using the old jarrah bearers and joists from the floor(4 rooms worth)and a heap I had laying around.
With 8mx650mm of bench space theres not enough to cover the whole top as solid wood and were kind attached to the idea of parquetry(spellun?).
Using a 25~32mm mdf substrate and machining the jarrah down to 30x120 strips for a 1:4 herringbone pattern at 10mm thick .
1. Would I need to "balance" it like we do when veneering to stop warpage, considering its not made of large pieces?
2. If so could I machine the jarrah thinner to counteract it and use the 32mm mdf?
3. I'll be using black tinted epoxy for gluing and gap filling, then finishing with 7008 any probs foreseeable with that?

Harry I am not familiar with that brand of hinge but given that most brands have similar specifications I would suggest that the answer is yes. Having a look at the Salice series 200 hinge (110 degree) specifications, the fitting table suggests that they will take a 16-26mm door. The thing that varies is the location of the cup from the edge of the door.

For example if you place the cup 3mm from the edge on your 22mm door, you will need to have 2.4mm of clearance (from the adjoining door or side panel) to be able to open the door. In addition the door will need to sit 0.8 mm off the carcass.

If you place the cup at 4mm from the edge, the clearance is 2.1mm but the door has to sit 1.4mm off the carcass.

If you place the cup at 5mm from the edge, the clearance is 2.1mm but the door has to sit 2.6mm off the carcass.

The above specs are based on a square edged door. If the edges are rounded the clearances are reduced. Best thing to do is experiment. For mine I would be using a 4mm offset.


For your benchtop. Most kitchen benchtops have unbalanced situations with only laminate on the top and front edge. That seems to work fine. The fact that the underside is hidden and protected from the temperature changes by being within a cupboard may have something to do with it.

What I would do is seal the bottom (I recently used West System for this recently) and then lay the parquetry using a flexible adhesive (call Hendersons for a good price on polyurethane adhesive). Seal the top and I dont think you would have any problems other than maintenance of a wooden top.

Hope that helps Harry.

Thanks mate, sets the mind at ease!
Sounds like I'll need to make some mock up doors from crapiarta, they will be plain square edges as the baltics heavy featured grain will do the talking, almost be shaker styled.
A artist's redition...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...70ish/door.jpg

Harry,
I wouldn't mock up a whole door, just use a bit of stock the same thickness as your doors, wide enough to take a hinge and the same length as your door width.

Mick

Yep I hear yer Mick, might just make up a pair of mockup outer stiles they'll hold together enough as they will be M&T'ed, just slip them together for a test fitting.